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B20B 96-98 specs or B20B/Z 99-01 specs better?

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by trequartista_10, Oct 15, 2008.

  1. trequartista_10

    trequartista_10 Junior Honda Builder

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    Hey guys,
    I need some adivces doing my B20B Vtec on my 93 EG hatchback.

    Which B20 is better, the one that from 96-98 specs or 99-02 specs?

    Basically they both the same size of engine that came off from honda Cr-V but the 99-01 specs has greater power and torque, which I think is because the head on 99 specs is more aggresive?? correct me if I'm wrong, please.

    Another question from me is, is it worth it to do the swap with B20B block and put civic type-R or ITR head on it? How much power will it produce with all stock?
    But I might do the port, polish and milled head though.
    Any body has done it before?

    Please help me out....Because I got 2 opinions from my friends, one of them said its gonna be waste doing it without do anything on the head (like take the cam to the higher stage, bla bla bla...), and the other one said its even better than get a Type-R engine?

    Oh yeah and another thing, I will put the Type-R tranny either CTR or ITR.
    And I think they both the same, isnt it? Correct me if I'm wrong.

    Please help me out guys....
    I desperately need help here....

    Oh yeah please note that my EG has a Vtec already.

    Thanks a lot and may all honda lover has a wonderful day and life.

    Thank you...........:):):)
     
  2. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    The power differences betwwen the B20s are made in the head, so whatever one you can get for cheaper will be best. And a Type-R head would be a pretty potent CRVTEC. And as far as a CTR and ITR tranny Im almost positve they are the same.
     
  3. FLounder

    FLounder power hungry VIP

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    a b20z will yield higher compression numbers in stock form... and thus should make more power. if i remember right with a vtec head the cr is 9.6:1 for the b20z and 9.2:1 for the b20b.

    i can tell you from experience that you cant just bolt it all together and have a beast. it will need some additional parts and a good tune. i bought my b20vtec (b20z block with a semi-built b16a head) with a few bolt ons and running on a stock ecu. it was suprisingly slow. i added a couple more parts, and changed the ecu to a basemap for b20vtec and it made a big difference, now i would say its as quick or quicker than a bolt-on gsr. soon ill be going for dyno tuning, to get my cam gears dialed in, and the ecu remapped. after talking to a couple tuners im expecting pretty big gains. i have been told that the cam timing is always slightly off on this set up and you need adjustable cam gears to get it just right. also, being that this is a motor that honda NEVER intended on making it takes some tuning to get it to its full potential.
     
  4. trequartista_10

    trequartista_10 Junior Honda Builder

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    Thanks guys for the answer, really appreciate it.

    But if I ask another question, what are the parts that you added?

    And what is basemap ECU?

    Any other opinions???

    Thanks

    Thanks a lot.
     
  5. trequartista_10

    trequartista_10 Junior Honda Builder

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    anybody else's opinion??
    please help me guys...
    desperately need help here.
    thanks, much appreciate it
     
  6. FLounder

    FLounder power hungry VIP

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    ill try to help.... a basemapped ecu is basically a stock"ish" program that has been tweaked a little bit to compensate for the addition of aftermarket parts or engine setups. For example when i bought my car it was running on a stock p28 ecu. i went ahead and got all the bolt-ons taken care of and got a socketed and chipped ecu from xenocron.com. there are several reputable sources for ecus online, by the way. they sent me two different chips to try and see which one i like more, both obviously were basemapped for b20vtec... whereas the stock p28 is for a single cam vtec i believe. so obviously the car runs much better and much quicker after that.

    as far as mods i have a short ram intake, type r throttle body and intake manifold, a ebay header, test pipe, and custom exhaust, also have gsr cams in my b16a head, crower valve train, and adjustable cam gears. My engine remains untuned at this point, and therefore nowhere near its potential. im hoping in the next month or so to get it dyno tuned, at which point i will post the results. im not trying to tell you that this is the most amazing setup in the world for a b20vtec, but from what i have gathered its about all i really need to get into since im not building internals on the block.

    which brings me to the next point of interest.... the b20 bottom ends dont like a lot of rpms. supposedly anything over 7000-7500 is bad. i have revved mine higher just to see, but theres not much point because it feels like the power falls off after 7500 anyways. you are talking about using type r cams or perhaps even more aggressive aftermarket cams... the only thing about these are that they are designed for high rpm power, so to really see the big power gains these cams promise, you need to build your bottom end to be able to rev to 8k or more.

    it all depends on how deep your pockets are i guess. im just building my car as a fun and relatively cheap project, and i just want to see what i can get out of the stock block. right now its pretty quick, and after tuning it think i will be satisfied for a while. but everyones different so build what you want and can afford.

    if anyone wants to add or amend anything ive said feel free, i dont claim to be an expert :)
     
  7. IanB

    IanB MB4 X2

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    All B20's from North America used the P75 head, the EXACT same head as the B18b used. The power difference between the B20b and z is due to the higher compression pistons and better flowing manifolds on the B20z, that's the only difference between the 2. There is another head casting that was used on certain JDM B20's, the P8R which is an 84mm combustion chamber to match the bore, and larger valves.
     
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