b20vtec

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gomes

Junior Member
hy guys i`m going to build a b20vtec i`ve got rid of the b20a4 and there is a b20b or z on its way and a typ r tranny. I want to do the wild setup for evrything. well if you do it you better do it good right?
but i don`t know where to find evrything. where can i get the 95 mm crank?

a lot of parts are going to be suplied by my tuner so i don`t have to worry about the pistons what are going to be JE, rods from carson, fuelpomp of a accord,injectors of corrado g60, and a full race intake mainfold

just got to beat those integra`s at the races
:laugh: :cool:
 
from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?
 
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks
 
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks
i think the b20z2 will be better but thats just my opinion
 
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks
i think the b20z2 will be better but thats just my opinion

how difficult are the modifications to fit the gsr head to the B20Z2 block and for motor mounts, if i were to do it myself how much do you think it will cost me.
i heard with that swap it will give me 190 ft lbs of torque @ 7000rpm
220 hp @8000
does that sound right?
 
the modifications on the head you can find them in the ls/vtec article

easyest is a golden eagle vtec conversion kit and you have to relocate the dowel pins to the oposit side

and about the mounts i`m don`t know that yet

hope this help
 
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks
i think the b20z2 will be better but thats just my opinion

how difficult are the modifications to fit the gsr head to the B20Z2 block and for motor mounts, if i were to do it myself how much do you think it will cost me.
i heard with that swap it will give me 190 ft lbs of torque @ 7000rpm
220 hp @8000
does that sound right?

I don't know where you getting those kind of numbers.
Maybe more like
190hp
135 trq, 190? not in a honda. (n/a that is)
 
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks
i think the b20z2 will be better but thats just my opinion

how difficult are the modifications to fit the gsr head to the B20Z2 block and for motor mounts, if i were to do it myself how much do you think it will cost me.
i heard with that swap it will give me 190 ft lbs of torque @ 7000rpm
220 hp @8000
does that sound right?

I don't know where you getting those kind of numbers.
Maybe more like
190hp
135 trq, 190? not in a honda. (n/a that is)
so having the b20 block really wont make much of a differance then... it maybe adds 10hp.. and basically no trq
 
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks
i think the b20z2 will be better but thats just my opinion

how difficult are the modifications to fit the gsr head to the B20Z2 block and for motor mounts, if i were to do it myself how much do you think it will cost me.
i heard with that swap it will give me 190 ft lbs of torque @ 7000rpm
220 hp @8000
does that sound right?

I don't know where you getting those kind of numbers.
Maybe more like
190hp
135 trq, 190? not in a honda. (n/a that is)
so having the b20 block really wont make much of a differance then... it maybe adds 10hp.. and basically no trq

I'm talking numbers to the wheel, not fly.
ANd are you kidding me?
You probably pick up like 15 wheel trq.
It's more the trq than hp for the bottom end.
 
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks
i think the b20z2 will be better but thats just my opinion

how difficult are the modifications to fit the gsr head to the B20Z2 block and for motor mounts, if i were to do it myself how much do you think it will cost me.
i heard with that swap it will give me 190 ft lbs of torque @ 7000rpm
220 hp @8000
does that sound right?

I don't know where you getting those kind of numbers.
Maybe more like
190hp
135 trq, 190? not in a honda. (n/a that is)
so having the b20 block really wont make much of a differance then... it maybe adds 10hp.. and basically no trq

I'm talking numbers to the wheel, not fly.
ANd are you kidding me?
You probably pick up like 15 wheel trq.
It's more the trq than hp for the bottom end.
well my tuner here in holland says with all the components build on the wild setup i could get 200whp easy and torque will be monstres
and i think he`s right but we will se wen its finished and have been dynoed
 
Quoted post[/post]]
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks

Build the gsr. Hands down the better block. Sleeve it bore it it to 84 or 85mm, and call it good. If you are cheap, then get the b20b/z block, don't sleeve, and tune your max power to be at a lower rpm, as it is more resistant to revving than the gsr, and you can utilize the torque advantage it will have over the gsr block to make the power at lower engine speeds. Definitely keep the gsr head, I don't know if you were planning on getting rid of it, but keep use it.
 
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks

Build the gsr. Hands down the better block. Sleeve it bore it it to 84 or 85mm, and call it good. If you are cheap, then get the b20b/z block, don't sleeve, and tune your max power to be at a lower rpm, as it is more resistant to revving than the gsr, and you can utilize the torque advantage it will have over the gsr block to make the power at lower engine speeds. Definitely keep the gsr head, I don't know if you were planning on getting rid of it, but keep use it.
but if the b20b/z is better resistance to reving and has better torque at the lower rpm what makes the gsr better ? why not sleeve the b20 and stroke it to 95mm what is the disadvance in that setup? i`m trying to get a powerfull engine that takeout all of the cars at the 1/4 mile that are n/a so i thought that the wild setup for everything on the b20 would be best but i could be wrong. All help is greatly apriciated thanks
 
seems to me you have alot of money to put into the motor. but having more tq at the drag strip or for the 1/4 mile is not always that important. its not like you need that much midrage, espacialy when you have a short geared tranny. tq is great if you need power to get out of a corner or from a mid rpm pull.
 
