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b18c1 block

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by Goldberg, Apr 7, 2004.

  1. Goldberg

    Goldberg Member

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    I plan on fully building a gsr block and putting a fully built b16 head on it. And i was wondering what red lines would be the most effiecient and safest for this setup. By fully built i mean all motor.
     
  2. kyleirwin

    kyleirwin Retired OG

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    why are you planning on using a b16 head? why not just use the gsr head? this thread sucks dude :p .
     
  3. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator VIP

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    :werd:


    fully built block???
    :unsure:
    fully built head???
    :unsure:
    what in the hell does that mean????
    :unsure:
    ohhhh.... by fully built you mean all motor
    :huh:
    nope.... still doesnt mean shit
    :shrug:
    if you want us to give you any kind of estimates or any insight on anything why dont you tell us what parts will be used when you "fully build" this engine

    what pistons
    what rods
    what sleeves
    what bolts
    what cams
    what valves
    what springs
    what retainers
    what timing belt
    what oil pump gear
    etc
    etc
    etc

    tell us EVERYTHING you plan on using in this "fully built" engine and we could probly give you estimates
     
  4. Goldberg

    Goldberg Member

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    Ok ok sorry, i just thought you guys didn't wanna hear the full shibang. I plan on using the b16 head of my engine b16a2 and purchasing a gsr block. The plan is to build the block while i have the car then once the block is done park the car and build the head and put them together. I plan on using and doing

    balance polish crank
    new bearings
    eagle rods
    JE pistons or something of that 12.5:1
    85 mm bore releeved
    itr oil pump
    gsr or sir water pump
    gsr timing belt
    skunk2 stage 2 cams
    skunk2 valves retainers etc
    skunk2 IM
    skunk2 cam gears
    port n polish
    apr head bolts etc
    probably run some sort vafc not sure yet
    bigger injectors
    upgraded fuel system

    I think thats what i got so far and what do you guys think is a 85 mm bore good to much or can i go more? Sorry bout the post before hope this helps a little bit mroe.Oh and i drive a 2000 civic Sir
     
  5. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator VIP

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    setup looks good

    for that extensive of a build i would really have to recomend a hondata for tuning
    the VAFC just wont do it justice

    you should be ok to rev them to wherever you need to to reach your peak HP
    im going to guess and say you will make peak HP around 9K

    get it put together and bring it to a dyno and have it all tuned
    then just look where your peak HP is and dont go much beyond that

    for instance if your peak HP is at 8700 then i would shift by 9k... there really isnt any reason to rev out much further than that
     
  6. B18Civic95

    B18Civic95 Member

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    With those Con-Rods and valve springs you could rev it up to the moon. But does'nt make sense doing that if your not making any peak hp?
     
  7. Goldberg

    Goldberg Member

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    Ok cool thanks guys. Also bout the whole ecu tuning thing. I was in there first place gonna d0o a crvtec or lsvtec and for all motor from the articles it seems as if vafcs and such with my ecu would be good enough to tune it. Do you really think i should run a hondata? Also would it be better just to sell my motor and just buy a gsr longblock?
     
  8. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator VIP

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    if you already have the stuff then you might as well keep it and work with what you have
     
  9. Import Builders

    Import Builders Senior Member

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    Go with some 11.8:1 IB Spec Wiseco's and Ultralite rods, and I bet you make 5-10 WHP more than with the eagle/JE combo. With less compression!

    Also, don't go 85 right away, go 84.5, then if you mess up later, you can go 85. You go 85 first, then nobody makes 85.5 and some sleeves can't bore past 85 safely.

    Also, there are way better options out there than Skunk 2 Valvetrain and retainers. Especially for the money.

    try the Golden eagle cam gears too, better than Skunk 2, more precise.

    Also, you don't need an upgraded fuel system, just like RC 310 injectors with a V-AFC or Hondata/fuel regulator.

    Your stock fuel pump can make almost 400 WHP.

    save your money on the cams, and get Crower Stage 3's instead.

    And if you followed my advice, and have an SMSP header, you can make up to 230 WHP on it.

    I got the recipe for good power down to a science. Starts with the pistons, ends with the header.

    Jeff
     
  10. Goldberg

    Goldberg Member

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    Cool but i am still looking at a pretty much daily driver i don't wanna get to crazy plus is a 85 mm bore on a b18 not max can't i go more if something does fuck up.
     
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