block guard or sleeves for 12-15psi

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ok i have money finally to build the b18c5 im getting je 9:1 comp pistons, eagle rods, cometic copper head gasket , arp headstuds, the fuel setup will be around 450cc with walboro fuel pump , aem fuel rail , and ignition will be msd high output coil , nology wires, i will have moroso 5qt oil pan, cam gears , fludyne rad. and flexalite fan also - if i want to run a daily 10-15psi should i run a block guard or go all out and get darton sleeves? if anyone has opinions on what a reliabe setup would be for 10-15psi daily let me know - thanks
 
also the turbo is turbonetics t3/t04e with equal length manifold , hks wastegate , xs engineering intercooler and some other things im prolly forgettin right now
 
why lower your compression?? ive heard and seen some itr motors running 10psi on stock compression with massive fuel tuning and a little ignition timing retard....

atleast i dont think you need to lower compression, i may be wrong.
 
If your going boost why not save some money and get a gsr swap? its a waste of money to boost a type r. In order to boost it you take out eveything that makes it a type r you payed extra for in the first place.

B18c>B18c5 for boost.
 
lol i already know this theory i know what a b18c5 is good for yes but im turboing it i got a bad ass deal on this motor from my best friend who totalld his type r so acually i would b spending more if i wouldve went with a gsr - but anyway back to my question i dont need told that the c5 isnt meant for boost i know this... also this is going to get tuned with hondata s200 any more takes...
 
the motor is fine for boost, and since you got it cheap, why not?

block gaurds suck.

If you have the money, and want lower risk- get it sleeved.
otherwise, don't run anything.
that's my opnion.
 
what do u guys think of keeping a stock bottom end , copper head gasket , and mad dyno tuning on hondata at payne tech. runnin everyday 10 psi???
 
keep the stock head gasket...
keep the stock pistons...
run 8 pounds instead of 10+ (due to the higher compression, you will make the same power)
tune it conservatively
 
Hey B? How do you know he should run 8 pounds instead of 10? Am i blind or do you know what turbo hes running?
 
I'm not convinced that copper is a good material for gaskets where thermal expansion is involved. When you torque the head down, it'll compress the copper gasket and seal the combustion chambers. When the engine is run and brought up to normal operating temps, the aluminum head and block will expand, compressing the gasket even more. However, when things cool down and the head and block contract, the copper gasket stays compressed, and won't seal properly anymore. However, they will hold up VERY well, but only for one warm up/ cool down cycle.

Block gaurds are so '99. The piston side loading is greatest about 1/3 to 1/2 way down the cylinder wall, and the gaurd won't do dookie if it's up at the very top. If you're too cheap to sleeve (you don't have to if you're only going to run 10 PSI), just stake the block.
 
new plan - cometic 79thousandths headgasket ( to bring me around gsr compression) any suggestions on good headgaskets???, arp headstuds , common fuel upgrades , common ignition upgrades, hondata s200 and some dyno tuning at payne tech. for around 7-10psi whats everyone think
 
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