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B18c1 gsr into my 89 ef

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Zero2sixtyin3, Jan 25, 2010.

  1. Zero2sixtyin3

    Zero2sixtyin3 89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd

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    ok so i was going to do the h22 swap into my ef but decided against it because of the money and diffculty and because i came across a gsr motor for cheap.

    so here is where im at i have the bottom end. im selling the internals and the b20b head the guy gave me because he didnt want it anymore, and getting forged internals including crank, and having the block sleeved. my plan is to pick up a gsr head, would this be the best route for horsepower/simplicity or is there a diffeerent head i should be looking for? i am building the motor to handle a good turbo set up, looking to push around 300 whp.

    i dont need anyone coming on here spouting crap about what i should have done. this is what im doing, i am merely looking for help in what i should look for. and by that i mean in order to make this build easier.

    and also is there any issue with clearance in the engine bay? i know the h22 has that issue in my body style civic?

    im picking up the p28 and i will have it set up with hondata s300, getting my harness through rywire, axles are still undecided until i can find a good price for decent power handling ones. mounts i am up for advice on good ones, anything as good/better than hasport? probably gonna go with the gsr hydro tranny and a good clutch.

    so any answers to the questions asked would be appreciated. and any additional info or advice that might help me would also be greatly appreciated. thanks everyone and rep will be given too :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2010
  2. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Ok, go ahead and replace your crankshaft then. Even though the OEM one is forged from the factory.
     
  3. Zero2sixtyin3

    Zero2sixtyin3 89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd

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    im replacing the crank simply because the guy spun a bearing and decided to drive it anyways. i dont want to get it turned and then have oversized bearings put on and then turbo it. i dont know if that would be risky or not but i would rather not put the money into building it and have something happen because of the crank. make sense?
     
  4. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Yup, makes sense- but if you replace the crank, you're going to have to spec out all new bearings anyway... so it's really up to you if you want to machine your crank or get another one.
     
  5. Zero2sixtyin3

    Zero2sixtyin3 89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd

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    i was leaning towards a lightened crank, any cons to that? and is sleeving recommended if im gonna run around 300+ whp on the motor?
     
  6. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Other than vibration cancellation possibly screwing things up if it's not balanced correctly... no.

    Sleeving isn't necessary at that power level if you tune it well.
     
  7. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    I have been told that you cannot machine a Honda crank. Honda supposedly has a heat resistant coating on the crank and any grinding will ruin it. All you can do is micro-polish it....at least this is what a few shops have expressed to me. Not sure if a micro polish will take care of the spun bearing damage...especially if the guy rolled around with it for a while. Depends on the damage...I guess
     
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  8. Zero2sixtyin3

    Zero2sixtyin3 89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd

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    yea i think a new crank is the best bet. any ideas on how much power i can out out with stock internals just out of curiousity? and i mean reliable power on a low to medium boost level like 6 to 14 psi. nothing insane like 20+ psi. at least not until the block is sleeved :). i plan on sleeving because i want to have the room incase i want more power, safer in the long run i think.
     
  9. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    psi matters less than the size of your turbo. a t70 at 7psi will make like 600hp, and likely blow your motor up, whereas a t3/t4 will get you in your 300hp range at 7psi. a healthy B18C can handle 300hp easily with no modification except arp head studs.
     
  10. Zero2sixtyin3

    Zero2sixtyin3 89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd

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    ok so i am getting a nice tax return. so i am going to be buying the rest of the stuff for my engine. meaning harness, ecu, transmission, mounts, cable/hydro conversion, and then whatever else i end up needing.

    im picking up the head this weekend, needs a valve cover and intake manifold.

    eventually i will be getting the blox turbo cams unless i find some better and/or cheaper alternatives... i will be replacing the head with better valves, springs, retainers, valve guides and valve guide seals. not right away unless i need to.

    so i guess what i really need to know is what clutch? and whether or not i get a gsr header or do i need to do something different? i would think it would fit since its a little different than a b16 but still a b-series. and then i need to know what to go with in terms of an intake manifold, blox/skunk2 or OE manifold as well as throttle body?
     
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