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from witch typ or brand is the 95mm crank in the colum wild block setup in the article ls/vtec?


quick question since your doing a similar swap. i have a 94 gs-r should i punch the block out to a 2.0L and rebuild the head or go with the B20Z2 block with rebuilt gs-r head. im going for N/A, and advise would help thanks

Build the gsr. Hands down the better block. Sleeve it bore it it to 84 or 85mm, and call it good. If you are cheap, then get the b20b/z block, don't sleeve, and tune your max power to be at a lower rpm, as it is more resistant to revving than the gsr, and you can utilize the torque advantage it will have over the gsr block to make the power at lower engine speeds. Definitely keep the gsr head, I don't know if you were planning on getting rid of it, but keep use it.
but if the b20b/z is better resistance to reving and has better torque at the lower rpm what makes the gsr better ? why not sleeve the b20 and stroke it to 95mm what is the disadvance in that setup? i`m trying to get a powerfull engine that takeout all of the cars at the 1/4 mile that are n/a so i thought that the wild setup for everything on the b20 would be best but i could be wrong. All help is greatly apriciated thanks
b20b/z cannot rev as high as a gsr because it wasnt built to, but because its a 2.0 instead of a 1.8 it does have more torque. if it was me i would rebuild the b20 bottom so that it could rev like a gsr, get some high comp pistons, possibly sleeve it but for NA i think a DIY block fill would be more than enough, build the head, get a nice tune, and call it a day. and if your really serious about NA i would make myself some homemade ITBs with CBR 954s or even 1000s if you could find a set.

imo thats an expensive way to go slow though. but im also probably the only guy here that loves turbos and also has never owned one. but thats a monetary thing.
 
Lots of people on here love turbos and don't own one. Lot of people here also love NA. I recommend the gsr block because it was built to rev higher. It's good because you have a more useful revrange, and keep in mind that the fast your engine revs, the more combustion you are going to have give a certain time, i.e. more horsepower with less displacement. That's what honda is pretty much all about. You can build either the b20 or the b18c and effectively run the same amount of power, but the b20 is going to operating at a lower engine speed, thats all. I'd do the gsr block, because it was an engine with performance in mind from the factory: better revvability, block girdle, oil squiters. There is just going to be a lot less stress on the gsr block than the b20 at higher engine speeds. I am not saying the b20 isn't doable, because it is easily doable, it's just that the gsr starts out with more advantages. If you build them, both will be very capable. If you don't want to do a whole lot to the bottom end, the gsr is better bang for the buck. My .02, take it as you will.
 
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Lots of people on here love turbos and don't own one. Lot of people here also love NA. I recommend the gsr block because it was built to rev higher. It's good because you have a more useful revrange, and keep in mind that the fast your engine revs, the more combustion you are going to have give a certain time, i.e. more horsepower with less displacement. That's what honda is pretty much all about. You can build either the b20 or the b18c and effectively run the same amount of power, but the b20 is going to operating at a lower engine speed, thats all. I'd do the gsr block, because it was an engine with performance in mind from the factory: better revvability, block girdle, oil squiters. There is just going to be a lot less stress on the gsr block than the b20 at higher engine speeds. I am not saying the b20 isn't doable, because it is easily doable, it's just that the gsr starts out with more advantages. If you build them, both will be very capable. If you don't want to do a whole lot to the bottom end, the gsr is better bang for the buck. My .02, take it as you will.
i agree with that. if you dont want to put that much into it, go with the gsr. the b20 is pretty much only alot of potential in stock form.
 
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Lots of people on here love turbos and don't own one. Lot of people here also love NA. I recommend the gsr block because it was built to rev higher. It's good because you have a more useful revrange, and keep in mind that the fast your engine revs, the more combustion you are going to have give a certain time, i.e. more horsepower with less displacement. That's what honda is pretty much all about. You can build either the b20 or the b18c and effectively run the same amount of power, but the b20 is going to operating at a lower engine speed, thats all. I'd do the gsr block, because it was an engine with performance in mind from the factory: better revvability, block girdle, oil squiters. There is just going to be a lot less stress on the gsr block than the b20 at higher engine speeds. I am not saying the b20 isn't doable, because it is easily doable, it's just that the gsr starts out with more advantages. If you build them, both will be very capable. If you don't want to do a whole lot to the bottom end, the gsr is better bang for the buck. My .02, take it as you will.
i agree with that. if you dont want to put that much into it, go with the gsr. the b20 is pretty much only alot of potential in stock form.

hey thanks for all the help guys. i think ill just keep the gs-r block and sleeve it to a 2.0 and put an eagle stroker kit in it that has a crank shaft 6lbs lighter. i am building for 1/4 mile so the trq from that block should be enough, i may also think about going turbo... something about it spooling up in my gsr gives me a warm fuzzy feeling inside haha
 
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Lots of people on here love turbos and don't own one. Lot of people here also love NA. I recommend the gsr block because it was built to rev higher. It's good because you have a more useful revrange, and keep in mind that the fast your engine revs, the more combustion you are going to have give a certain time, i.e. more horsepower with less displacement. That's what honda is pretty much all about. You can build either the b20 or the b18c and effectively run the same amount of power, but the b20 is going to operating at a lower engine speed, thats all. I'd do the gsr block, because it was an engine with performance in mind from the factory: better revvability, block girdle, oil squiters. There is just going to be a lot less stress on the gsr block than the b20 at higher engine speeds. I am not saying the b20 isn't doable, because it is easily doable, it's just that the gsr starts out with more advantages. If you build them, both will be very capable. If you don't want to do a whole lot to the bottom end, the gsr is better bang for the buck. My .02, take it as you will.
i agree with that. if you dont want to put that much into it, go with the gsr. the b20 is pretty much only alot of potential in stock form.
yeah thanks alot guys but i`m going to stay with the b20 i think for normal road use it it will have more comfort
and it will be a monter engine one of the best here in holland
 
witch axles would fit under my civic coupe `98 should i go with th gsr or would type r be better?
 
they talk about a deckplate what do they mean with that?is it somthing thats got to be custom made?
 
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