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Back to square one.

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by Import R, May 27, 2004.

  1. Import R

    Import R Senior Member

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    For those who missed my original post.... (Read HERE)

    I swapped in the DX harness and it ran fine. Now today it started back with the same electrical problems. My fuel pump whines as if I was turning a wheel to generate its power. It whines at about the same rate an A/F guage would when you are idling and it goes rich to lean.

    At the same time my instrument panel, headlights, and tailights all flicker at the same rate. My SRS light is constantly on so I know my instrument panel flickers during the day even when I don't have my lights turned on.

    I am thinking it could be a ground, but I'm fairly sure I checked them all.

    3 grounds in engine bay: valve cover, transmission, thermostat.
    And I also made sure the fuel pump was grounded correctly. It is grounded with various other wires to the chassis at the left front of the drivers seat bracket.

    Are there any other major components that are being grounded on the interior that I should check? The engine harness I placed back in has no soldered connections or loose/bare wires. I checked all other engine bay wires to make sure they were not grounding out. If it's not a ground issue, I'm seriously lost at this point. :spin: :unsure:
     
  2. Riley37

    Riley37 Member

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    On your previous post someone mentioned that you should check your alternator. I used to rebuild them. It is very common for an alternator to cause wierd electrical issues. The fading in and out at a constant rythmic pace is a common symptom of a faillng alternator. Fuel system and other electrical components often tie into the alternator voltage regulator. Basically if the voltage regulator is failing you can be getting intermitted charging, hence the pulsating electrics. A failing diode can put out a load moaning sound, or low pitched whine. One way to check the diodes is to first turn everything electrical off in the car, (stereo, lights, a/c, etc...). Then start the car, get out, listen to the engine (not sure were the alternator is on the EG top or bottom, but you can use a long screw driver put on the back side of the alternator and put your ear to the handle-stethiscope). Now turn on the lights, stereo, fan any thing electrical. Listen for a change in the noise coming from the alternator. If you have a bad diode you will here it. The best way to check the voltage regulator is to take the alternator to autozone (or where ever) , have them put it on a tester. They can check the voltage and do a load test to check the output, should be around 70 amps if I am not mistaken maybe a little more.

    If you have a multimeter you can do some test at home (no load test though). Using your dc setting, check the voltage with the engine off, should be around 12.3-12.6 volts +/-. Next start the car, the voltage should now be bewteen 13.8-14.30 +/-. There will be small fluctionation, but should not exceed .25-.50 volts. Anymore and you have a problem.

    While your at it, have the battery load tested. Even if the alternator is good, it won't stay for long if you have a bad battery.

    If the alternator is bad, you may be able to repair it yourself. It will likely be a denso or mitsubishi, the rotors and stators are pretty solid and rarely burn up. The voltage regulators will go bad before most anything else. The voltage regular screws on to the back, and is easy to replace. Make sure you get new brushes and look at the stator winding, they should be orange or red, not deep red or purple (that means theyare burned up). The Rectifier (diodes) are also on the back (the stator leads attach to them-either 3 or 4 leads). Also relatively simple to replace. Should not cost anymore than 50 bucks. You can probably pick a rebuilt unit, but that may cost as much as $200. Don't buy an autozone rebuilt unit-they're crap, who cares about a life time warrenty if you have replace in 2months. I would find a good local rebuilder, and have them rebuild it.

    Your alternator can still be charging with the above problems, but it will not be charging properly

    I maybe completely wrong on what is causing your specific problems, but it's worth checking.

    If have anymore questions let me know.

    Good luck.

    Mike
     
  3. Import R

    Import R Senior Member

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    Well I thought it might have been from my aftermarket fuel pump install. So today I went ahead and used the connector that came with the fuel pump. I went ahead and also sanded down the ground on the fuel pump bracket just in case the ground wasn't clean enough. I then hot wired the fuel pump to the battery to make sure it wasnt causing the problem. The fuel pump wound up fine and didn't fluctuate even once. While still hotwired, I went ahead and started the car. As soon as I did, the fuel pump started back with its constant whining. It totally threw a curve at me as I was dead set on my problem originating from my fuel pump.

    Thanx for the tip on the alternator. I am using the JDM alternator, but I might try throwing my stock alternator back on just as a test. I never had this problem with the old motor. It has only been since I put the swap in. Regardless, I am also going to take the alternator in to autozone as you suggested.

    I generally dislike chasing down electrical issues. As far as the alternator rebuld (if I need it), I will try and tackle it myself. I have never done it, but it seems as though it should be rather straight forward. If not, I know a guy at a local shop that does good work. I might have him take a look at it and give me a price to rebuild. I will let you know how everything turns out on Sunday. I have to work most of Saturday and might not make it to the autostore to get the alternator checked.
     
  4. Riley37

    Riley37 Member

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    Your hotwire of the fuel pump would work fine when the engine is off. That is because, what ever is causing your problem is only drawing on the electrical system when running. And therefore it would make sense that when you start the car the fuel pump begins to pulsate. I bet if put a mult-meter on your battery with the engine you will see the voltage fulctuating up and down with the corresponding pulsating electrics. Your symptoms describe an intermitted charging condition to a tee. But it's also likely there is another culprit. Maybe the fuel injection, don't know for sure. I would suggest starting with the simplest systems and working up.

    Hope you can solve your problems
     
  5. Import R

    Import R Senior Member

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    I was hoping I had another dist. laying around, but it was from a 6th gen civic and the plug is different. Looks like I'm gonna have to either buy a new one or try the rebuild you outlined. Either way, I should have it replaced by tomorrow and I will let you know if it fixed the problem.
     
  6. Import R

    Import R Senior Member

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    :worthy: w00t. the new alternator fixed it. now all i gotta do is get my wiring done for the nitrous and im g2g. thanx for the help, you are a life saver! :worthy:
     
  7. Riley37

    Riley37 Member

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    Great to hear! Let me know how the Nitro goes.

    So were you able to determine if it was the regulator or Diodes? Did you repair yours or just buy a new one?
     
  8. Import R

    Import R Senior Member

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    Gotta wait on the next paycheck before I can get time on the dyno to tune for the nitrous. Deciding on if i want to run the 50 shot or go all the way up to the 75 shot. I think I will just start at 50 and see how that works out.

    As for the alternator, the guy at autozone was new, and the other guy working with him was busy with other people. So I never got a chance for them to test it. I just broke down and grabbed a (remanufactured) new alternator. It's got a warranty, so if it breaks its on their dime.
     
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