B20b question

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civicnar

Junior Member
I was looking at a B20b out of a CRV and they are very affordable and I was wondering what all you can do to one and how in depth is it to put one in a 96 civic HX as in computer conversions and axles and all of that basicly just an overview of what I would have to do to swap that motor into my 96 HX. Please let me know and I a appreciate your help.

James
 
to tell you the truth, the b20b sucks, most likely your gonna have to resleeve, new pistons, rods and bearings. you have a nasty chance of spinning a piston. i would rather get a bare b series block and these go for pretty cheap if you know where to look. get a new crank/pistons/rods/bore 84mm and new sleeves and slap a vtec head on there. then you got a b20 there with vtec. i would get a b16a head and port and polish it. it's just as good as a itr head
 
I have to disagree.

The only difference between the B20 block and a B18B Block is the bore. (and in some cases the pistons, but its higher compression so thats a good thing not bad).
The cylinder walls are quite thin, so if you plan on boosting or really high reving, resleaving is not a terrible idea. However, there are plenty of people out there with stock sleeves running impressive B20/vtec builds.

You can basicly do anything to a B20. With out taking the vtec route, like the B18B you are going to be limited to streetability. Since you will not have a lower cam profile, if you want real power you are going to have to deal with rough/lopey idling.

It is very possible to get over 200whp NA out of a non-vtec B20. Its all in building it properly though.
 
Originally posted by StyleTEG@Jan 16 2004, 11:53 AM
Since you will not have a lower cam profile, if you want real power you are going to have to deal with rough/lopey idling.
Click to expand...

no

bill was running crower cams in his LS that are more agressive than the high lobes on the 00+ JDM ITR (same as CTR)
he didnt have adjustable cam gears
he didnt tune anything
he had the stock LS ECU

his idle was perfect

you can get away with a lot more than people seem to think you can
 
Yes. :) ;)

To get real power, ie: 200whp (or more) , you are going to have a lopey idle.

Unless they are custom grinds, I am guessing you mean the 405s? (the 404s are close to ITR cams, spec wise)

Even 403's *TUNED* tend to have a rougher than stock idle. (from experiance :) ). 404's and 405's just get worse and worse. The only way to combat the lopey feeling, is to raise the idle rpm. Which in turn, brings more vibration into the cabin.

Its just one aspect of non-vtec cams. It will bother some more than others, but it is there. You simply can't make one cam profile that is great for high end power and idling.
 
The B20b doesn't suck! They can make very potent motors without a full rebuild! This swap should take all the same parts as a B18 swap. If you want to go boost or Nitrous then get ready for the rebuild. As for cams Idle on a good street cam should be fine and smooth, if you were the track and you adjusted your cam gears for more overlap then idle may get rough.
 
you will need b series axles and any b series tranny except the 4wd crv tranny. and just use the b20b ecu and you should be fine! this motor won´t give you amasing power but will get you some nice torque!
but if i were you i would look for a b20z there you get the same torque but 147hp as opposed to 128 in the b20b!
 
u can also use the B18b ECU, any B series tranny would work and u can swap head and cams from B18b over and i should work better.

If u decided to build the b20, its one strong ass motor.
 
well, I know a guy from clubsi and followed his build, he eventually ran low 13's with the b20 wtih no vtec and high 12's with the vtec stock head all in a HX.


It's a good motor, tq is great with it, tranny is going to be very key
 
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