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B20Z in my '90 CRX Si

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Thewiz666, Nov 24, 2003.

  1. Thewiz666

    Thewiz666 Member

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    Here's the story...

    I acquired a B20Z motor on the suggestion of the mechanic I'm using. I was going to just go with a ZC and call it done, but with his pushing I went ahead with this... adding about $700 to what I wanted to spend.

    During the past few weeks, he's almost talked me into putting an ITR head on it and go all out, but I've already given him $1400 for all labor and an S1 tranny out of a 1990 Teg LS. To do the ITR, he says it'd be another 12-1300 and that would include labor as well, along with a timing belt and water pump that I would have to cover if I don't do the VTEC head.

    I still need to have A/C on it, and apparently go to OBD-1, which I don't know all of those costs... but he told me that I'd need a wiring adaptor and proper ECU, and a A/C compressor that's compatible with a Hasport mount kit yet to be had. New lines would be needed as well I guess.

    Basically, all these costs are beginning to add up (I have $2400 in it now), and I'm thinking about just stopping with the base B20Z install, no Vtec... since I don't think I want to dump over $3500 into a car that's not worth that anymore, plus I think I have to pay for still more parts... clutch, flywheel, axles/IM shaft, etc. Going with VTEC would require my buying the right ECU, adaptor harness, and still more shit that I thought would be in with the initial 1400.

    I haven't committed to the VTEC thing yet, and I'm almost convinced I want to stop at this point... hell, it's too bad I just can't go back to the ZC and have a better chance of having LSD.

    I need some advice, pro/con list, etc... I can't justify the expense.
     
  2. hammerdgolfer

    hammerdgolfer Senior Member

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    :worthy:
    i wish i had a b20z
    hey whats the dif with a b20b
    i want to be going with either, i really want to run all motor b20 with b16b head but im not sure, becaus b16b heads are pretty expensive
    what would the dif betweena b16a and b16b head be in running a crv vtec?
    how much hp/trq do stock b20b/z's put out?
     
  3. Thewiz666

    Thewiz666 Member

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    A B20B comes from a 97-98 CRV with 126HP and 133Tq.

    A B20Z comes from a 99-01 CRV with 146HP and 133Tq.

    Other than that, I don't understand your other questions... I'm a noob as well.

    Anyone know what this 'warn' gauge thing is on the left under my name and info?
     
  4. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    90-93 USDM Integra's came with the YS1 transmission, you got ass raped! Did he use much lube?
     
  5. Bl6CRX

    Bl6CRX Senior Member

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    b20z has high compression, better for all motor setups...
     
  6. Thewiz666

    Thewiz666 Member

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    What part of this is where the raping occured? Maybe he said YS1, and I just heard the s1 perhaps. If there's more to it than this, let me know more info so I can tactfully do an informed confrontation if something is indeed amiss.
     
  7. cointelpro

    cointelpro Senior Member

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    um.. if i were going to do a b20 drop ide do a b20a5 from an old prelude si, it has less HP but you will not need an OBD conversion for it, savings of a nice couple hundred, plus it will be a cheaper motor to buy because its older. so if your mechanic chose the b20z, ide agree he is raping you. if i were you what i would do right now is stop any business with that foo, sell your b20 swap, and go buy a zc and put a header intake on it with the extra money you got from the b20.
     
  8. Thewiz666

    Thewiz666 Member

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    AFAIK, the initial 1400 covers all labor on anything from start to finish for this whole ordeal, including the mounts. He has told me that there is no additional labor cost for the VTEC head install so long as I do it before this project ends, I'm just responsible for the price of the head... which I am welcome to accompany him to the dealer where he's getting it. Once the motor is in though, labor would be charged later down the road if I decided to do it.

    What causes me worry is just that... not disclosing the parts costs at the start of this. I do like that there's a lifetime guarantee on his work, and he has a fabulous reputation of about 15 years with tons of customers here in town.

    I may be just having a huge case of 'sticker shock', especially with the constant pile of parts costs that keep building up. But yeah, I understand your point.

