b18c5 type r swap into 1991 ef/dx civic hatch

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you have to notch the rear crossmember (dunno if thats the right word for it) but where the rear motor mount sits, you have to hammer that lip down in order for the rear mount to go in.
then you have to make a nice dent on the frame rail below the driver side strut tower, for the alternator.
never heard anything about the exhaust clearance, nor have i had a problem.

if you get a good set of mounts, i.e.: hasport or avid racing, or (i got) arizona race and machine. they come with instructions on the dents that need to be made.

if your going obd1 i think you need a obd1 o2 sensor, or are the obd2 ones the same? and a obd1 distributer.

basically have to convert your stock d series wire harness to obd1, then convert the engine to obd1 as well.

i dont think you need the obd2 to obd1 conversion harness.
i believe you need the following:
obd0 to obd1 ecu conversion harness, to plug obd1 computer in.
obd1 vtec distributer (gsr, or delsol vtec.)
obd0 to obd1 distributer conversion harness.
vtec wire harness. (easily can be made by yourself but if you buy the stuff off of rywire all three harnesses come together for 200.)
obd1 02 sensor.



i believe thats right, somebody please correct me if im wrong.
 
i do believe the crossmember needs to be notched where the header goes down..but im not 100% sure...also doesnt the chassis where the crank pulley is..need to be dented to clear the pulley(or just get rid of ac/ps) and get the plley for just alt.

this is true...a friend of mine did a b16 swap in his 2nd gen. crx and had to do it
 
it could be done with not problems best thing to do is stay obd0 just make sure u get a good tuner for watever ecu u used just getit chip an take it to get tune u dont need to go obd1- or 2 too many problem trus me i when tru it when i had my ef with a 00 gsr............
 
so the best thing 2 do would be 2 jus stay obd0? doesnt it have less strict emision standards, my friends gsr teg is obd2 n his check engine light is always on!!
 
so the best thing 2 do would be 2 jus stay obd0? doesnt it have less strict emision standards, my friends gsr teg is obd2 n his check engine light is always on!!



fuck no, that guys a douche if he truly thinks that.
go obd1, much better tuning capabilities. and if you do it right then you dont have to worry about the engine light.

staying obd0 would be less expensive way to go, but i regret not doing it when i swapped mine.
 
eh lets see.
about 120 for the shift linkage.
another 250 for arizona race and machine billet mounts.
the axles are about 60 apiece.
distributer was 150 from distributer king.
i got the header for 100 from a local guy.
 
where can i get arizona mounts for a b18c type-r engine with gsr tranny? i was thinkin bout hasport but their way 2 expensive. and where did you get the axels from?
 
go to ebay for the mounts or index

and got the axles from auto zone or other local parts house.
dont get them offline bc if they arent right, you cant return them.
DA teggy axles.
 
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