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b18c or b20 block

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by killer teg, Mar 8, 2011.

  1. killer teg

    killer teg New Member

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    hey there guys,

    ive got a integra b16a gen 2 i want more whp but i wanna keep it n/a,does a b20 block bolt into same engine mounts? and bolt up to head stock head?
    also can i use stock tanny to power it?

    thanks guys;)
     
  2. ls vtec teg

    ls vtec teg New Member

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    b20b vtec I think will have more torque and hp bout b18c safer
     
  3. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    b20 uses the same mounts
    yes you can use the same transmission
    it will be a bolt in swap with the exception of routing for an oil line for the VTEC head (b20 block is not setup for it so you must run an external line)
     
  4. Jswike

    Jswike New Member

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    Not to mention the rod to stroke on a crvtec is horrendous. So it's not meant for high revs. And the valve reliefs on the b20 pistons aren't deep enuf to run vtec at max cam lift. So it's a matter of how much money you want to spend and how fast you want to go. B20vtec is better log term power ability. Poor mans type r is a cheaper swap with good results.
     
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  5. Oliver0192

    Oliver0192 New Member

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    what would be a start to a list of things need to be replaced on a stock b20b engine to hold a decent amount of turbo boost
     
  6. Jswike

    Jswike New Member

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    Block is rated to about 300 hp stock. Define fair amount of boost. 14 lbs? 7? 21? I think turbos are only necessary for extreme drag cars. Cuz you can get a daily driver pumping 300 (b20vtec) without a turbo. But you need new pistons to fit the valve reliefs for vtec. New rods that can handle the high revs (aka make vtec worth it). Oem crank will do I hear. Some arp head studs. The pistons I'd get from endyn. Theoldone.com. I'd go with 12 to 1 compression. Now you can run Pump gas. Not wreck fuel mileage, and go fast as balls. Of course new bearings and rings... After that you can do the top end, which leaves tons of room for hp. Cams, headwork, valves. And if that still isn't fast enuf... You can always add nitrous. But that'll require a tuned Ecu. If you insist on a turbo, lower ur compression. If you don't want to spend 1500 rebuilding bottom end.... Go gsr or type r.
     
  7. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator VIP

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    according to who?

    without knowing the turbo, the psi alone is worthless information... as larger turbos that move more CFM will be pushing a lot more air at any given psi
    and even then without the static compression of the engine itself those numbers are still useless


    show me one... link?? i have yet to see a NA B20VTEC running 300hp in a daily driven configuration


    have fun blowing up your engine... Larry Widmer is a scam and bullshit artist... if you need more evidence to back up my claim feel free to search around this forum or anywhere else on the internet... fuck him and fuck his products... you couldnt pay me to run his garbage


    whens that supercharger coming out again?????? its been coming soon for at least 12 years now... the only thing more vaporware than that supercharger is Duke Nukem Forever


    oh because a built, cam'd B20VTEC with 12:1 compression wont need a tuned ECU???




    please just stop........ please
     
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  8. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    So I was reading Jswike's post, and thinking about how I was going to dissect it and address all of the BS and mistakes, and then I scrolled down a bit more, and saw that E had already posted pretty much exactly what I was going to post.

    So :thumbsup: to E, and :owned: to Jswike...
     
  9. Jswike

    Jswike New Member

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    300 crank. Not wheel. I'm pretty sure that's achievable. I haven't run endyn shit yet, I was duped by false advertisement. Nonetheless b20vtec with N2O option is more than enough for a pump gas DD. Perhaps instead of just dissecting my mistakes, you should offer correct research with proper documentation. or at least advice. And reputable local shops say roughly 300 crank. Running stock Ecu what is reasonable compression? Say obd1 p72. And I admit I'm no turbo specialist by anymeans... So I apologize. Maybe offer an idea to the man, ask him what you need to know... Help. Idk seems like that's the point of the site and all
     
  10. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    I didn't get to finish the head on mine. :( Torque curve on the bottom end was definitely trending towards making 300hp crank though if I had ever finished the top. :( :( :(

    Have had bad experiences in the past myself, but one of my good buddies at work just had his head (S2000) done by Endyn, and it was extremely well done. Who knows.

    :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

    :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

    Mine wouldn't even idle.

    It is, but we try to make sure the right information gets out to our members. Misinformation bad. While what you posted isn't bad to start with, there has been more up to date and accurate information living on this forum for quite some time.

    Keep on posting though, and definitely keep on reading.

    :thumbsup:
     
  11. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    So this is what I would recommend:

    If you want to just stuff an engine in and leave it alone without modding anything inside: B18C (more power stock)

    If you want to stuff an engine in and rebuild it all motor but not go too crazy: B20/VTEC (great power with pistons/rods and mild cams)

    If you're going to go all out and spend a ton of money on the block, get the B18C. You'll have the girdle from the factory, oil squirters if you stick with the stock bore or get pistons that are notched for them at higher bores, VTEC set up from the factory... and if you resleeve, you'll have the same bore options as the B20.

    My first block was a B20 with a B16 head, and it made awesome power. The next two I built were based on the B18C, but with the longer stroke crank. They displaced more than the B20/VTEC setup and made more torque too- but the block had a nice Golden Eagle sleeve in it to bump the bore out way beyond what would be considered to be safe on a stock B20 sleeve.

    By the way, the rod/stroke ratio on the B18A/B and B20 is 1.54:1, the B18C is only 1.58:1. It's not significantly better. You can spin the B20 bottom end out to 8000-9000 if you have your parts chosen correctly. It's not a big deal. Now, all the engines I have in the current cars (and truck) are 1.8:1+, so I can have LOADS of fun.

    :D
     
  12. Oliver0192

    Oliver0192 New Member

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    well that helps alot i might have to rethink my opitions and maybe go with a vtec head
     
  13. Oliver0192

    Oliver0192 New Member

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    but how difficult is it to switch heads
     
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