Best front anti-sway bar

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

W

webink_EK9

Senior Member
I didn't see a front anti sway bar on neuspeed or comptechs site. Anyone have any good suggestions for a good anti sway bar?

Here's what i've ordered so far

Neuspeed
Part # Description Price Qty Actions

35.20.72P Front Upper Tie Bar - Polished $139.95

45.20.17P Front Lower Tie Bar - Polished $219.95

45.20.74P Rear Lower Tie Bar - Polished $99.95

80.20.14P Rear Upper Tie Bar - Polished $259.95

Ship Weight : 45 lb(s)

Parts Total : $719.80


Comptech
Sway Bar/Clear Tie Bar--rear 140-130CLR $399.00 $399.00

Sub Total $399.00


I think the only one I'll need is the front antisway bar.
Let me know!
 
you've got some really good stuff there B)

i would probably just go with an oem bar from a 99-00 si, but i'm an oem kinda guy. it's 2mm thicker than one from an ex. i forget the thickness #s off hand. it will do you justice. you'll need the brackets, bolts, endlinks, and get some es poly bushings for it.

and the entire es master kit is a great mod also (includes the swaybar bushings too).
 
with all those polished suspension parts do you plan on drivng your car? Becuase the lowers especially will not be polished for long. A ctr front sway bar is something you may want to look into. I know that it is beefier than all other stock bars, but not sure about the aftermarket scene.
 
I don't give a crap about polished...I could do that or all black, it makes no difference to me at all. Polished just means its not painted to me. As long as its stiff, thats all that matters. Forget the show aspect of the parts....all function.
 
Originally posted by webink_EK9@Mar 14 2004, 08:55 AM
what is es master?
Click to expand...

ES = Energy Suspension

Master = Master kit,

it is a kit sold by them that replaces most of you stock rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings, and IMO it will make more of a difference than all the bars you have listed, with the exception of the Comptech rear sway. Unfortunely they master kit doesn't include the rear trailing arm bushings, you have to buy those seperate.
 
Originally posted by 92b16vx@Mar 14 2004, 04:06 AM
Unfortunely they master kit doesn't include the rear trailing arm bushings, you have to buy those seperate.
Click to expand...

mine did. some do some don't.... i think there's different ones, older and newer. my friends kit didn't have them, mine and another friends did. ??

i didn't install them anyway. going to get some mugen bushings for the TA. the es TA bushings are too hard give you terrible bump steer. there is indeed such a thing as too stiff.

and if a ctr bar is beefier than an si, it's probably not worth the $$$. you could get an equal sized aftermarket bar for cheaper. the oem si bar is the best bang for the buck.

if you do decide to go aftermarket, consider the bar diameter, but also the length of the part of the bar that connects the endlinks to the long part. shorter is stiffer. but too stiff will create understeer. i'm not sure if that part of all aftermarket bars are all the same length because of the chassis design or not.

--|
| <--- this part
|-------------------|

if i were you, i would hold off on the front sway - you may not even want to run one, like many others. install all your other stuff first, and see how the car feels. actually, do it one piece at a time. this way you know what is causing what, and will have a much easier time sorting out your suspension. :) i'd do the comptech bar first. slapping everything on at once is gonna be night and day. if the car doesn't do what it's told, you're not gonna know what's causing the problem.
 
damn i can't believe none of us noticed this. :eek: i hope you didn't buy that neuspeed rear lower tie bar yet. the comptech anti-sway bar has a subframe brace that works as a kick ass tie bar, so you don't need that neuspeed one.

i just saved you $100. i'll take my 10% finders fee now please. :p
 
Originally posted by jwn7@Mar 14 2004, 09:57 PM
damn i can't believe none of us noticed this. :eek: i hope you didn't buy that neuspeed rear lower tie bar yet. the comptech anti-sway bar has a subframe brace that works as a kick ass tie bar, so you don't need that neuspeed one.

i just saved you $100. i'll take my 10% finders fee now please. :p
Click to expand...

Snizap, good catch yO!!
 
and one more thing
my neuspeed lower front tie bar would not clear my JDM ITR 4-1 header in my sol

but as far as the front sway goes.... give it a shot without it at first .... if the car is too tail happy then get an OEM front bar
 
I need a lower front bar that will clear my header too- any ideas?

I like my Eibach front sway bar... 26mm of fun.
 