    Thanks for the advice, keep it coming...
     
  9. BseriesKllR

    BseriesKllR Senior Member

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    Once i heard vtec on my friends b16a i was commited :D but i know that the b16a and itr head are the same both stamped pr3...but the itr head is hand ported and has better cams. the sound of a B20z with a ITR head and just looking at it in my head with that beatiful red valve cover and a cf spark plug cover....ok im getting carried away but i say get a b16a head rather then a itr head its cheaper. trustme when you finish the engine you will do this to your mechanic :worthy:
     
  10. hammerdgolfer

    hammerdgolfer Senior Member

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    or how about a b20z with a b16b(ctr) head, that would be pretty nice

    hey whats the deal, i heard putting a b18c1 head on a b18c5 would lower the compression and be better for boost, ? why would the gsr be lower compression than the itr? im a noob sorry for the dumb question
     
  11. radnulb

    radnulb Senior Member

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    hammergolfr: combustion chamber size - gsr is smaller, higher compression. If you don't understand that, RTFM or make your own thread.

    cointelpro: STFU and post your ignorance elsewhere. B20A and B21A motors lean differently than b20B/Z motors, and they don't go into CRXes as well. BAD SWAP. Additionally 95mm stroke = shitty R/S ratio and they blow the fuck up when beaten and revved. I blew up two. trust me.

    199IntegraBuildUpH22A3: I've actually seen a wide variety of tranny codes on 90-93 Integras. The tranny on my LS in the CRX right now is marked "A1" and came off a 90 teg GS w/ ABS. The tranny on my homie's JDM B16A1 is marked "S1" The tranny on my other homie's 92 GSR is marked "YS1" ... Any cable tranny that mates up properly will work, and in many cases a JDM S1 will be more desirable than a US LS tranny due to gearing. Check your ignorance before you start saying ppl got fucked.

    thewiz666: it sounds to me like you have a pushy mechanic. Do what makes you happy. I urge you to try the car with a B20Z swap for a while and beef up the suspension (if you haven't already) before you go spending another $1400 on the vtec headswap. Additionally, although it is a good idea to replace the water pump when you do a swap period, the B20B/Z actually use the same pump as the ITR/GSR. No advantage in replacing it beyond knowing it was done and not worrying about it for 60,000 miles. Don't be swindled there. Also, I don't know if your mechanic converted the car to OBD1 or used a OBD0 LS ECU or what, but you'd benefit a lot from a chipped ECU with that motor setup. Make sure you get your original ECU from your mechanic - don't let him keep it. See www.pgmfi.org for help chipping it yourself, or contact me.
     
  12. Thewiz666

    Thewiz666 Member

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    Where would I find the necessary items to make the switch to OBD1? Do people sell them on here? What items are necessary? What is a good deal in regards to price? Sorry, they just keep coming...

    Yet another thing(s) to add to the pile of costs I wasn't informed of up front... HELP!
     
  13. D See 2

    D See 2 Senior Member

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    why switch to obd1 stay obd0...
     
  14. Thewiz666

    Thewiz666 Member

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    Mainly from the cost of the OBD0 distributor being close to $300 itself from what I've heard. Somehow I'm under the impression that OBD1 things are generally about half the cost... perhaps I'm wrong.
     
  15. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    half the cost for newer OBD doubt it mang, hey I got a number to a junkyard that I bought my Distributor from for $65, I cant remember the name but it's out in Odessa, hit me up on AIM and i can give you the number.... integra1990racer lata'
     
  16. DA69

    DA69 Senior Member

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    you can find distributors on here or on ebay for around 100 bux. it would be worth it to stay obd 0. it much easier on your wallet. also with the money you saved on that you could get a b16a first gen head. the b20 ls/vtec rules all. it would be a tourque beast. you can find a head with intake manifold, valve cover and distrib for like 500. look on the forsale or trade on this website, there is always people selling these or even on ebay. i mean if mechanic is doing all of the work for the same price either way. you may as well get your moneys worth out of him. this way its gaurenteed to :D
     
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