Bolt-ons for my B18A

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pauls81sc

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I'm swapping a B18A into by 89 CRX Si, the block, head, and crankshaft are out at the machine shop now and should be finished next week. So it's time to start buying the accessories.

I want to squeeze a few more horses out of the engine, but I'm in Southern California and have to pass smog. So I'm sticking with obd0, and will not be doing any forced induction or VTEC heads.

My (uneducated) plan is: Skunk2 Intake, ACT Streetlite flywheel, performance clutch, and DC header. I have some connections when it comes to pistons so I'll be putting in some custom forged aluminum with slightly higher compression but nothing too outrageous.

I am wondering if these mods will compliment one another or am I wasting some money on things that won't help my situation?
 
dyno time is going to be a great factor.......go high cr with b16 pistons a DC header..high flow cat ....after you pass go to the dyno and really kick it up and finish the adons.....
 
what going on at the shop? like what are they doing to the block and head? also with minor boltons and not to much higher compression i would go with some 403's
 
Originally posted by erebunicrx@Jan 27 2005, 07:09 PM
what going on at the shop? like what are they doing to the block and head? also with minor boltons and not to much higher compression i would go with some 403's
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The shop is just doing the basic rebuilding prep work: bore and hone cylinders, flatten block and head, re-grind crank and valve seals.

I'll be using the stock crank and rods.

So...the concensus seems to be: get some cams to go with this setup to optimize the results.


The big question is: WILL IT PASS SMOG?
 
Get a vtec head... the LS head is the worst head known to mankind and the cams are worthless.
 
Originally posted by beerbongskickass@Jan 28 2005, 08:13 PM
Get a vtec head... the LS head is the worst head known to mankind and the cams are worthless.
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Im pretty sure he doesnt want to spend a bajillion dollars on misc. parts for your proposed LS/VTEC plan. Albeit a very good option... And the LS ehad isnt the worst thing known to mankind... there are far more things... like you and your statements.

My friend and I are building an LS engine for his CRX. Our build consist of LS Rods, B16A (P30 [should net something like 11.xx:1 over the LS's 9.2:1]) pistons, OEM 3 Layer Headgasket, 00 LS Head (they have bigger intake ports!), Crower 403 Cams, Dual Valve Springs (these are recommended by Crower for use with the 403's, 404's and 405's.), Skunk2 Intake Manifold, JDM ITR header (4-1). This is just the tip of the iceberg, he's alos planning on an OBD0-1 conversion, Hondata S100 w/ OBD1 PR4 (92-93 LS ECU) or P75 (94-95 LS ECU)...

As far as I know you can not use OEM LS rods with any aftermarket piston... something with the Wrist Pins... I dunno research it. I really dont think we can guess what you'll run in the 1/4 nor do most if any of us care to try... but I'd say you're looking at a lot of dyno time alongside more down time to build this beast. Good Luck wiht your build.

The ACT flywheel if Im not mistaken is the 12lb flywheel correct? If so that's good for daily drivers... for the clutch, check out ACT HDPP with a StreetStrip disc. PM ef9civicgen4 about this...
 
that seems like a decent setup for the CRX :thumbsup:.

Clutch - Exedy or Valeo (I think that's the OEM clutch, I dunno I'm still drunk from yesterday). It's the only one's I would use despite everyones experiences with ACT, Centerforce whatever.

If you don't wanna spend the little extra you will on the 2000 head at least get a complete 94+ head and an obd1 conversion with the p75, that's good to get you a about 10 hp if it's a 90-91 b18a1.
 
Originally posted by brian11to1+Jan 29 2005, 08:37 AM-->
brian11to1 @ Jan 29 2005 said:
beerbongskickass
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brian11to1 @ Jan 29 2005 said:
@Jan 28 2005, 08:13 PM
Get a vtec head... the LS head is the worst head known to mankind and the cams are worthless.
[post=452877]Quoted post[/post]​
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Im pretty sure he doesnt want to spend a bajillion dollars on misc. parts for your proposed LS/VTEC plan. Albeit a very good option... And the LS ehad isnt the worst thing known to mankind... there are far more things... like you and your statements.

