Blox block guard

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Calesta said:
Like better tuning so that you WON'T need a block guard.
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What he said :)
riceracerex said:
I do get greedy so what will be the limit on stock sleeves? Is it hard to tell usually? None of the engines I have built ever blew up but they were all n/a. I have seen 30lbs and one of the pistons actually went bad before the sleeves did.
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The limit is going to depend on the tuner honestly. There have been stock sleeve B-Series builds well into the 4's that have lasted for quite some time. There have also been many that went well into the 4's and lasted for only seconds. The difference is in the tuning.
 
Great explanation. I am tuning myself but always take every precaution before a modification. The software I have is TurboEdit OBD0 so it has it's limits and hopefully I can upgrade to OBD1 soon.
 
im tryin to build a Ls turbo and looking to get a daily driver wit atleast 400whp so do i need to get sleeved?.....

wow! i didnt really kno blokk guard is useless according to wat u guys is saying but otheres say it's good for cooling and help wit the cylinder walk or somethin like dat
 
Been reading alot about Block Guards and Filling the blocks lately and it looks like neither of them are good options for a DD. I don't think you would need sleeves as long as it will be tuned properly. Are you going to attempt a Ls/Vtec Turbo or just the LS?
 
riceracerex said:
Been reading alot about Block Guards and Filling the blocks lately and it looks like neither of them are good options for a DD. I don't think you would need sleeves as long as it will be tuned properly. Are you going to attempt a Ls/Vtec Turbo or just the LS?
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nah no vteC, just straight Ls turbo...just want to be a lil differ den some peeps...so im getting close to pulling my motor out, wat u guys think i should let the machine shop do...for the records this is my first build......i got a Ls possibly wit blown rings, im going straight Ls turbo mildy/fully build.....let me kno where to start and wat should i get done the the motor, and please dont tell me go Ls/vtec, and vtec is better but this is wat i want...:D...


thanks!!!!
 
400 straight ls you're going to want to be sleeved and upgraded rods/pistons.

250-275 is about the safe limit for ls rods. people have gone 325+ on them, but its just a time bomb at that point.
 
Egturbohatch said:
sup im just wondering if any 1 have use the Blox block guard............is it worth buying or mind as well get the golden eagle 1s....let me kno......any advise and comments please
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I would not use a block guard. 1- its not as strong as if u were to sleeve a block(iron sleeved) yes it is more expensive. but better in the long run.2 -yes.it is a cheaper way to increase the strength of the block somewhat.
 
At the top of the block but not the center where it flexes like B said, right?
 
yes, sleeves will protect the block frm BDC to TDC. basically due to high compression(forced induction/ piston stroke) on compression stroke the cyl walls have to withstand that pressure. block guard protects the top

not trying to get in to deep into this but to give you an idea
 
Ok, I would not use a guard, if I want that much power then I will just shell out the cash to sleeve it and keep the extra reassurance.
 
so fukk da guard..lol... how much does sleeving go for???...total price for my blokk getting sleeved please???......i wanna kno wat im dealing wit
 
I love it when guys say dont use them , but offer no reason or data for saying so. They are suppose to keep the cylinders from walking. If you took a stick and grabbed both ends and bent it, where would it break, in the middle , DUH. If you kept the ends from moving, its not going to break. So all of you with the excuse of the cylinders break in the middle, thus the block guard wont work , are probably not understanding what the guard does. I see differant guards and the cheaper ones actually look like they flow more water than some of the more expensive ones. If they work at all then the $60-$100 they cost is way more cheap than sleeving. Some of them are made with clearance for the top walk alittle so it doesnt tighten the ring wear on the top of the cylinder. JMO.
 
powderman said:
I love it when guys say dont use them , but offer no reason or data for saying so. They are suppose to keep the cylinders from walking. If you took a stick and grabbed both ends and bent it, where would it break, in the middle , DUH. If you kept the ends from moving, its not going to break. So all of you with the excuse of the cylinders break in the middle, thus the block guard wont work , are probably not understanding what the guard does. I see differant guards and the cheaper ones actually look like they flow more water than some of the more expensive ones. If they work at all then the $60-$100 they cost is way more cheap than sleeving. Some of them are made with clearance for the top walk alittle so it doesnt tighten the ring wear on the top of the cylinder. JMO.
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u kno anybody wit blokk guard?...




the motor is out finally.....a week after dat i got the crank pulley bolt out ( i kno i loosen it after i took the motor out..stupid me but got it out)....i seperated the blokk and head and the cylinder walls look pretty good wit no scratches...so does dat mean my rings r not blown???....

ok guys i changed my mind, im going VTEC! after doing a few research online i found out that if i spend a thousand or two on the ls head it will perform about the same as a stokk vtec head so because im on a budget i think going ls vtec turbo would be good....dreams for my B18b1 blokk...bore,honed,decked,hot tank/cleaned low comp Wiseco pistons, eagle rod, acl race bearing and thrust washers, polish Ls crank, gsr timing belt and water pump, gsr oil pump...maybe a aftermarket crank pulley......and slap on a stock vtec head maybe wit cam gears to adjust timing for ls vtec....and for the turbo im not sure...wat u guys think i should get for turbo...wat size wit my setup or soon to be setup in a couple years...lol..so for tuning i already have Hondata s300 but its on a non vtec ecu, i heard wit Hondata u can set vtec to run wit non vtec ecu is dat correct?? but yea i got the Hondata just need the motor........help me out guys, wat ya think?
 
You can make plenty of power with either to get that hatch moving quickly. I'm at a modest 320whp right now with my setup and my car MOVES.
 
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