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best cams for b18a?

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by SleEPeR_CRX, Jul 29, 2003.

  1. SleEPeR_CRX

    SleEPeR_CRX Senior Member

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    hey guys what are the best cams for a b18a? i was reading milan's post about cams, and he said what i was thinking, go with 403's and get some crower spring's and retainers. any1 else have any insight into the subject?
     
  2. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    Please help us better answer your question by providing more details about your setup and/or your problem.

    For example, please post the following:
    • car: year, make, model, trim
    • engine / transmission / ecu
    • basic mods list that applies or may apply to your question
    • fuel management, etc, and anything else that may apply to your question.
    Also, please specify what is wrong or what you need help with EXACTLY. Doing this will help you get a better answer to your question.

    Thanks,
    The Moderating Team
     
  3. bectondavis

    bectondavis Member

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    I would go with either Crower or Skunk2. They seem to be good companys. Crower makes a B18 line so they'd be my first choice. Let the B18 breath and you'll love the power. Cams add more horspower than most modifications so get a good set and get the retainers and springs. A MUST!
     
  4. lsvtec

    lsvtec GNU/Linux Evangelist

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    ;)
    Skunk2 doesn't make cams for non-VTEC engines.
     
  5. SleEPeR_CRX

    SleEPeR_CRX Senior Member

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    Ok well for B and the rest of u all,

    I drive a 1990 CRX Si, with a b18a Swap.

    Im running b18a using stock ECU, with stock LS tranny, soon to have a ACT HD clutch/ pressure plate, with lightened integra flywheel.

    right now i have the following parts: Intake, 2.25" exhaust.

    Fuel management, i have an Air/fuel ration gauge. thats pretty much all i go by right now to tell if im running lean or rich.

    im looking to buy soon:
    4-2-1 Header 9(clearance issues with 4-1)
    Cams ( thats where u guys come in and help)
    FPR if needed
    would like new valve train, springs/retainers ( i think i can get a crower 403 cam set with valve train for 850 bucks canadian)
    like to do some headwork.

    Looking to buy later
    Sleeve cylinders,
    Throw a small 35-55 shot on it.
    If i can find a good chipped ECU, ill buy 1 too.

    The car is a Friday night dragracer, and occational fun on the road car, i never street race its stupid, but occationally i will open it up. im shooting for high 13's or low 14's before i give it some juice. i want to keep it streetable because its my daily, and do this all on a lower salary. im asking these questions b/c i will have about 1500 after my clutch gets in, and i might have a header lined up for 100 bucks, so i will have about 1500 to spend after that. cams are top on my list right now. hope this helps B.
     
  6. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    You don't need to go through the expense and headache of resleeving your engine if those are the mods you're planning. Cams and a mild shot of nitrous- your stock block can handle that without any issues at all. Just take it to a dyno and get it tuned well.
     
  7. exospeed*com

    exospeed*com Member

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  8. SleEPeR_CRX

    SleEPeR_CRX Senior Member

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    i didnt ask u to sell me ur cams, so please dont, if u think ur cams are the best, then say that, dont be a salesman here please, we dont need it. this refers to the IM thread as well.
    and for Celesta or any1 else that can answer without selling me shit, will a 34-50 shot ruin my engine, be it rings or seals or valve train? ive heard i should get better valve train and seals/rings if im going nitrous or else ill be blowing blew in a few months. i wanna keep engine running strong, so if nitrous is going to kill it then its outa teh question.
     
  9. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    calesta is right... there is no need to sleeve that motor at all.

    bill ran a 55 shot on the cx 8-valve motor for a couple months, and never had a problem with it.
    I think the 403s will suit you well. with a 50 shot on it, you will have a low 13 sec car most likely.

    maybe do some b16 pistons to up compression as well?
     
  10. bectondavis

    bectondavis Member

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    Pissedoff has a great point. Compression for the b18 is at 9:2 and the b16 will bump it up to 10:?, almost a full point. That is inexpensive also. The pistons run for about $45 a piece from honda (Domed is what you are looking for). Rings are about another $100 or so. Do this and cams and you'll be an all out motor with some balls.
     
  11. saturn_boy96

    saturn_boy96 88 C1V1C 53D4N DR1V3R

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    yeah, if your really worried about blowing up your motor just get a wet shot single fogger. it will automatically supply the extra fuel you will need, and as long as your not hitting the button every time you press the accelerator and going through a bottle a day, that motor should be just fine.
     
  12. SleEPeR_CRX

    SleEPeR_CRX Senior Member

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    sounds good boys, today i think im going out to buy a 4-2-1 header from a guy around here, used for 100 bucks canadian so like 75 bucks US, seen pictures its in mint shape. So right now my future build consists of


    CAI
    2.25" exhaust
    4-2-1 DC header
    crower 403's with 403 retainers and springs.
    b16a domed pistions with rings
    14lb lightned LS flywheel with ACT Clutch and pressure plate.
    Possibly PNP my head and 3-5 angle my valve( i can get valves for cheap so may as well)

    then i still got nitrous to worry about.

    i was thinking a 35 shot, b/c its inexpensive easy to hook up and wont kill my engine, but if what u say is true about the wet shot, how much is it? and ease of installation? also, i want it on a switch, not when my pedal is all the way down, cuase im at WOT alot:)
     
  13. saturn_boy96

    saturn_boy96 88 C1V1C 53D4N DR1V3R

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    most of the nitrous setups i have seen are setup only to be used at WOT

    the reason is so you can't run into a lean burn(run out of fuel, there is less of a chance at WOT)

    anyway thats just a primer switch you still have the toglle switch inside to manually control the juice, but if you hit the switch and are not at WOT nothing will happen, kind of like a fail safe.

    going from a 35 shot to a 50 shot is only a nozzle selection away.
     
  14. SleEPeR_CRX

    SleEPeR_CRX Senior Member

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    well the reason i said 35 shot is b/c someone on here said that they got a 35 shot with 1.2 or 1.4L bottle for 200-300 bucks, which is a good price, i dont need to hAvE n0s y0! i just need a lil something to get the b18 going, also the kid with the 35 shot said, the kit came with a lil button that went under the peddle so at WOT it worked, i dont want that, i want a switch so i can drive normally at WOT and not have to worry about it until im at the track or some mustang thinks hes fast.
     
  15. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    The button under your gas pedal won't do a damn thing unless the system is armed. You're not spraying all the time, don't worry.
     
  16. SleEPeR_CRX

    SleEPeR_CRX Senior Member

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  17. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    B16 head runnin no vtec and toda vtec killer cams :)


    go with crower
     
  18. SleEPeR_CRX

    SleEPeR_CRX Senior Member

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    crower 403's with titanium springs and retainers are in the mail. ill let u know how it turns out when i get them in;)>
     
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