porkfried83
New Member
I thought it sounded like the lock up control solenoid, aka shift lock solenoid. That sucks...what kinda shop is that guy running.
B20 w/LS auto - won't shif out of park
- Thread starter civicjason
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dc4dude
Member
Just throwing this in here, but when i did my auto to manual swap in my integra, i messed around with the idea of swapping out the auto cluster to a manual one, but when i did, the car started to surge at idle... I had to rig it so that the aftermarket tach i installed fit in there, while the circuit board that is behind the cluster remained connected... Something back there controls the idle dude... If you need pictures let me know...
civicjason
New Member
Oops I think that's my ignorance talking...He probably called it by that.
Whatever he did he made it to where the car will come out of part any time which I'm not to thrilled about as I thought he had figured out the problem and not put a band aid on it.
He also informed me that I need a mount fabbed for the front of the transmission or it will move when the engine is revved...umm I thought I asked him if he had done this swap before and I got a yes.
civicjason
New Member
So are you saying I need an Integra cluster? If so that would um suck and be kind of weird.
civicjason
New Member
I did drive it to the exhaust shop yesterday.
(1) It lacked power (PCV but possibly O2 sensor extension related)
(2) It never died on me
(3) Idled very low and sputtered when I would take off (PCV and bad O2 sensor extension...one or both)
(4) Lacked low end power big time but then would sort of get a little power and go (o2 extension and PCV)
(5) While driving down the Interstate it would sort of load up and lose power then go again (o2 extension and PCV)
(6) Did act like it was getting very rich and did smell a bit fuelly but that's probably open header for you. (o2 extension and PCV)
It was a very cold day so could it just be cold air being sucked back into the header causing the O2 sensor to go a bit crazy?
IAT ended up being bad also but that code didn't show up until 5 months later.
(1) It lacked power (PCV but possibly O2 sensor extension related)
(2) It never died on me
(3) Idled very low and sputtered when I would take off (PCV and bad O2 sensor extension...one or both)
(4) Lacked low end power big time but then would sort of get a little power and go (o2 extension and PCV)
(5) While driving down the Interstate it would sort of load up and lose power then go again (o2 extension and PCV)
(6) Did act like it was getting very rich and did smell a bit fuelly but that's probably open header for you. (o2 extension and PCV)
It was a very cold day so could it just be cold air being sucked back into the header causing the O2 sensor to go a bit crazy?
IAT ended up being bad also but that code didn't show up until 5 months later.
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If you're going to disregard the information that someone 'in the know' has already given you regarding the effect of your exhaust and/or open header on the complaints that you're inquiring about, and continue to take the advice of the shop that's REPEATEDLY led you astray and given you wrong information AND done hack-ass work on your car, then you're on your own.
All the information you need to get started on PROPERLY diagnosing the problem has already been posted, and I'd be willing to bet that the HELPFUL information and/or the PROPER way to begin diagnosing your problem - which has been posted here already - is coming to you at a much lesser cost than whatever the shop it's at has been charging you.
civicjason
New Member
Please don't take offense I'm definitely taking your advice the best I can right now. The car is getting an exhaust I fully intend on taking the issues up with him or fixing them myself (with help from this forum or rywire) after the exhaust shows he's still left me with problems.
Thanks,
Jason
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civicjason
New Member
Yes I wish he could have had my car from the start at this point.
I haven't had much time with the car since I got it from the muffler shop but what Civicious has told me has been spot thus far. My car is still sputtery and lacking power. One thing new to add is that the D4 light started blinking on my way home.
The D4 light is the diagnostic light for the TCM. That's actually an awesome thing, I hadn't thought that would work.
I believe you can just jumper the service connector inside your car that's already on the factory harness - if memory serves correct it's a blue plug behind the passenger side kick panel.
I believe you can just jumper the service connector inside your car that's already on the factory harness - if memory serves correct it's a blue plug behind the passenger side kick panel.
civicjason
New Member
Well I've got to drive it a bit more now. Things I've noticed. It cranks and drives pretty good and shifts through all gears. After a while of driving when I come to a stop it's like something clicks on and the car idles at a really low rpm. Also the D4 flashes.
I may be way out in left field but could this problem be because of the fan turning on and causing some sort of weird conflict due to a wiring error on the harness or a sensor problem? Or could it be an IAT sensor problem? Just some thoughts since my cars setup is rather unusual.
Oh next thing I will look into is pulling the codes from the tcm but I just haven't had time so far.
I may be way out in left field but could this problem be because of the fan turning on and causing some sort of weird conflict due to a wiring error on the harness or a sensor problem? Or could it be an IAT sensor problem? Just some thoughts since my cars setup is rather unusual.
Oh next thing I will look into is pulling the codes from the tcm but I just haven't had time so far.
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civicjason
New Member
I didn't want a manual for a few reasons. One was my wife needs to be able to drive it I don't think B20s are fast with manual transmissions just more powerful with very good torque so I felt a B20 with an auto would make a good commuter car if done right and obviously mine hasn't been done right just yet.
civicjason
New Member
Things may work out I think but right now I'm ready to convert it to 5-speed and sale it.
civicjason
New Member
I'm getting code 14 from the flashing D4 and shockingly that's the only one. Does anyone have a chart for TCM codes?
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I've got a diagnostic tree that involves using a test harness that I don't have, and I doubt you do.
The fault is for an open circuit in one of the wires from the TCM to the ECU. I'm working on figuring out which one it is, I'll spend more time looking thru the wiring diagrams this evening to find out what terminals the wire goes to/from...my guess though, is that the wire is missing from one of your harnesses.
Can you possibly post a photo of your ECM/TCM and the jumper harnesses? Even a simple cameraphone 'this is what I'm working with' snapshot will work. I just want to see how these harnesses are connected to them, I'm not worried about being able to see individual wire colors and such.
The fault is for an open circuit in one of the wires from the TCM to the ECU. I'm working on figuring out which one it is, I'll spend more time looking thru the wiring diagrams this evening to find out what terminals the wire goes to/from...my guess though, is that the wire is missing from one of your harnesses.
Can you possibly post a photo of your ECM/TCM and the jumper harnesses? Even a simple cameraphone 'this is what I'm working with' snapshot will work. I just want to see how these harnesses are connected to them, I'm not worried about being able to see individual wire colors and such.
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civicjason
New Member
Yes I will get a picture posted as soon as possible but regretfully it won't be until this evening when I get home because I won't be able to upload it till then. It should be of good quality regardless because it's easier to upload from our camera than it is from my cell phone (no data or texting on mine).
