Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by cbrnascar0329, Feb 21, 2003.
at how many lbs. of boost would installing a blockguard be adviseable....?
cylinders will be bored 10 over....i'm going to use eagle h beam rods with srp 10.5 comprsession pistons......i know compression is a little high but i think i can make it work and if and when i do turbo i'll switch to a thicker head gasket. the turbo will probably be t3/t4......i'm planning on running about 6 lbs. for daily driving but worried about when i take it to track. i'd like to be able to turn it to 10-12 lbs. with no worries. it will be tuned with hondatat or something equivalent......this is all on a b18a ls motor.......
I hear alot of mixed reviews on block guards. If I were you I would either invest that $ into tuning rather than the BG or save a little more and have your block sleeved.
any other comments or anyone with experience in this matter? opinions welcome.......
Ive heard of pretty serious cooling issues with those block gaurds if youre running big numbers constantly, and cooling is whats gunna kill your engine. Dsmers (dont kill me because i'm a fan, theyre nice cars) run 20lbs on 92 octane, no problem, they just cool the shit of everything. I'd say just build a water injection system and monitor your egt and ots when runnin hard and high. A self built water injection system should cost about the same as a blockgaurd. Check this out, http://members.aol.com/raydorman/ its written for dsms but it works on anything, great write up.
i've heard a lot about overheating problems with block guards so thats y i'm not going that way but resleeving is too much money so i've seen some people Pin their block....cant really find to much info on it yet but i'm still looking....i think they just put 12 and 10mm rods threw the gap where the water goes....and i heard that its better then the block guards cause it hold the sleeves from top to bottom where the block guards just protect the top...if anyone knows about this then let me know...i'm going to talk to my machine shop and i'll let u know what they say.
If you are going to boost the motor it would be a bad call to run a higher compression and fix the problem with a thicker head gasket. Block guards are insurance on lower boost. If you anticipate bigger numbers wait for sleeves or get a spare block. if you're going for streetable-proper tuning and not fucking with high rev limits-on that motor you should be fine.
as far as cooling goes the coolant passages they advertise to have machined into the blockguards don't work?
go lowerc omp pistons why buy higher comp then use a thicker gasket to lower?
man that water injection set up is fucking great someone did all the detective work for me no tracking down parts
it depends on the type of block guard you buy. theres a couple types. the str allows good cooling, but it doesn't hold well.
the nuformz design holds well, but blocks up the water wholes pretty bad.
the best way, is to run a nuformz, and drill out the water holes bigger. match them to the headgasket as best you can.
furthermore- the problem with block guards, is that 90% of the time, cracked sleeves start from the middle of the sleeve, where the rod is at it's worst angle-- pushing hard outward before easing out and more of a straigth up and down.
on the other hand, a reputible member here and on other sites has an otherwise bone stock ls with a block guard and fuel stuff/hondata putting down well over 400 horse for about a year with no trouble.
its a trade off. like all things.
oh- and allow me to spam -
if you do decide to go with the guard, i have a b-series nuformz bg for sale- brand new. pm me if you are interested.
blockguards are garbage, you need to have then welded in then you have to have your block decked. and yes there are cooling issues. it is a much better idea to have your block posted, i believe endyn and jg post their blocks. its much safer. personally if you arent running at least 15 lbs of boost block support is not really necessary.
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