B18C Auto W/ p72-901 ECU BIG problems

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I would have used that, but the company that sent me the swap sent a OBD I engine and harness instead of an OBD II unit! I needed to use the OBD I ecu and I don't have the pinouts for this particular ecu!
 
rdomeck said:
I would have used that, but the company that sent me the swap sent a OBD I engine and harness instead of an OBD II unit! I needed to use the OBD I ecu and I don't have the pinouts for this particular ecu!
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then use the stock harness that came with the car and use a conversion harness to run the obd-1 ecu...

which ever of these you'll need Rywire - Online Store or Rywire - Online Store
 
i'm going through the whole process of putting an obd1 engine into an obd2 car. Heres what you need to do:

you have to use the same obd harness as the car is, in your case you need to use an obd2 harness on the engine. This is because the chassis harnesses are different in obd2 cars than obd1 cars. you cant plug an obd1 engine harness into an obd2 chassis harness. The engine may have came obd1 but you can put an obd2 harness on it. You need to either swap out for an obd2 alternator, or do what i did and splice in the obd1 alternator plug on the obd2 harness.

Next you either need to put in some obd2 injectors, or just splice in your obd1 injector connectors to the obd2 harness (this is what i did).

For the ecu, just save yourself tons of trouble and buy an obd2 to obd1 conversion harness to run your obd1 ecu. you can get them from rywire.com like someone suggested.

I suggest the same for the dizzy. you need to keep an obd1 dizzy on there, because the crank position sensor is built into the obd1 dizzy, on obd2 cars they are in the oil pump, so that wont work. Just buy a dizzy conversion harness from rywire like i did.

There will be an open plug on the harness for where the crank position sensor normally plugs into, this is fine, jsut leave it. Since you are on an obd1 ecu and motor, the crank position sensor is in the obd1 dizzy, so the ecu doesn't look for it at that plug, just leave it.

If you want to use an obd2 ecu, you need to swap out your obd1 dizzy for an obd2 dizzy, and swap the oil pump out for one off an obd2 engine that has the crank position sensor in it.

It was a big nightmare for me as i figured all of this out the hard way but take my advice and learn from my mistakes!!!






I learned all of this from this awesome writeup on honda-tech:

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1972711&postid=31092261



Hope i helped you!!

(for those wondering, im in the process of putting a d16z6 into my 00 civic ex coupe).

Let me know if you have any more questions!!
 
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Ok, this is an Auto ECU that no one has the pinouts for! It is a P72-901. Because of this I won't be able to purchase any adapter harness that will plug and play!

What I need is to know what Auto ECU would be the best to use and I will get the harness that matches that ecu! Does anyone know what would be the better Auto ECU to use with a B18C? I am capable of doing any wiring that I need to do so long as I can get the pinout diagram of the ECU! Thanks to all of those trying to help me out!
 
rdomeck said:
Ok, this is an Auto ECU that no one has the pinouts for! It is a P72-901. Because of this I won't be able to purchase any adapter harness that will plug and play!
Click to expand...
YES YOU CAN!!! I LINKED YOU TO THEM!!! Click on the links in my last post...
 
rdomeck said:
Ok, this is an Auto ECU that no one has the pinouts for! It is a P72-901. Because of this I won't be able to purchase any adapter harness that will plug and play!

What I need is to know what Auto ECU would be the best to use and I will get the harness that matches that ecu! Does anyone know what would be the better Auto ECU to use with a B18C? I am capable of doing any wiring that I need to do so long as I can get the pinout diagram of the ECU! Thanks to all of those trying to help me out!
Click to expand...
rywire.com has automatic ecu conversion harnesses....just take a look please...
 
solution

this guy KATMAN@FF-SQUAD.COM answered all my questions and even sells pre made harnesses to do exactly what you want ( trust me had the same problem)and if you dont want him to do it you want to do it yourself then go to his site . : FF-SQUAD.COM [v.2] : . and all the pinouts are there ( not always that easy to find but there) hope this helps I know how it is sometimes
 