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BRIAN:
HA...couldnt agree more.

And thanks for the tips. I'll check into that wrist pin thing with the stock rods. The Streetlite flywheel is 12.5 lbs and I chose it because this is my daily driver.

This is my first swap and my first engine build, so I'm trying to keep it fairly simple. Why do you think dyno time is going to be so important?

BEERBONGSKICKASS:
I'm not looking to set any record times in the 1/4 mile. In fact I'd be surprised if this car ever even sees a drag strip. This car is my daily driver, I've owned CRX's since I drove my first one off the sales lot in 1990, I've driven over a quarter million miles in these little beauties, and I love it. But it's growing tired and I want to breathe some life back into it.

So before any more beerbongskickass-types chime in with their $.02, spare me the super-charged-Nitrous-burning-VTEC-turbo babble, 'cause it ain't gonna happin. (And dude, lay off the crack. That shit it'll kill ya)
 
Originally posted by pauls81sc@Jan 29 2005, 11:42 AM
This is my first swap and my first engine build, so I'm trying to keep it fairly simple. Why do you think dyno time is going to be so important?
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Once you up the compression the stock ECU wont be able to feed the engine... so you'll need some sort of AF controller like an SAFC or Hondata something to give the engine what it needs across the powerband. I mean theres a guy on here who burns chips for certain things nfn13057 I believe... if you tell him your mods nad whatnot he can burn you a chip install it in your ECU and send it back to you within I believe 24hrs. any more quesitons ask him.
 
look into uberdata if your not looking to spend yo much. the set up to burn your own chips is less then a safc and better.

EDIT: i see your staying with obd0 so idk lol.
 
your perfect build option is :

Block: stock everything but change the pistons to jdm b16a p30 pistons.
Head: Port and polish, i got mine done by dh racing in las vegas its freaking badass and dont let anyone tell you you cant get the ls head to flow cuz its bullshit.
Crower 403's are a must dual valve springs and titanium retainers must also be had. I steped up and got some ferra valves but thats just me, you can go stock.
thats just the engine stuff i have all that other bolt up crap too ie the I/ H/E
intake manifold and some serious tuning on my cam gears.

this build is basically described verbadum in the tech read articles under the monster ls build.
This setup rips hard on all the vtec guys i run into.
im also in socal in riverside, so i you should get an idea of the types of rides around.

and as fara s smog well it wont pass. So i suggest you get a buddy outside of the state, i use south dakota i register my car there and they dont do smog. so i can run whatever i want in my rex cuz i have south dakota plates :)

hope all that helps
 
Alright, you guys have been very helpful but you're really scaring me with the prospects of failing smog.

I've decided I have to tone down my build in order to be safe.

No flywheel, no camshafts, probably just intake, header, and exhaust. I do have a connection in the piston world so I will up my compression somewhat, but will probably go safe with that too.

Since this is my first buld / swap, it's probably for the better.

Later I can play with the head, try some Crower 403's, maybe get an extra head and swap it every couple years when I have to pass smog.

So, again...thanks for the help guys.
 
No problem dude. Here to help. In Missouri we dont have to deal with smog... good luck with the build and shit though.

Brian
 
How would the flywheel mess with emissions?
It would be nice if he could tune his car to pass emissions, and then tune it afterwards for power. And just have to different programs to switch back and forth from. Can this even be done?
 
The flywheel won't change emissions at all- get a lightweight one. It has no direct effect on pollution.

Yes, you can make separate programs and switch back and forth.
 
Since this car is your daily driver that's even more of a reason to get a vtec head... reving to 8500 rpms is fun. Even after after all the porting and polishing an LS head isn't going to outflow a B16/GSR head. I just don't see a point in building up the LS head when you can just use a stock vtec head. A vtec head will own... simple as that.
 
I can't believe nobody has mentioned this yet. Head swaps are illegal in Caifornia. You can't swap a VTEC head onto an LS or B20 block legally in Cali. So besides the fact that he doesn't want one anyway, there's a real reason not to do it.
 
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