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B18C type-R swap

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by SLAZER, Sep 20, 2008.

  1. SLAZER

    SLAZER VTEC obsessed

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    into a 98 civic ex coupe.

    okay so this is like MY first swap. (i'm having a friend of mine who has done over 100 B, K, and H series swaps helping me though :D.)

    what i have so far is the following:

    Engine/Transmission
    - JDM Type R Block
    - Golden Eagle block guard
    - Eagle connecting rods (H-beam)
    - JE 9:1 pistons with JE rings, block bored .020” over
    - ARP main studs
    - ARP head studs
    - ARP rod bolts
    - OEM water pump, oil pump, timing belt
    - Cylinder head is all OEM, rebuilt with new valve seals 5k miles ago
    - Magnecore sparkplug wires & MSD external coil
    - USDM GSR transmission run only with Honda brand fluid
    - Clutchmasters stage 3 clutch
    - OEM flywheel
    - Exhaust with catalytic converter and muffler for emissions
    - axles (stock)
    - shift linkage
    - motor mounts

    Turbo system:
    - Garrett T3/T4 turbo
    o .63 a/r exhaust
    o 57 trim compressor
    o Oil cooled
    - All Aeroquip fittings (oil feed (-4) and return (-12) )
    - All stainless fasteners
    - Exhaust manifold bolts converted to studs
    - Log style turbo manifold
    o Port matched
    o TIG-welded mild steel
    o Symetrical wastegate exit
    o Wastegate dumps to atmosphere (not piped into exhaust)
    - In-car adjustable boost pressure (6psi and up)
    - Resolution adjustable
    -Varies how many psi 1 turn will add
    - Mandrel bent charge piping, 2.25”
    - Tube & fin intercooler measures 9” x 20” x 3”
    o 2.5” outlet with re-welded 2.25” inlet
    -Inlet relocated for charge pipe volume reduction
    -“back door” setup
    - 300zx blow off valve with recirculation
    - 3” mandrel bent intake
    - Genuine K&N air filter
    - 3” into 2.5” downpipe, stud-type connection to turbine
    o Downpipe has 3” dump with block-off plate
    o 2.5” section goes under engine to connect with exhaust for emissions
    - RC 550cc injectors

    Tuning
    - Uberdata ecu with OBD-II to OBD-I conversion harness
    - 3 Chips
    - Several different tunes including one to pass emissions
    - Moates.net chip burner with usb cord
    - Software for burner

    Now then. Is there anything else anyone can think of that i would need to complete this swap, or any advice for me before i start it?

    If anyone wants me to post pictures of my progress i will. I'm probably gonna start around thursday or friday.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2008
  2. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    None. What ever swap you do, the end result should not have a check engine light...
     
  3. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    x2

    words right outta my mouth
     
  4. SLAZER

    SLAZER VTEC obsessed

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    bump for advice. :)
     
  5. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    Few things, why did you get a type r motor just to end up building it? You could have saved some money and just got a GSR motor...

    Ditch the block guard. Go with OEM spark plug wires. Ditch the OEM flywheel. You're upgrading everything else anyway, why not get at lighter flywheel. The type R flywheel that should have came with your motor is good but lighter is better in terms of flywheels. Get some energy suspension inserts for your mounts, the power you're trying to put out will gernade the stock mounts in a few months.

    Oh, also get rid of the catalytic converter. It's gonna rob you of tons of power. Sure it'll help you pass the emissions part, but the turbo kit ain't gonna pass the visual...

    Also, you have this 'friend' who's done '100's' of swaps and shit, he's helping you, why are you asking us for advice? Are you not confident in his knowledge?
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2008
  6. LightWeightChamp

    LightWeightChamp Honda FTW!

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    +2 on ditching block gaurd

    reaserch would of shown you alot more harm then good comes from those
     
  7. SLAZER

    SLAZER VTEC obsessed

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    alright well thanks for the advice, ill think about it. and i just like to get more than one opinion at times, you know? i never said i don't trust him.
     
  8. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    I hear ya. I was just wondering. Didn't know if you kinda felt like his knowledge wasn't enough to help your build.
     
  9. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    +1 on the block gaurd. Your better off without it. But, in its place, I would post the block.

    Im gunna say keep the stock flywheel. The reason is, with one your engine will return to idle much faster. On a boosted motor that could be enough to get you out of your power band between gears. The stock one will take longer to rev with, but once you get things turnin theyll try to stay in motion.

    It sounds like you already have the Type R block, otherwise Id say forget that and get somethin cheaper. Your aftermarket parts dont care what theyre in. If the block prep is good theyll perform the same.

    May wanna consider some different cams. GSR's are a popular choice for boost. At the very minimum I would get adjustable cam gears, so you can dial some overlap out of those cams.
     
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