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b18cr, wont rev past 5500 rpm & no vtec

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by thunderboy, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. thunderboy

    thunderboy New Member

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    Hi guys, any help on this one would be much appreciated. (and i have been searching for a few hours now... just finding info on oil/oil clogs)

    Right..

    I have a 92-95 EG civic, OBD1

    Engine B18cR

    Ecu, P73 ob2a, running with obd1/obd2a conversion harness..

    The problem I am having is driving the car it physically wont rev past approx 5500rpm. and subsequently vtec will not engage.

    The car will rev past this in neutral, but obv there is no vtec engagement for this.

    Really not sure what to try to solve this problem - any ideas?
     
  2. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    B18C5? It's a type R? Is that what you mean by B18CR? What ECU are you running?
     
  3. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    Convert it all to obd1 and run a chipped p28. That should eliminate those annoying sensors putting you into a "limp" mode. If that doesn't work, than check speed sensor and coolant temp. sensor. There should be a knock sensor as well, wont really be needed when obd1.
     
  4. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    B18C=JDM Type-R, B18C5=USDM

    And he's running a P73.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    Thanks for clearing that up, Kevin. :D
     
  6. thunderboy

    thunderboy New Member

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    Well, that wouldnt really be solving the problem - more trying to avoid it.

    I unfortunately do not have a chipped obd1 p28 lying around, so its not really a purchase I want to make if its not going to solve the problem.

    in terms of checking the sensors as you say, i've been reading as you say to check VSS, Coolant temp, RPM, Oil Pressure.. Not really sure what is meant by 'check'

    As far as the instruments in the car... the tach/speedo/temp all work & not throwing any CEL codes. - so I dont understand what could be wrong.


    Ty
     
  7. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    what happens if your rolling with some speed and put the clutch in to rev it, such as neutral. will it rev past? weird limp mode unlike i've encountered.
     
  8. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    1) your car is wired for obd1.
    2) your engine is obd2b (if 98+ itr)
    3) your using an obd2a ecu (p73 which is gsr)

    Obd1 is favored over obd2 for the simple fact that it elimates some sensors that your obd2a ecu WILL look for, such as knock, crank position sensor etc.

    Your harness/ecu should match the head. Like I said before, to make the most power with 0 headaches, take the obd2a jumper off and get a p28 chipped. Phearable.net - Electronic Fuel Injection Tuning Solutions - Hondata, Neptune, Crome, Uberdata, Ectune, AEM, Honda Tuning, Widebands, Fuel Pumps, Intercoolers, Turbos, LS/VTEC, ECU Chipping, Chipped Ecus, P28 -- you tell them what engine, he will chip a p28 and send it to you for less than $200. Make sure you have sufficient oil pressure and vtec is wired correctly to the ecu. Your problems will go away, bottom line.

    You are here asking "us" for help. We are giving you answer's and you argue. Obviously if you understood the situation you would not be here asking. If you do not want to go the best route, as I specified, than don't. Spend hundreds more trying to figure it out.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2008
  9. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    OR get a new harness for complete OBD2a and remove the damn'd OBD1 harness all together. the emission's center will give you a hug too.

    edit. didnt see the b. thought they were both 2a. rywire.com make a harness maybe? i think that would be cheaper than an ECU
     
  10. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    His car is already wired for obd1. He is using a jumper harness to run the obd2a ecu (p73). With this, additional wiring is needed on the engine harness for this engine to function properly. You cannot simply put an obd1-obd2a jumper onto an eg harness (obd1) and run an obd2a ecu. It will run like ass.

    EDIT: The emmissions center won't love him, they will reject him. Either way, the car is obd1, so there will be no use of scanning from the obd2 port, being that it does not exist. They use a sniffer in the exhaust tail-pipe when testing emmissions on cars pre-95.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2008
  11. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    If he want's to do this the right way, he should get an obd1 distributor, obd1 chipped ecu.
     
  12. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    sorry for not correcting what i said. i didnt mean it to sound like that. i was trying to say, why cant he replace his engine harness. remove the OBD1 engine harness from the motor to ecu, and put in a motor harness appropriate. but then i realized, the motor and ecu arn't like OBD, so I tried saying to suggest using an OBD2b harness which will have all wires for all sensors, and then convert that harness to obd2a for the ecu. but idk if that would be cheaper.

    on a different note, maybe i need to go to sleep. it's real late. ^_^
     
  13. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    He would need to re-wire the whole car. Judging by his knowledge I don't think its something he can do on his own. He will end up spending a lot for that engine harness, and ontop of it he will spend a lot more for a shop to do the wiring. He is going to need an engine harness that clips from the shock tower. Finding one that is obd2 isn't exactly easy today, but possible.
     
  14. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    My friend has a 95 eg hatch, with a 2001 ITR swap complete with obd2 engine harness and all. Runs great. Another friend of mine has a 92 eg hatch with a 2001 itr swap, running on the stock engine harness, with an obd1 distributor and a chipped p28. The chipped p28 out performed the obd2 hatch every time, and he was on stock manifolds. The obd2 hatch had I/H/E. The chipped p28 hatch has only I/E. You do the math. :)
     
  15. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    ok ok that's fine. i was brainstorming other maybeee cheaper ways to look into. ur probably right tho. i have less experiance there.


    but, I myself have a 2000 ex coupe (obd2a) with an OBD1 B16, that was through a conversion harness, but I cut it apart and wired it all up directly. and integrated it with the chassis, which was no problem because the chassis was higher OBD spec than the motor, which otherwise, yeah you'd need a fuel pressure sensor for one, and not much else but still with his experiance, i get ya.
     
  16. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    I did it for ease of tunability and emissions doesnt care out here ;)
     
  17. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    I don't mean to be a dick, but your car is a 2000 civic ex? That would make it obd2b not obd2a. ;l
     
  18. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    hmmmmmm. sure? i dont remember now. it was an auto... i'm lookin it up. dang lol
     
  19. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    yeah ur right. eh i havnt payed much attention after getting the right diagrams. this is the only car i've done work on. but the right most plug was unused in mine. so yes. u got me :)
     
  20. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    Oh I am sure ;] 96-98 = obd2a. 99-00 = obd2b.
    Automatic or standard, it doesn't make a difference. OBD = On-Board-Diagnostics. Nothing relating to the transmission.
     
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