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Bad brakes

Discussion in 'Wheels / Suspension / Tires / Brakes' started by VTECPOWER, Jun 21, 2005.

  1. VTECPOWER

    VTECPOWER Senior Member

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    The crx's brakes are bad, i have to press the pedal all the way to the floor to get them to grab, so far ive replaced, front pads, rear drum pads, rear hydraulic wheel cylinder, had to make rear brake lines, fine no leaks-used a pipe bender, and also replaced the master cylinder, and the brakes still suck! I have bled all corners where no air comes out, what could this be? The only thing i can think of it the brake booster?
    Any idea's?
     
  2. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    def not the booster. the booster only assists your foot. if it was the booster, you'd know if, because you'd have to stand on th pedal to get it too move... unless your ARRRRnold. brake lines are like 2000 psi. lol

    chances are, your rear drum is so far out of alignment, that the fronts won't grab like they should before the ppv sees the proper split.
     
  3. VTECPOWER

    VTECPOWER Senior Member

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    wow i really didnt understand what you just said, what exactly do i need to do?
     
  4. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    Did you bleed the master cylinder? If not probably air still in the system. It take a lot of fluid to push it to the back of the car and out.......
     
  5. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    sorry, that post sucked in terms of english. :emofo:
    lol


    anyway, what i was getting at, is that the rear drums on civics are supposed to be self-adjusting. unfortunately, they suck at this.

    put the drum off, and get in there and tighten 'em down.
     
  6. VTECPOWER

    VTECPOWER Senior Member

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    I did the bench bleeding for the master cylinder, and bled all 4 corners til all the air was gone out of the lines.
    What exactly do I tighten down in the drums? I.E: where?
     
  7. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    To get the shoes inside the drum you had to turn the self adjuster so it was in (retracted). Then upon use it will extend so the travel to contact and braking is short. Pissed off is saying to go in and manually adjust it out some so the drum just fits over the brake shoes.

    I have had to do that on several cars though the years......
     
  8. VTECPOWER

    VTECPOWER Senior Member

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    what do i adjust? the long bar thing on the lower side of the drums? and adjust it outwards?
     
  9. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    yeah, screw it until you can BARELY get the cover back on. like, use a rubber mallet to get it back on.
     
  10. VTECPOWER

    VTECPOWER Senior Member

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    Ok, those have been adjusted and the brakes are still shitty, they grab very close to the floor, i dont know what else to check, anyone have suggestions?
    Also like i said previously all of the corners have been bled.
     
  11. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    explain you bleeding process.

    It can only be a few things, leaks, air or the master cylinder is bad.
     
  12. VTECPOWER

    VTECPOWER Senior Member

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    loosen the bleeder, press down and hold brake, tighten bleeder, let up brake pedal, all of this with the master cyl cap off, re fill brake fluid in cylinder.
     
  13. VTECPOWER

    VTECPOWER Senior Member

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    Oh yea, and the master cylinder is brand new.
     
  14. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    when bleeding you want to pump the brakes a few times and then hold the pedal firmly before opening the bleeder. then when you open it, dont close it til your foot hits the floor, o right before it hits the floor. do that about 2-3 times per corner in the proper order, and you should be good.
     
  15. VTECPOWER

    VTECPOWER Senior Member

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    What exactly is the proper order? Can't remember.
     
  16. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    That was just covered in another thread, but I always start Right rear, Left Rear, Right Front , Left Front. Never had a issue with that.

    I don't know that it make a difference but I always close the bleeder before the pedal stops. I want the fluid moving not stagnet.
     
  17. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    yeah, pretty much your going to start with the one furthest from the master cylinder.

    do exactly as GSRCRX said
     
  18. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    i guess it depend on what car you have. my integra helms says left rear, right front, right rear, left front. my crx manual is differnt though, i dont know off hand though. but with the crx, ive never had a problem with farthest from master to closest either.
     
  19. Citizen_Insane

    Citizen_Insane Senior Member

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    For the CRX, the bleeding order is:
    Left Front, Right Rear, Right Front, Left Rear
    (Straight from the Helms)
     
  20. VTECPOWER

    VTECPOWER Senior Member

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    Thanks man, i have to buy a new alternator, i buy one for a 1990 integra correct? because i am obd0, then i will bleed the brakes again, also i bought the fuel rail and fpr off of a guy here on hondaswap. After that i should be good, only throwing that ground code, i think my ground in the fuse box is bad because i tried placing a ground in there for my gauges/tach and it didnt work, i had to relocate it, where does that ground go to in the engine harness?
    And yesterday i got the tach wired and mounted where i want it, looks pretty nice!
     
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