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B20 T V. Lsvtec T

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by turtl631, Apr 17, 2003.

  1. turtl631

    turtl631 Member

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    Is either of these setups a better bet? Also, would it be better just to go with a ls t, rather than doing the head swap? How about a b20 t with no head swap? This is for an integra ls. Finally, would it be better to just get a gsr and turbo that, rather than fooling with a swap? Thanks.
     
  2. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    they are all viable options man...
    some cost more than others... some blow up more than others

    what do you want out of the car?
     
  3. turtl631

    turtl631 Member

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    Well, this would be a daily driver and reliability would definitely be important. So if something is prone to blow up, I'd probably steer clear of it. Which of these options blow up more? Money is obviously an issue too, but could you tell me how great the cost difference would be between these setups? I'm not totally sure what i wnat out of the car, but i'd prefer at least 250 whp, more if i could keep it streetable and not totally kill my gas mileage. So maybe 300 whp as a target? I'd rather have more of an all around road racer type vehicle than a strictly drag racing oriented car. Thanks for any advice!
     
  4. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    250-300 is cake.

    LS/T is all you need.
     
  5. turtl631

    turtl631 Member

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    Could i hit 300whp with ls t without beefing up the internals, or would the boost level necesitate new rods, valves, springs, pistons, sleeves, etc? Does vtec complicate things a lot with a turbo? I'm not very mechanically inclined, at least not yet, so I want to keep this as simple as possible. Also, whats the highest level of power before traction becomes a serious problem on the street? I plan to upgrade suspension, rims, and tires, but i know street tires can only get so much grip. Is 300 a pretty reasonable target? Thanks again.
     
  6. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    hondata tuned, you can run 300 whp.

    that said, i don't think you know how fast 300 whp is.

    you will burn 3rd gear at wil will 250 whp.
    300, you will light up 4th on a downshift on the highway
     
  7. Canuck 93 Civic Si

    Canuck 93 Civic Si Senior Member

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    This is all very encouraging news. Im buying an LS and im gonna boost it, my goal is 350 whp. Am I reading correctly, i will not need to boost the internals up to 300hp? I am looking at pretty much the same setup as turtl631 as far as keeping it a daily and not strictly for drag. What turbo do you recommend? I was thinking of a T3 off of a Tbird turbocoupe, is that a wise choise or should i just go spend the cash on a fullrace turbo? Oh and of course it will be hondata tuned :D . My main question right now though is on the internals, rods, pistons etc. All, none, some what is really required for 350 ? thanks
     
  8. turtl631

    turtl631 Member

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    So a well tuned LS turbo is pretty much all i need, right? Do you have any recomendations for turbos, and to hit somewhere between 250 and 300 whp, will i need to upgrade internals? Finally, I know the LS lacks VTEC. Will this really matter to me with this car as a daily driver? Thanks again, youve been really helpful.
     
  9. zueke

    zueke Senior Member

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    I don't know about the internals question, but from what I've heard the lack of VTEC is not too big of a deal. While VTEC tuned right for boost will make more power, you will already have quite enough power.
     
  10. MarkJimenez99

    MarkJimenez99 Senior Member

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    I just got an intercooled LS Turbo. It's pretty damn fast at 7psi. Get an LS turbo. You definitely won't be disappointed. Have fun. :D
     
  11. iamane12d

    iamane12d Member

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    how come nobody commented on the b20... kinda curious what people think of it
     
  12. Canuck 93 Civic Si

    Canuck 93 Civic Si Senior Member

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    Are your internals built? Have you dynoed?
     
  13. liquid00meth

    liquid00meth Senior Member

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    :ph34r: the day I burn 4th on a downshift
     
  14. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    personally, i think its over-rated.

    its basically an LS block that has been bored. so your sleeves are thinner. thin sleeves - crack.
    you can sleeve an LS to 84mm, and HAVE a crv block, with cast sleeves that pretty much WONT crack unless you do something bad. that, and the ls bottom end is cheaper from the start.

    as for the 4th gear burnout down shift- 325 or so whp and a gsr/b16/itr tranny, you will easily burn it if you dump it hard and don't fall out of boost

    VTEC = more power. since you already have a goal, and its obtainable without VTEC, why bother with it? there are plenty of ls/t's in the low 11s full street cars.
    as for internals...
    IMO, i would do rods and pistons to be on the safe side. that said, its very possible to do it without it. its all how much you want to take a risk. It may never blow. it might in a week. it might still blow with the rods and pistons. it might blow on the stock pistons and melt your valve train at the same time. boost is a big risk. and it all comes down to tuning for both longevity, and power.

    as for the T3 off a t-bird.... IMO, that turbo is too small. It will require much more boost psi to make the same power as a t3/t4 would. more psi means more heat. more heat leads to detonation. detonation leads to you taking the bus.

    to be honest, im not a fan of the t3/t4 at all either. 1000s of people use them, but IMO, for a daily drive turbo car, you want something with a little more lag. both for normal driving, and for getting decent gas milage on the highway. lag will keep you out of boost crusing at 65, and at a stop light you don't have 200 whp at idel from a T-12 (made up).
    for that reason, i'm a big fan of the t3/60-1 series. it will offer a great op end, and still keep >3 grand very streetable due to its lag. and if time comes later on down the road, the turbo can easily support 500 whp before it maxes out.
    if you aren't into old-skool deisl turbo technology, precision turbo's are bad ass, but pricey.
    check out http://www.precisionte.com for more info
    HTH
     
  15. MarkJimenez99

    MarkJimenez99 Senior Member

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    I haven't dynoed yet but I can feel the power. It has more power to beat a built gsr motor in a straight line. I'm sure it can beat a Subaru WRX. It's pretty bad ass. I plan on getting it dyno-tuned for more power in the future. Overall, I'm currently happy with the power. :lol:
     
  16. MarkJimenez99

    MarkJimenez99 Senior Member

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    Oh yeah, and my internals aren't built since it's a fairly new motor($22,000). It probably hasn't been revved on previously since it came from an automatic. It's all stock.
     
  17. MarkJimenez99

    MarkJimenez99 Senior Member

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  18. Canuck 93 Civic Si

    Canuck 93 Civic Si Senior Member

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    Thanks soo much for your helps guys. All my questions are answered...... for now :lol:
     
  19. saturn_boy96

    saturn_boy96 88 C1V1C 53D4N DR1V3R

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    yeah go with something like the t3 60-1. great turbo choince for an ls.
     
  20. turtl631

    turtl631 Member

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    You've been very helpful. If I'm understanding this correctly, basically I need a T3 60-1 with all the appropriate piping, rods, pistons, new fuel pump and injectors, exhaust, and Hondata, right? Is there anything big I'm missing here (i.e. cams, cam gears, sleeves, or even something i don't know about yet)? I still have a few more questions. Is there a certain intercooler that really shines supreme, especially for the ls T application? Finally, about how many pounds of boost would I need to hit around 275-300 whp? Thanks again!
     
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