boosting a b18c1.

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gsr x civic

gsr x civic

New Member
so i've been doing some research on what kind of turbos will fit my gsr. . . but i still can't come to a conclusion on anything, really. i'm not very knowledgeable in "forced induction"(or much for that matter
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), so please cut me some slack.


anyway, i have a civic with a gsr motor; intake, exhaust, vafc, p28, fuel reg, and that's pretty much it performance wise.

just lately i've been thinking about boosting, ever since i got to drive my cousin's dsm for a good half hour. i love how it felt
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anyway, i've been looking, and it seems that the small 16g or t3/t4's are the way to go. i'm unsure, please correct me if i'm wrong.

i'm not looking to get huge gains, just maybe another 50 or 100 hp, pretty much something noticeable.

anyway, my plan was getting a turbo, an fmic, and a bov. what other things do i need? turbo manifold, turbo header, pipings from the throttle body to connect to the intercooler then to the turbo, downpipe (what is that anyway), boost controller, and what else?
help would be appreciated
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16 g's are good for d series. you say you only want like 50 extra hp but that will be good for about an hr. get a 57 trim or somthing close to that. even a used holset off a dodge turbo pickup.
 
thank you for your help :)

other replies would be great :)

ere, what else would be needed? is everything else that i mentioned good? or do i need more? i know i need fuel management too, but is there anything else?
 
ok to start ur downpipe is ur exhaust... it comes off ur turbo and hooks up to ur exhaust..u need a oil feed and return for ur turbo, thats all i can see that u missed, i also and not very knowledgable about this stuff but i know a lil but someone might want to add more..
 
If you get a turbo without a internal wastegate.. You'll need a external wastegate (tial, turbosmart, turbonetics, etc.), depending on your turbo manifold!
 
maby a boost gauge and oil pres guage. a turbo timer is nice expesialy if you are only runing oil lines and no water cooling.

as far as engine managment i would do nothing but a chiped ecu on a gsr motor. the motor is a little costly not to mention it is high compression so you will want to actually have a good tune.

crome or uberdata if you have money you can use hondata but there is no reason to. do not use a hack or fmu could posibly ruin that nice motor.
 
cool :)

anyway, if i didn't mention it already, it's an 18g, which i believe HAS an internal wastegate. (i just got a kit :D )

i was planning on buying a p28 chipped ecu with hondata s200, and using the p28 i have right now as a backup just in case. why wouldn't i need to use hondata anyway?

i'll probably end up buying a boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, and a turbo timer pretty soon. this installation is going to be costly, seeing as i'm having it done by a local shop.

i'm planning on getting 550 injectors in the near future as well. is a 255 fuel pump necesary also?

and by saying don't use a hack, what does that mean?

thanks again :)
 
(s/v)afc 'hack' = this is use in conjuntion with bigger injectors to deliver more fuel, you use the afc to control how much extra fuel the injectors will deliver. pretty expensive and not all that great, it advances timing and unless you use a timing retard device (which is more money spent) you have to manually retard timing at the distributor (dizzy) which causes you to lose bottom end power. a lot better than an fmu, but for the price, there are better alternatives. price = $175-$300 for afc, $40-$75 for 450cc injectors.

this is straight from Homemadeturbo.com
if you want to go there read the faq and how to stickeys you can learn alot. you dont have to use hondata because it is expensive. you can use crome ofr a fraction of the price and it can be tuned by yourself or anyone who knows how. being that you bought a kit you probably have some money. i say try to install the kit yourself. its not that hard and youll fell beter about what you have created. depending on howmuch hp you want depends if y ou should get a bigger fuel pump.
 
ooh well the injectors i'm getting are 550cc, and are made by RC. they will cost me 300 shipped. i have the vafc as well, so that's not really a problem. but the thing i'm concerned about is the 255 fuel pump, and if i will be needing it. what do you guys think?

i don't want to install anything myself, because i just learned how to do brake pads, intake manifold, and a header. i don't think i'm quite ready for a turbo. maybe as i go along, i'll learn how to swap out BOVs, and do basic maintenance etc, but other than that, i'll stick with basic :)

anyway, the ecu + hondata s200 isn't that expensive (260 to my door), so i'm going to go ahead and buy it.

