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B18C1 to 5G Civ complete!

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by thr33niL, May 29, 2005.

  1. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    Well ...its running!

    Be that as it may, the work is apparently not over. <_<

    I still have two things that need attention. #1, the engine light is on for some unknown reason. I wired the KS, and IAB as instructed. The Vtec is kicking in nicely... soo, I am at a loss. I checked all the plug in sensors and its gravy on that end. Although Im not sure if the IAB is kicking in. I cant find it at the moment but there is another forum that has a video of the how the secondaries should open up. Mine doesnt seem to do it. BUT it is very strong through the RPM range. No complaints in the least. One thing that I have been thinking about is could it be the A/C? I pulled the compressor and unhooked the lines at one point thinking I had to use the compressor from the Integra. Anyway, I hooked it back up empty being that I havent had time to get it charged. Could that cause an engine light? I know there is a way to read the code but I havent had the time (or energy) to do that yet.

    #2 is the header. I bought a header made for a Type R since it has the longer collector that can mate up with the civic cat/exhaust. Well it doesnt quite fit right. The result was an EXTREME pain in the ass on the install. 4-1's are always fun but this one was more so. It kinks my exhaust a bit so its out of position resulting in part of the pipe banging against the frame in some low gear/throttle situations. Annoying as hell. On top of that, its a 2.5" collector that doesnt mate too well with a stock cat. Plus finding one of those pivoting gaskets was near impossible. Luckily the guy at Autozone was nice enough to let me rummage around in a few random boxes and I found a 2.5" gasket from some sort of GM rig that I ground down to fit. Anyone have any recommedations that doesnt involve going to a muffler shop? Been scowering eBay (again) to find something better. Regardless of these problems, it doesnt leak at all. My gerryrigged collector fiasco seems to be holding.

    Well thats it for now. I will take some pictures tomorrow when I get the car cleaned up. Kinda had a scare when I first started her up. Seemed like it was smoking at first! Then I remembered the motor had been sitting for 6-8 months so that might be the reason for an initial bit of smoke. I let it idle for about 5 minutes. Turned it off and let it cool down before checking all the fluid levels. After that, I got it on the road and ran it through the gears a few times and now it runs clean as a whistle. A couple first impressions I had was how it pulled in the higher gears. 3rd, 4th and 5th are killer! Another thing I notices is how low geared this sucker is. 60mph is about 3000rmp. In short, it is a complete breath of fresh air compared to my D16Z6. Pulls in every gear -- gotta love the torque!
     
  2. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    To pull your code, look under the passengerside above the kick panel, you'll see a plug like the green one, with acouple other plugs going into it. Remove the service connector, turn off the car, jump the connector as shown, turn key to ascessory, count blinks.

    [​IMG]

    Also, if you were turning it on before you finished wiring it, did you clear the codes? Remove the battery ground for a couple minutes, reinstall, they should be gone.
     
  3. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    That is VERY possible. I will do that tomorrow morning.

    I also learned that wiring the IAB would have been slightly easier when I had the motor OUT of the car. That was an SOB to get to and run clean wires. Guh.
     
  4. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    :huh:

    I may have wired my IAB wrong. I was under the impression that the IAB wiring needed to be reversed (black wire to 12v IGN and red wire to ground). THats how I wired it.

    But I just got this from the Lee over at ECUHacker.com..



    Luckily If thats the case, I used those pull apart connectors by the plug. I could just swap em. Could be the cause of my engine light.

    hmmm.
     
  5. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    Well that wasnt it. I wired it the opposite way and still no secondaries and check engine light is still burning bright.
     
  6. HatchSpeeD

    HatchSpeeD ...Hi...

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    Jump the service connector like stated above and pull the code.
     
  7. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    Just did this and the SRS light is flashing. Thats it. The check engine light is still just solid (no blinking).
     
  8. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    This is what is happenin.

    Please help! :unsure:
     
  9. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    ya I was gonna recommend that you need to clear the code and see if it comes back!
     
  10. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    yup.. did that.

    whenever I jump the plug the SRS just blinks (like the video). Disonnected the battery twice to clear the code and its the same. No idea what is going on...
     
  11. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Ok, does the one you are jumping have two, or three wires, and what color are they?

    Shoould look like this...

    [​IMG]
     
  12. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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  13. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    Could it be a problem with the ECU? This is a hacked computer from a OBD1 GSR. Could I plug my P28 back in or would that not prove anything?
     
  14. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Try it, worst that could happen is it's the same.
     
  15. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    Let me get something straight here.

    Exactly HOW is the IAB supposed to be wired? Now I have read something about OBD1 engines having a negative switch whilel teh OBD2s have a positive switch..??

    Am I supposed to just *red->pos+/black->neg-* or swap them because of the switch difference?

    So what I am looking for is what color wire goes to what off the IAB plug on a OBD2 motor running a OBD1 ECU.

    Frustration is about to set in.. lol
     
  16. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    GUH!

    Its not that my secondaries werent opening.. its that they are open ALL THE TIME. :blink:

    Now I am supposed to give it a postive 12v IGN switch.. right? Well I did and right when I turn my key.. the secondaries open up.. What the fluck is going on here.. lol

    I am not a wiring genius... If it isnt a stereo, I am retarded.

    please advise.. hehe
     
  17. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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  18. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    Found out my supposed OBD1 P72 is a hacked P28. Since I have had nothing but problems with it I found a JDM OBD1 P72... will it work for my USDM motor?
     
  19. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Yes, the JDM one will work.
     
  20. thr33niL

    thr33niL Member

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    Well after all the trials and wiring checks, engine lights etc... it was the freakin ECU the entire time!

    Got the JDM comp in today... plugged it in and.... wha laaa!

    No engine light and the secondaries FINALLY flippin work! Now to see if I can get my money back from Lee at ECUHacker.com. (stay tuned)

    One thing Ive noticed about the JDM ECU is that the revlimiter is like 7900 or 8000. Whats up with that? Anyway, still have some exhaust work ahead and would like to chip my revlimiter up a bit. Maybe take the speed limiter off if there is one on the JDMs.
     
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