I am certainly on the way to making this thing right. The pinouts have most everything working. I still have not found were to hook up the shift lock to the control unit. I think I will just do a relay to make it unlock when you hit the brake pedal. I like every thing to work correctly. I still have a check engine light, but I will hook a scanner up to it tonight and see what it tells me. The color codes for the pinout's were close, but not perfect. I followed the pin location and everything seems to work. The other weird thing is that I have the D4 light on on the dash when you first turn the key on and the full pump runs for 2-3 seconds. After starting it doesn't come on with the fuel pump. Weird, but how often do you set with the ignition on without it running? If you know of anyone needing help with ones of these swaps I would be glad to share, as it was a complete pain for me.
 
rdomeck said:
I am certainly on the way to making this thing right. The pinouts have most everything working. I still have not found were to hook up the shift lock to the control unit. I think I will just do a relay to make it unlock when you hit the brake pedal. I like every thing to work correctly. I still have a check engine light, but I will hook a scanner up to it tonight and see what it tells me. The color codes for the pinout's were close, but not perfect. I followed the pin location and everything seems to work. The other weird thing is that I have the D4 light on on the dash when you first turn the key on and the full pump runs for 2-3 seconds. After starting it doesn't come on with the fuel pump. Weird, but how often do you set with the ignition on without it running? If you know of anyone needing help with ones of these swaps I would be glad to share, as it was a complete pain for me.
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Honestly, it wouldn't have been so painful since the time of my last post if you would have just listened to me. I told you rywire makes an AUTOMATIC Obd-2a and obd2b to OBD-1 jumper harness. Just swap as you would any engine swap, get the jumper harness, done...
 
I have been on every web site that any of you have mentioned. None of them had the info that I needed or sold a jumper harness. The engine harness that came with the car was different in every way from the one with the engine. The engine one was part of the dash harness that had to be cut loose from it and wired into my current dash harness. I appreciate all the help from this web site, but please if you haven't tried this swap then you just don't know what I was going through. If anyone wants to try this swap I will be glad to share the info that I learned with them. I won't try and show someone that they are wrong, I will just give HELPFUL info and let them decide if that info is helpful. Sorry for the bad tone here, but this information was not listed on any web site that any of you directed me too! I do like the way the car run's. A lot of top end, but if I had it to do again I would rebuild the D-series with a little bit more power and not had to deal with all this. I belive that this swap probably cost me around $4000. $2000 for the engine and trans and another $2000 for all the stuff assiociated with it. Timing belt, water pump, bigger brakes, larger exhaust, A/C bracket, Etc. And this is with making my own mounts and doing my own wiring. I believe I could have built a D-series with a decent amount of power for less than that. Live and Learn......
 
you're supposed to use the harness that came with the car and modify it accordingly to your needs. you don't use the harness that comes with the engine. that's where your problem started. take the car harness and put it on the new engine, if some plugs don't reach, lengthen the wires. if some sensors and/or plugs are non-existent, you wire them in to the correct pin slot on/at the ecu plugs. plug the jumper harness in, plug the computer in and you're good to go. I'm not trying to give you a hard time, just pointing out that this is a much easier swap than you made it out to be but you said it best, 'live and learn...'

Enjoy the new ride :thumbsup:

a2ato1.jpg


a2bto1.jpg
 
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If Only

Any of these sites that have been posted for me to look at did not carry a conversion harness for the P72-901 ECU. I tried this to begin with before doing any wiring. Everyone that I ask just laughed. I even talked with Katman at ff-squad and his comment was ( Oh you have that dreaded ECU.) This conversion harness that everyone speaks of does not exsist for this ecu, I have tried for 4 months to get one! When I couldn't I started with the engine harness because it had more than half of the wires hooked up between the engine and ECU already........
 
10,000 miles and going strong. Still don't think the swap was worth it....but it is a lot more fun to drive and it has enough power to haul my family and all of our stuff. I should have just bought a bigger Acura something and been a lot happier. Don't do a swap like this unless you are in love with the car you have!
 
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