i have all the lines (oil and vacuum) and the pipings for the intercooler, except that one of the pipings for the intercooler is abs plastic or pvc piping. can't remember. either way, would that be safe also?
 
yes abs or pvc is safe aslong as it is after the intercoller. anything before is to hot might melt. for the price i would get the fuel pump so that you dont end up neading it. its noo that expensive.

im not a genius or anything but if you are going with hondata why do you have a vafc??
 
i didn't have a hondata then. i got that just so i can set the crossover point, and pretty much just for use as a standard engine readout (throttle, RPM more importantly [my tach doesn't work properly]) .

but i guess i'll just keep it just to have it, or whatever.
 
also i would recommend getting a afftermarket fuel pressure regulator, on that can handle more pressure than stock... aeromotive is the way to go... fuel pressure will rise 1:1 with boost... not thats exactly wat u need..
 
is it on whereu just hack ur stock one in half and put the new piece on top..there pretty much useless i say... the aeromotive ones replaces ur stock one.. unless thats wat the aem one does..
 
I didn't read the whole thing.

I would have suggested a t3 60/63. Uberdata or Crome work as well any.

Use metal for the IC piping, External Tial WG 38mm would be fine. DSM 450's, Walbro 255 FP, most sandwich adapters are satisfactory (I used a cheapo model and didn't have problems), I made my oil lines with stuff from home depot, but I would suggest a kit. I used a JRC IC, and for the minimal extra power that you're asking for, is also plent satisfactory.

I made a custom DP, but you could buy one. You need to tap the oil pan for the return line also.
 
civic, whhy would i need an external wg when i have an internal? just curious.
and also for the dsm 450's, wouldn't i need a resistor box so that i can use them? oil line, i have. i also have the return line to the motor as well.

for the ic, i was thinking a precision, because they're cheap and they're pretty durable, at least which is what i was told at my local shop.

in the long run, do you think lower comp pistons (9:1) will be worth it? or would that just be a waste of money?

i pretty much have the whole kit (for the turbo). i just think i might need new piping.

and as for the fpr, i don't know if it's the "hack" where you take the top off and replace it. maybe it is, maybe it isn't. ? =\
 
You don't NEED an external wastegate, but's its a whole lot more effecient when you start boosting more. You're going to want more power, whether you say it now or not.

As for the DSM 450s, radio shack sells the resitors you need, they're pretty simple to splice in and I think they were only like $1.50 if that. I got my DSMs for $20 bucks.

In the long run the pistons would be worth it, but I would go with a 10:1, it would make it a little easier to tune. But honestly, the stock slugs are fine for what your asking for now.

I'd probably still have my LS-t, if it wasn't for my sister stealing my built motor. I miss that car.
 
aww. ls-t :( nooo come back. lol.

10:1 is still pretty high though. why would i want to go that high if i wanted to boost more? i thought lower comp = better for higher psi?

so by saying i dont need an external wg, are you saying i could run both the turbo's internal wg and then another external wg for more efficiency?
 
i had to read waht he said to. he si saying that hte 9,1 would be worth it and they would make it easier to tune, but fo rwhat you saying you want the stock ones would be fine.

if and when you want more power the internal wastegate will not be eficient. theyk are prone to boost kreep and what not.

you wouldnt use both or atleast i wouldnt. you can either remove the internal or have it welded shut. read up on it iv never had an internaly gated turbo.

after your turbo start saveing for sme 9.5:1 or 9:1 forged adn some forged rods. and put them in down the road. hell then you could even up the boost till you blow a ring land. just dont send anything thru the block. :(
 
I'm talking when/if you upgrade, I would go with 10:1 pistons. If you have a lot of confidence in your tuner and want something that has the potential to be really fast, I'd say sleeve it and go with 11:1.

Tuning a 9:1 compression motor over the 10:1 will be a little easier, but you're not going to make as much power at the same boost levels,. So if you're willing to replace them, go with upgraded 10:1's.

You set your goal at 50-100 extra HP, it really isn't necassary to touch the internals on this one (given your motor is in good condition). When you start asking for ~325HP or more, that's when you should be looking at upgrading the internals.


The good ole shitvic....Looks like this is one of the only memories I have left that one, I dunno what happened to all my pictures and shit.

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I think that was the first start up, open DP.
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