Blown D16Z6 Vtec replacement?

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The light bulb is starting to come on but it is still dim. Both motors are OBD-1 MPFI. Is that the type of wiring?
 
The light bulb is starting to come on but it is still dim. Both motors are OBD-1 MPFI. Is that the type of wiring?

OBD stands for On Board Diagnostics. 88-91 is OBD0, 92-95 is OBDI, 96-on is OBDII. And yes it does have a lot to do with the wiring.
 
This one?

1884089933.jpg


I used this site and book while doing my swap and the info in both made it go very smoothly.
 
Well I do believe that's it. Does it tell about the different transmissions too? Both my Z6 and Z1 transmissions have bar code stickers on them. They both say S20 with a series of other numbers that are different. Are those other numbers serial numbers?
 
This one?

1884089933.jpg


I used this site and book while doing my swap and the info in both made it go very smoothly.
haahaaa thats it! i knew it was gonna show up on this thread!

thats a sick lookin engine too
block and tranny all gold and shit wow its sexy
 
I'm stepping up to 1/2. They are going to come out one way or another. What would make them so tight???
 
isnt therre a new adapter that can be used to mat a b series motor to a d tran?? or is it the other way around?/

Yes, there is. Although honestly, I don't see the point. For the price of the adaptor plate you could just buy a B-series transmission, which is a no-fabrication bolt-in upgrade for any 88-00 Civic...
 
stock intake is the little baby plastic one with the resinator box in the frot bumper.
stok exhaust is like 1.25 pipe all the way back to a oval muffler.
why do you ask?????
 
oh ok. if you tune it right and drive it like a kinda normal car you can get real good mpg. you have to do the right matainance, like i change my oil every 4k miles and i put in a can of seafoam in everytime (half gas tank half intake).
 
I ended up putting the Z6 head and i/e (I know what i/e means now, learn something new everyday-lol) on the Z1 motor. Few minor problems:
1) I had a broken wire on top plug on passenger wheel well. IDK what this wire does but I pushed the pin out soldered in a splice and it's back together.
2)Power steering bracket and support bracket for the i/m bolt to the block and the head. It seems the distance from the holes in the block to the top of the block is a little shorter. I've got to slot the holes to make them fit.
3)My inexperience-I took the hydraulic fitting off the transmission shifter, now I have to bleed it.

Motor sounds good. First time doing this and I'm like a kid at Xmas! I can't wait to get my toy out and play with it. Bolt accessories on, safety inspection, tags and I'm on the road.
 
One thing I failed to mention:
I seperated the motor from the tranny and pulled only the motor. What a B----. How do you keep the crank from spinning to remove the harmonic balancer???
 
Air impact. its a 17mm socket. it'll make it so much easier on you.
 
The only reason why a d15z1 gets great gas mpg, is because the intake ports are tiny, doesnt require so much fuel and air, as well as the pistons are low compression. other than that your stroke and deck heights are the same as every other 1.5 block. Im only using a z1 block for a build because its a good block, No signs of over heating, when i got it, green coolant, block surface looked brand new, new water pumps and oil pump. and i only paid 100. Even though i didnt realize till later. i didnt want the head. I'm switching the pistons from a d15b and the P08-1 head. I'm basically doing the same build as blanco. but not as clean as his is. Even though after seeing his now. I want to take that extra effort to make it look even better. yes.. im jealous of you blanco.

If i were you. Just pop the Z6 in. Unless you want to build the z6. then go ahead and put the z1 in. save gas and money, build a stroker from the z6. Im not sure if i got my numbers right. but you could find a d17 block and use the crank shaft (the main bearings are the same size) and then use 1.5 rods on the 1.7 crank and you have a stroker. of course I dont have my numbers right. I havent taken the time to check to see if that adds up right. but Either way. it'll be cheaper than a full stroker kit.


I put the Z1 in with Z6 head, intake and exhaust. Z1 exhaust manifold would not bolt up to the existing exhaust pipe because the bolt pattern is different. Kinda doggy. The stroker sounds interesting. Can you tell me more?
 
I put the Z1 in with Z6 head, intake and exhaust. Z1 exhaust manifold would not bolt up to the existing exhaust pipe because the bolt pattern is different. Kinda doggy. The stroker sounds interesting. Can you tell me more?

Wait, so did you have an entire Z6, or did you just use the Z6 head from your old engine?
 
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