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b20vtec turbo

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by ppiart, Jan 27, 2011.

  1. ppiart

    ppiart New Member

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    So I have a few questions about this topic I'v researched alittle bit but just wanted to see what you guys have to say.
    So I bought an eg hatch with a b20 vtec turbo build the specs are bone stock bottom end out of a 99 crv and a 2000 b16a head of a civic si. .63 greddy turbo 3" piping and exhaust. Tuned on crome. I'm not totally familiar with crome and this is my first turbo car, its got 318whp to the wheel on 8lbs as it sits.
    My consern is the fact every one sais b20 sleeves are shit so with that said I want to know if I would be safe pulling the block having a block guard installed professionally and having good rods with good pistons put in to make it more reliable, also I do plan to take it to my local shop to see what compression is and also have them run a few pulls on the dyno to see exactly what's going on. But before I go and start throwing parts at this car I wanna see what the experts say, I wanna know if crome is really a good thing to tune with if not should I go hondata or aem ems ect. My goal as far as whp is about 300 I'm not trying to build a 600+ hp car and expect it to run 6 months from now on stock sleeves so I'm not retarded I just dont have any experience with this build yet
     
  2. ppiart

    ppiart New Member

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    Ok did some research and I have a few things I wanna do to try and make the motor more reliable. 1. Forged low comp pistons and H beam rods. 2. AEM water/methanol injection kit. 3. Oil catch can.

    If any one has any advise to this let me know even if its a big waist of time just give me some imput I'm just trying to weigh my options thanks.
     
  3. FLounder

    FLounder power hungry VIP

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    there are reaally two weak points in the stock b20 bottom end... the sleeves dont like boost, and the rodbolts dont like rpms.

    honestly, if i was you i would just leave the setup that you have alone, re-tune it on something better like neptune or s300 and have fun with 300+ whp at low boost level. if it blows up eventually then rebuild for more strength. adding a catch can setup would be good, but i personally feel meth injection might be a waste and just adding extra money and complication. if you were trying to squeeze big power out of the setup then yeah it would be worthwhile.

    you asked about my setup in my thread.... i built a b20z bottom with CP 9:0 pistons, eagle rods, acl race bearings.... it had to be bored so it was 84.5mm. with the milled b16a head its about 9.7:1 cr. this was done to go along with the jackson racing supercharger that i had at the time, and it was great, car ran good for nearly two years. when i went to turbo it didnt take long for the thin sleeves to go on me. after tearing the motor down we dont think it was a tuning issue, everything looks very healthy and no damage beyond the sleeves themselves. after seeing this with my own eyes i believe that building a piston and rod b20 bottom is not worthwhile for boost. if you dont want to spend the money for a sleeved block, you are better off with a b18a/b/c block and with the right tuning can make 300-400whp reliably.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. DarryCar

    DarryCar New Member

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    Sounds like you should just stick with the set up you have now for what you are trying to accomplish. I had a stock B20 bottom with a stock B16 head and a Garret T3/T4 set up when I ran into the same problem as mdpsEG. I run a Hondata s300 and I think I had a poor tune. Took it to the and after about 4 runs on about 11psi I was smoking and running hot. Pulled the head and found every sleeve had been cracked. That gave me an excuse to get serious. Pulled the block and had it sleeved with ductile iron, shot peened the stock crank, fitted Wiseco pistons and Eagle H Beam rods (running 8.8:1 comp), new bearings and a block girdle. Used ARP head studs to strap down the head. The head is a stock '99 B16 head with all ITR valve train, except for a CTR intake cam. I put an Edelbrock Victor X manifold with a 70mm throttle body. I also moved up to a Garrett GT3076R and got a wicked manifold. This time got a good tune and pumped out 384hp/296tq at the wheels on 91 octane @ 16psi. I live in AZ so it was tuned "safely" for the hot weather. That was almost 3 years ago. I don't drive it every day (no A/C), but it could be a daily driver. I have been running 109 octane for almost a year now and boosting a little over 20psi on the streets. Still solid.

    In conclusion, drive it till you break it. If your going to open up the bottom end, do it right and put sleeves in it. Its gona suck when you put nice pistons and rods in it, run it for a couple months, then find out that you have to rebuild it again. Don't do a block guard. Block guards just keep the cylinders from "walking." It doesn't keep them from cracking. Hope this helps.

    /Users/dannycraig/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2007/2007_02_10/IMG_0317.JPG/Users/dannycraig/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Originals/2007/2007_02_10/IMG_0318.JPG

    Tried to attach some pics to this, but I guess I don't know how.
     
  5. DarryCar

    DarryCar New Member

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