Yeah...I was thinking about that today...I ordered two of the same thing (should have asked first.) I can give that to a friend of mine thats putting together an ek. No big deal though. So you don't think the lower front tie will work? That sucks. Oh well, I can still give it a shot. I'm going to give these upgrades a shot and see what I think...hell from what I read, these should be an easy install and I'll probably give it a shot myself. I'm putting together a full list of the stuff I've ordered in the past few days, I'll post it up and let me know if there's any other stuff that I don't need or ordered too many of.
 
The list and need to get list.

ORDERED

Neuspeed
Part # Description Price Qty Actions

35.20.72P Front Upper Tie Bar - Polished $139.95

45.20.17P Front Lower Tie Bar - Polished $219.95

45.20.74P Rear Lower Tie Bar - Polished $99.95 (DOH!)

80.20.14P Rear Upper Tie Bar - Polished $259.95

Ship Weight : 45 lb(s)

Parts Total : $719.80


Comptech
Sway Bar/Clear Tie Bar--rear 140-130CLR $399.00

Sub Total $399.00


Toda
High Power Clutch Kit (full face and lightweight fly wheel) DC2 B18C $970

Fightex FS Coil Overs Civic EK4/9 10k - 160 8k - 160 $2380.00

Sub Total $3350.00

Work Wheels
RSZ-R 15x7.0 44 4-100 10 lbs $1099.00

Sub Total $1099.00

Hoosier
R3S03 Size:225/50-15 Heat Cycled ZR Speed Rated Price: $194.00

Sub Total $776.00

Total
$6343.80


I'll still need a cage, roof scoop, custom exhaust/muffler, removable steering wheel, two race/street seats, harnesses, a CTR cluster and radio/climate console. Oh yeah, then a paint job. That should do me for an autoX car.

Anything else I may need without taking the motor apart?
 
baller. ;)

well ... i bet i could build a better autox car for a good bit less $$, but i assume you've done your homework, and decided on these parts with good reason. don't be fooled into thinking that you can just spend a lot of $$$ and automatically have a good handling car, as 'you get what you pay for' can sometimes be a tremendous fallacy. but this is besides the point ....

since you're asking these questions, i assume this is your first attempt at an autox car? or am i wrong? either way, you seriously should do it one thing at a time. that's a huge suspension list. good luck figuring out what to do if you're not satisfied. :unsure: more importantly, you won't know how to drive it at all. if you do it gradually, you'll learn the car and how it reacts to the mods, instead of just blindly jumping in head first. seriously take that with a few grains of salt. i personally ended up pulling mods off and learning the car, because i did a coilovers / anti-sway bars / bushings in one day, and was unhappy with it, couldn't figure out what was doing what, and couldn't drive it for shit. i put everything back to stock (except for bushings), worked back one at a time, found out what's going on, and my times are decent. :)

also consider some sort of camber and toe adjustment. avoid the skunk2, spc is a decent one. there was a kick ass kit i saw a while back for about $900, but i forget the name. besides good tires, and shocks, alignment specs are the third most important part of your suspension.

i recommend the ES master bushing kit. $130, and the car really tightens up a good bit. i'd compare it to going from a flashlight to a laser pointer. have fun with the install though, i certainly did. <_< if you don't do your own work, expect to pay a shop about $500.

also, if you're running slicks just for autox, you definately want some 20" ones. slap them on some 13" wheels and holy shit. your final drive will go from 4.4 to about 5.3 :eek:. very noticeable jump in acceleration. www.f-body.org/gears/ play around with the tire size, and look at the shift points. huge difference. imagine that with an upgraded valvetrain. you'll drop into about 6500 +/- in each gear. :D
 
a few friends of mine suggested renting out our road course for a day and doing test and tune with all those mods done at once and learn how to drive it like it was a new car. i haven't driven that car in 3 years and its not like i'm used to it or anything. i'll for sure put the stuff on one by one and and drive it around and get a feel for each mod. i just don't plan on streeting the car all that much.
I appreciate the feedback. I am learning so much. Yeah this is my first autox car.
 
13SR20_J25.gif


Part number four is an altentive oit doesn't tie the LCAs, but it does tie both sides the crossmember thingy. I put one on, and maybe it was all in my head, but it felt stiffer around turns. And since it goes above everything it is going to clear everything.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top