B18C idles like crap and dies at stop lights

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did you ever figure out the problem? I'm having a similar one. any info on success would be great!
 
No, the problem has not been resolved. I replaced the Bosch +4 platinum plugs with Denso Iridiums and it didn't resolve the problem. I then replaced the O2 sensor because the car runs almost as bad as it did when the O2 sensor went bad last time. I replaced the Bosch O2 sensor with a brand new Denso sensor. The problem still existed. I then tested the fuel pressure and found that i am only getting about 37-38 PSI where the B18C should be getting about 40-47 PSI(or least that's what I have read). I told a few trustworthy friends about my most recent finding and both of them said that a 2 PSI defecit shouldn't cause this big of a problem unless it is happening at full throttle. Well, it doesn't. The car actually runs pretty good at full throttle. So instead of spending $60 bucks on a new adjustable fuel pressure regulator (that PROBABLY wouldn't fix the problem), I bought a new distributor cap and rotor from Napa for $50.I did this mainly because it seems like a misfire issue and with having new iridium spark plugs and new MSD wires, i figured I should finally replace the distributor cap and rotor that came w/ the engine 5 years ago. So as I was taking off the dist cap, the bottom bolt snapped off in the dist housing. I set the cap aside and proceeded to remove the rotor. Well, the rotor set screw stripped out under the pressure of my phillips screw driver. So I had to cut it w/ a cut off wheel on my dremel and back it out with a flat screwdriver. I got that out today and am going to attempt the dist cap screw that broke off in the housing tomorrow. Wish me luck. Anyone have suggestions for getting it out? There is about 3/8" of the bolt sticking out, but i cant get a set of vice grips on it because the radiator hoses are in the way on the bottom and the distributor internals are in the way on the top. I am really gonna be pissed if I have to drain the rediator so I can remove the hoses that are in my way, but I think thats what i will have to do. You got suggestions, please throw them my way. Thanks, Matt
 
after you get the distributor issue fixed,sounds funny but check your voltage at idle,ELD has been giving alot of people the same issues,even me.LOW voltage at idle will cause the car to run like shit.loots of people have been throwing lots of money at this very problem with no positive results.keep posting,between all of us here at HS we'll get you going
 
Okay, here is the latest: I drained the radiator and flushed the coolant system so I could remove the hoses to have more access to the broken bolt (radiator hasn't been flushed since i put the motor in so it was well past overdue). Side note real quick: I highly advise routine maintenance after all this shit I've gone through on this car. Maybe if I had been a little better at maintaining everything, I wouldn't have all the problems that I do. Thats right, I am admitting that I have been a fool. Back to the story: with the hoses removed, I was able to get vice grips on the bolt and lock them, but was still unable to turn the damn thing. So I tried the dremmel trick on it (cut it so I could get a flat screwdriver on it and back it out), well...that didn't work either. So I had to drill the bolt out, which i did. I drilled a single hole in it and increased the drill bit size 2 more times. Each time shaving away a little more broken bolt. I used a punch and a hammer to try and get the rest of the bolt out of the way, but broke the distributor housing. It broke right where the bolt screws into the housing so now I can only attach 2 of the 3 bolts to the dist cap.

I put the new rotor on, followed by the new cap and wouldn't you know it, Napa sold me the wrong dist cap. The one they gave me was only about half the diameter of the cap bolt off, but it was too narrow. I took it back and they asked if the engine was a DOHC or if it has VTEC. I said both....cuz it does. Anyone else had this question asked of their motors? Any who, they didn't have the other one so I went to pep boys and they had it. I took it home, installed the new cap (using only 2 of the 3 new bolts), drove the car for about 15 minutes and it didn't misfire once. Usually, it acts really bad within the first minute of driving it down the road. That being said, I am cautiously optimistic that I fixed the issue. I will have a better idea when I get a day off work and the weather cooperates. Where is the ELD at and what does it do? I have said it before and will say it again, I don't know a whole lot about diagnosing driveability problems, but I am trying to learn. I am pretty much on my own when it comes to fixing my car, so I REALLY appreciate any and all help I get from you guys. Thanks again, Matt
 
PS - why the hell is the thermostat that Napa sold me so much smaller than the one that I took out of the car? It is the same diameter, but the spring isn't nearly as thick and the basket seems much thinner and not as strong.
 
Forget my question about the ELD, I had some downtime here at work so I did some research. Hopefullt the cap and rotor were the issue.
 
Okay guys, I had the weekend off and though it was cold, there was no snow on the ground. I drove the Civic everywhere this week and found that I did fix the dying/misfire/backfire/spitting/sputtering problem. Only one time did the car still not run perfect. I started the car, put it in reverse, started backing out of my parking spot and the RPM's dropped to about 250-500 and then the car died. I restarted it, proceeded to back up again, and it died again. After that, no more problems. Any thoughts on what this low RPM issue is about?
 
could be any number of things=main relay acting up,low voltage,air in the cooling system affects the iac operation,low fuel pressure can also be a culprit.start checking the basics and your maintenance records should be documented to keep up with what has been done as not to redo things
 
I just read the thread for first time.....after all you checked....I would think about main relay too.....or at least listen to hear for the clicks of the main relay working properly....or not. Sucks about the bolts on the dizzy.....try to tap it out and re-thread it. Make sure you get all the shavings out afterward.
 
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