b18c swap wont start

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couple pictures for fun

here's a couple pics of my swap.... doesn't solve the problem but hey why not.
 

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afternoon update....

I pulled the injectors out cleaned them real well, cleaned all the connections real well, got rid of code 16.

I wired in an IAT sensor i happened to have from and old swap got rid of code 10 just in case it matters.

I am not throughing a check engine light at all now. Car still won't start.

Anyone else have any ideas at all for me?
 
could be a grounding issue, make sure you double check all your ground wires are connectec esp the one near the thermostat housing. Also check the ground wires to make sure there isn't an open in the wire.
 
I had the same problem with practically the same swap. I checked everything sparkplugs, injectors... and all the basic things. I was also getting the code 16 so I looked up a wire diagram of the injector system. That black and yellow wire went to the alternator. Hope that gets it going for you. Btw how did you wire the motor and ecu?
I used the jdm ecu that came with the motor and then reworked and rewired the jdm harness also. I was painstaking to splice every single wire between the ecu to the harness, but I like a challenge.
 
Fixed it! It starts!!

I didn't have switched 12 volts going to the injectors, that plug i was talking about needed a cap on it to power all of the wires......so dumb. But it works now!

In response to my setup, i'm running a chipped p28, and an older obd1 harness. I had to make my own vtec sub harness and a couple other changes to it like wire the obd2 dizzy plug on, the alt plug and a couple other plugs extended.

Its running really well now, i let the engine come all the way up to temp and it sounds purty.

when i had the head pulled to get it rebuilt i added in new valve guides, new springs, and new retainers....should i allow it to go through a break in period? i would assume so anyone have any exp with that?
 
As far as a break-in, my suggestion would be to not let the engine stay at any one rpm for a long period of driving but still keep the rpms mild no reason to push things to the limit right off the bat....
For example if you are going down the highway change from 5th gear down to 4th while maintaing the same speed. Just change things up every once in a while. Do the same kind of thing in town. Also after you get some miles on the parts when acclerating short shift some times and other times let each gear pop the vtec on. I don't know the exact reasoning behind all of this. But its what an eperienced mechainic told me about breaking things in. I'm sure others will have some good suggestions as well.
 
Okay well thats an interesting article, i didn't rebuild the bottom end of the engine though, just the head, i understand that the piston rings and what not need to be broken in, i was just wodering if the valve springs and retainers and what not need time to "sit" properly or whatever.

Anyhow i have only let the car run for a little while with out giving it much throtle to just make checks that everything is running properly.

Today i should be making my appointment with the state patrol for inspection. Hope i get in soon. Anyone have much experience with car inspections?
 
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