Best Swap for a 12 second 1/4th mile car?

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Not really... an NA engine is under stress from the high compression ALL the time, while an FI engine is only under additional stress when it's boosting. For drag racing on a daily driver, forced induction is the way to go.
 
well i have a crx right now with a few mods but i think that the b18 is to epensive compared with the h22 since im getting more from the h22. and with that swap id be in the low 14's stock
 
you have a crx? Its gonna take alot of modifacation to the engine bay to get in the H22, but it will be worth it!
 
reply to your 12 second Question

hey man whats up just goin threw the site and saw your Question well here is an answer for you.. first ur picking a 1.8 or could you deal with a 1.6 last summer i picked up a Turbo b16 in an 91 civic stright T4 turbo tuned all Stalk inturnels msd 6 plus and a 74mill wast gate.. Realy small neways at 9 psi it was pushing 267WHP 188tork and at 13 psi it was Running 314Whp 227tork Doing 11.22 11.30 and an 11.27so if that helps you out at all let me know.. tuned bye Splitfire performance


what would be the best swap for the money to reah the 12's?
ive been thinking about the b18c1, b20, or h22. any engine i get id be dropping about another 5 thousand into it but dont know what to pick from these 3. need some help
 
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thats alot of bickering about the k20 motor.

this is my 2 cents......get a b20a or a b20z block, get forged rods,pistons,chromoly rings and arp main and rod bolts and call the block done. then put a nice ported and polished head on it, with at least a 3 angle valve job, with crower 403 cams, dual valve springs and retainers and ferrera valves. call the head done. then if you like you can get a 70mm bbk throttle body with a skunk2 intake manifold or you can just go with the 50mm twm individual throttle bodies and call that done....that will get you into low 13's or even high 12's all motor and if you want to have more fun, throw on a bottle of nitrous and run 100 shot if you like cause you already forged the bottom end. best of both worlds....good luck and have fun.....read my signature, i'm doing something right!
 
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well.. hte cars are so light.. all you need is 200HP to get to the 13's thats not exactly impossible N/A

its still awesome! but its not too hard to beleive..
i'd go N/A build.. then spray it later if you wanna go faster..

but im a muscle car guy lol
 
im gonna get turbo...screw nos...turbo all the way! 13 seconds is too slow for me :p im shooting for 11 second range
 
im gonna get turbo...screw nos...turbo all the way! 13 seconds is too slow for me :p im shooting for 11 second range

i don't trust somebody who uses the term "nos" to build an 11 second car. it's called nitrous. "nos" is a brand. just like "kleenex", "fiberglass", and "coke" are brands that have been bastardized and associated with the aforementioned products.
 
shoot all you want bro, but 11 second daily drivers are usually pretty impractical.

nitrous at least gives you a car that is drivable every day, and the car will still haul at the track (if you size your nozzles right)
 
lol
ok well im sorry that i didnt use the correct term...and 11 seconds down the strip is just what my goal is. I may not acheive it but close is good too..and turbo dont always have to run full boost..so you know what im saying? im not gonna run my car to be 11 seconds all the time...just when i turn the boost up its gonna hopefully get in the 11's if possible...is what im hoping for :D
 
its definitely possible, just saying if you build your motor correctly, nitrous is a viable option for a quick fix at the track. As i said in a different thread, there is a C6 Vette that goes to the track every day with a 200 shot and new piston rings. He runs nearly every weekend and has had no problems since we got open track days in may (i think) and he sprays every run.
 
i thought nitrous mess up motors i guess if its only stick or not tuned
 
i thought nitrous mess up motors i guess if its only stick or not tuned

it all depends on how you build it. it's just like adding a turbo or supercharger. you have to have the right parts in combination with a good tune. again, it's like other stuff, too much of anything is bad.
 
nitrous messing stuff up is a myth from ricers who "throw" NAWZ on a car and call it done. A lot of times they will "save" money with a dry nitrous system instead of getting a DPI system. DPI is safer because you know you are getting the right mix of fuel and nitrous...unlike dry/wet systems that just shoot stuff in there and hope each cylinder gets equal ammounts.

DPI is your friend, but you cant trust the manufacturer, take it to the dyno, run 2 sizes over on fuel and retest with smaller sizes till you get it right. once you have it right, leave it alone. I like to recommend people put new piston rings on their engines because nitrous has a habit of making rings touch or overlap causing engines to explode.

If you take the proper precautions, nitrous can be just as effective and reliable as a turbo or supercharger.
 
well put reikoshea! the piston rings you want for nitrous are chromoly rings. out here on the island we have a 1979 datsun 510 with a nissan frontier motor and he is shooting 150 shot of nitrous and he can with the built bottom end. i prefer all motor personally. but good luck on your build hope we have all been some help.
 
i have a 93 ls integra and im runnin a 100 shot on a bonestock motor.....no troubles for me but i am usin 450cc dsm injectors and a walrbo 255lph fuel pump and a NX dry shot kit....The fogger on it is nice cuz it hooks to your fuel line and your nitrous line and mixes it in the fogger so its equals itself out
 
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