b18c5: turbo or sc
- Thread starter bafbrian
- Start date
- Replies 30
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erebunicrx
my name is Dale
stock y8, stock fuel pump, 450 inj uberdata tune.
ThatGuy4life
The Riced Sleeper
I was gonna call him out to but figured i'd wait until someone who's been on longer do it
ThatGuy4life
The Riced Sleeper
:rotflmao:
Not to start a flame but when someone wants to call you out just say stock block and head. If you are running a turbo you have to have larger injectors if you are running more then a couple pounds of boost. If you want to look at it that way I closed the spark plug gap down so that means its not stock either....
MikeBergy
Blah blah blah....
He said stock. That typically means bottom end is stock, as in no forged internals. And lots of people run the stock rods, you just have to tune your engine correctly. Tuning is everything. No one that knows turbo hondas would ever NOT run some type of fuel management/ems.
SC's are not bad at all, and they offer torque right off the line. Turbos are good too, but there are a lot of ways to totally mismatch components on a turbokit, whereas SCs are pretty straightforward installs. I'd do both...twincharge, yeah!
SC's are not bad at all, and they offer torque right off the line. Turbos are good too, but there are a lot of ways to totally mismatch components on a turbokit, whereas SCs are pretty straightforward installs. I'd do both...twincharge, yeah!
bafbrian
New Member
Alright, go some more information on the block.
Found out the the block has some "nice" internals. Darton Sleeves bored to 84mm with JE 8:5:1 forged pistons, Manley Rods, and the Type R crank. Talked to my friend and and the guy who he got the block from. We meet up and he showed me the paperwork from when he got all the parts, work, and dyno done when he had the engine. The guy said he ran the motor at 14psi as a daily driver in a teg and never had a problem. Said he would up it to 20psi sometimes he went to the strip for a little racing.
But here is the problem, the guys who did the work on the engine for my friend out it together poorly. The head was not torqued down onto the block and as a result, the head was warped, the threads on the studs are all bent up. My friend got the head machined flat, so it is good. As for the studs, I figured I could get them taken out and either replaced or get some bigger ones put in and put the engine back together, what do you guys think ?
Found out the the block has some "nice" internals. Darton Sleeves bored to 84mm with JE 8:5:1 forged pistons, Manley Rods, and the Type R crank. Talked to my friend and and the guy who he got the block from. We meet up and he showed me the paperwork from when he got all the parts, work, and dyno done when he had the engine. The guy said he ran the motor at 14psi as a daily driver in a teg and never had a problem. Said he would up it to 20psi sometimes he went to the strip for a little racing.
But here is the problem, the guys who did the work on the engine for my friend out it together poorly. The head was not torqued down onto the block and as a result, the head was warped, the threads on the studs are all bent up. My friend got the head machined flat, so it is good. As for the studs, I figured I could get them taken out and either replaced or get some bigger ones put in and put the engine back together, what do you guys think ?