Best Turbo Most Power For The Money

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thanks for all the info but i was simple wondering what is the best cluch for around 3-4 hundred dollars, and also i called i think it was i atp racing or something like that they say they dont have a set up for that motor what would i need and need to do to get a setup with the gt30/ customized down pipe exaust manifold (what) i want a bad ass turbo but i cant find a complete set up all i can find is little t3/ t04 turbos and t25 and stupid shit like that i saw an 18g complete setup but no front mount so i would have to buy my own (no prob) but it said it was 97 and up mine 92-96 please help:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
clutch for 300 whp H22

Always plan for more power than you think you will want. Exedy, Clutch Masters, ACT, etc. all can make good clutches for your power level. As you know, it's more expensive to build something and then rebuild for more power later. Often stepping up a level or two on components (injectors, clutch, fuel pump etc.) will not cost more - can save labor too.
My Turbo setup was custom, done by a local shop. Kits usually require some mods on H22 swaps. Full Race, Greddy and others, make kits that you can mod.
I liked dealing with a local supplier because they took returns and stood behind their suppliers products. (it happened a few times on my build)
 
work in civic

i have one more ? i have a civic chasis and an h22, obviously i need an h22 turbo kit will the stock h22 turbo kit work with my chasis
 
On an H22 a GT30 with a.63 a/r would work well. 300 whp comes in @ about 8-10 psi. For higher boost with pump gas you can use Mahle gold series pistons. Other forged pistons do not work with the H22s FMR sleeves. The weakest point on the stock H22 is the ringlands. Make sure you have a decent engine management system. (Hondata, Chrome, Neptune etc.) Dyno tuning will help make it more reliable. AFRs should be in the 11.7 - 12.0 range. Timing is critical and probably 20 deg. or so max - but your tuner will need to figure out what works best for your particular application. With the H22 you will also have better torque than a comparable B series. It will make your car a lot more agreeable for low end pulls typical with street driving. Expect more engine vibration with the H, they are known for that. No need to ever use a block guard on a pre 97 H22. You can't use them and don't need them with the solid deck found on the 96 and earlier H.
 
Pistons, rods, and if youre not going sleeve the block i recommend using a Blockguard.
Now if you're a baller like me:p get yourself a gt35r turbo with .63ar for quick spool, 3" exhaust and dp, and a nice equal length turbo manifold. dont forget about the clutch.:D

Ohh and of course TUNING.



Good Luck!


Block guard FTL! Either sleeve the motor or leave it be till it blows up, don't waste time or money to crack open the motor if you're not going to do it right.

As far as turbo kits goes. I really liked my turbonetics kit. only things I needed to change were a custom downpipe and dump tube since the turbonetics downpipe/dump tube suck major balls.

add a Hondata ECU to the mix and a good boost controller and you're good to go.

oh don't forget the sleeves, pistons, rods, also make sure your head is in perfect working order. make sure the springs are as good as new, if any of them are weak, go ahead and replace the springs and retainers with something better.
 
GT30 or SC61 easily makes the power you are after. As mentioned, the weak point on a stock H22 is the ringlands. Around 300 whp is pushing them and it better be tuned right. Block gard is impossible on pre 97 H22s because they are solid, not open decks. Mahle gold series pistons can be used with stock H22 FMR sleeves but need to be honed and set up properly or you'll have problems. H's make great street cars as they have lots of early torque and are easy to drive without much shifting. A downside can be that they 'buzz' the car some and can be hard on axles due to the motor positioning needed for swapping them in. Stock H22s have made over 500 whp but this is a dyno queen on one run not a regularly used car.
92 CX, H22, sleeved, Arias pistons, Crower rods, Hondata S300, intercooler, etc.,etc. 465 whp @ 17 psi, 345 wtq - (325 whp @ 10 psi) - - Mustang dyno
 
boosted?

Okay, here is what I have learned being a DSMconvert. BIGGER IS NOT BETTER. IMO, you should pick up a 14b turbo that comes stock off the 1st gen TSI's and GSXes. They spool quick and kick hard. What comes into play is the blow off valve that you use. Some BOV's can only handel certian amounts of boost. I have had the best luck with the HKS SS BOV. I have yet to find the max out. The 14b turbo will support up to around 30psi of boost but if your running it that high it will die pretty quickly. If your running between 15 to 22 psi you should have years of trouble free use as long as you keep up on matinence. Another thing to consider is the fuel management system your going to use. Being that I am very new to Honda the best I have been able to find up to this point specificly made for Honda is the Hondata system. If I were to buy that system I would spring for the 300s and make sure you have a lap top to do the tunning off of. If you don't want to run the Hondata system the AEM FMU has always treated me very very well. It allows all tunning that you need and then some, but once again make sure you have a lap top to do the tunning. Upgrade your injectors no matter what to the stock 440cc injectors off the manual TSI Talon or GSX or TSI Eclipse. When it comes to the FMIC they are all pretty much the same. Don't get sucked in to the brand name junk because they all work very well. When it comes to the piping make sure everything sinks up well and tight. If you can get away with doing some light welding when your putting it together DO IT. The same when your hooking up your waist gait. If its external make sure you drop it down to your exaust and weld it in, if your running the waist gait off the turbo try to run it to your exaust as well. There is no reason to burn through one of your neoprean oil lines and blow your motor, turbo and anything else that needs oil.

Well, I hope that I have given some help and I also hope that Honda's are basicly the same as DSM's when it comes to turbo charging. Let us know how it goes once you get your turbo up and spooling. I would be currious to know how well it worked for you.

Also, if anyone is selling a Civic, CRX, or Integra that is a manual and 1000 miles or less distance to Dayton Ohio let me know. I am on the hunt and am wanting to buy bad. I am also looking for a ZEX Dry N2O kit to go along with it. Hope everyone is ready for summer..... Its almost time to have fun.

Dylan
 
Again you CAN'T use a block guard on a pre97 H22. Where would it go, it's a solid deck. Listen to someone with some H22 experience, - anyone! An SC61 works well and gives you lots of headroom. A Gt30 if you want a quicker spool and easy power.
 
boosted

what is the GT30 off of? I suggested the 14b because it is so tinny and a block guard wouldn't be in order to safely run boost. But anyway, I am still learning so what would be advantagious about running a set up off of the GT30 for the H22 motor? Dose the GT30 require less in the way of cooling, fuel, fuel management, piping, exct? I am just currious so I know in the future. Hope everyone is doing well.

Dylan
 
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