boosting on a 95 crank

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reynosop

Junior Member
hey fellas , i need some advice ASAP!!!

I have a b18 block that being sleeved by R&S (open deck)

I'm having them install my stroker kit from Eagle which is a 95mm Crank , JE pistons 10.1 comp (84mm more) and H beam rods.

I'm also going to be boosting with this set-up with a Vortech Supercharge/cooler, my plans are not to go beyond 15psi.(and maybe , mabe a little NOS 25 - 50 shot)

My Head is a GSR , fully P&P with skunk2 springs/retainers, bigger valves, sprokerts, civic type R camshafts.

please HELP Me
 
my question here? Is this a good set up for me to run (?)
and is this good from the pump of the gas 91 octane.
also consider that its also going to be tuned by AEM
 
10:1 + 91 = ok
10:1 + boost + 91 = :eek:

cali fucking sucks.

you're going to need one of the best tuners in your area to pull it off
 
well mostly my concern here , is the size of my crank since its a 95mm crank (long stroke) with 84mm bore pistons from JE 10.1 .........this is going on my b18b.which is going to make it into a 2.1 liter.


I'm hoping that wouldn't BLOW MY EGINE UP TO PIECES here!
I am getting my b18b resleeved and hot tanked.......
I just need some expect advise B-4 I do finish this set up.
 
stroke deals with revs. keep it under 8k, and you'll be fine.

its the gas/tune i'd be worried about
 
Originally posted by reynosop@Apr 6 2004, 12:55 AM
well mostly my concern here , is the size of my crank since its a 95mm crank (long stroke) with 84mm bore pistons from JE 10.1 .........this is going on my b18b.which is going to make it into a 2.1 liter.


I'm hoping that wouldn't BLOW MY EGINE UP TO PIECES here!
I am getting my b18b resleeved and hot tanked.......
I just need some expect advise B-4 I do finish this set up.
Click to expand...

I think this guy is making stuff up. Typically a block is "hot tanked" before the work is done on it. That is just fancy pants machinng term for cleaning the block, parts, whatever, using a chemical solvent solution. And if I were going to fork out the cash to get a block sleeved (which I AM btw) I would go with a closed deck sleeve set. Asfar as the CR is concerned, 10:1 is nothing 91 octane can't handle, if it were too high, nobody would be driving around type R integs in cali, but they are. If you are gonna boost, I'd get some big ass injectors and run the motor richer to prevent detonation. That will do wonders at the smog station however so be careful. Good luck with your build. Ditch the thought of AEM, jst get Hondata, it's less expensive, and it's designed specifically for hondas.
 
well if that the case ill keep the set up!
This set up will give me some much TQ
...
the only thing is that the Vortech supercharger goes off of from how much your ur engine will rev!!! and that will vary on how much boost your engine will recieve.


what will you recomend?
 
I think this guy is making stuff up. Typically a block is "hot tanked" before the work is done on it. That is just fancy pants machinng term for cleaning the block, parts, whatever, using a chemical solvent solution. And if I were going to fork out the cash to get a block sleeved (which I AM btw) I would go with a closed deck sleeve set


Well I know how shit gets done, when it comes to getting a block sleeved, I really don't need to get into step by step process on how it gets done. But i apreciarte you correcting me, I'm not short on cash nor am i talking out of my ass.


http://www.pyrracing.com/dynamic.html?position=49 check this link out! this link has an open deck capable of handling 1200 hp.......

I'm having R&S working on my block as we speak
 
well, a supercharger does use engine revs to build boost but that doesnt mean higher revs=bigger hp numbers...motors will only make power to a certain rpm, things like the cam grinds will only produce power til a certain rpm....if your wanting big power, go with the turbo. you may think thats stupid but most the guys here will say the same thing....superchargers arent were its at....turbos are....
"blowers blow and turbos rule"
 
i recomend you put a supercharger where it belongs.









in the trash can out back, or on ebay.

read: https://hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29398

if you haven't had the work done yet, Screw the stroker kit. its a waste of money. theres stock bore, stock stroke GSR motors making well over 630 HP on race gas.

RSMachines does good work.
this is a shitty pic, but this is what GEM does:

Ford-Duratec.jpg


its sleeved, and open deck for the most part, but it's posted for support. That's the style I have, and one design that i think works very well.

if you're doing something similar to that, you will be fine.
 
i know TURBO is always the way to go here.....I already have a turbo T3-T4 on my GSR and I love IT...19psi

but I also have another car that I'm working at! and this was the setup that I already purchased and have with me.....I just want to try something different (?) that why im going with a stroker kit and a vortech supercharge....

I know the power is going to be there and my TQ is going to be high.

I just hope i dont blow my shit away :spin:
 
Just make sure your crank is stable and you'll be ok. What are you doing to compensate for the longer stroke? Are you using a deck plate and longer rods?
 
actually, i am not using neithere, i am not using a deck plate, nor am i using longer rods....
thats why i am here asking a good general question....?
 
Oh, my mistake- it's a full Crower stroker kit. I thought you were just using a B20A crank and piecing the engine together yourself. Never mind.
 
OK check it out pal. I am going to give you sound, logical and good advice with exact reasons why.

here is the goal of a STREET boosted car, and I don't care who you are.

1) Most amount of usable horsepower
2) lowest amount of torque in the area of usable horsepower (powerband)

So being the 2 most undisputed factors in FWD Honda Street boosted cars, lets see how your idea of a stroker kit would rank.

1) out of 10, a 2, only because you could have gone more stroke than 95.. 2/10
2) out of 10, a 2, only because you could have gone more stroke than 95.. 2/10

I don;t know about you, but in a Honda, I have problems hooking up, all of first gear, and all of 2nd gear when too much torque hits the wheels.

So whats the ideal 10/10 in both categories.

1) B16A motor, with very high powerband 7-9200 RPM
2) Torque will be at its lowest point from 7-9200 RPM, thus this is a 10/10.

The B16A motor, will have HIGH peak HP, and HIGH HP in the powerband, and the LOWEST Torque in the powerband of any VTEC honda motor. A perfect combination for the street. YOu can hook up, and pull SUPER hard, without spinning tires that much.

Your motor, you can't launch it, you can't floor it in 2nd, you can't do anything under 40 MPH. Horrrible street motor.

Not only that, all the stroker is going to do is MAKE YOUR POWERBAND shorter, and make the torque come in SOONER. You want the opposite.

I mean I drive alot of High HP Honda's. That weigh between 2000 and 2800 lbs. The ones that weigh 22000-2500, if they have more than like 160 lbs of torque in the powerband, no matter what tires you have, your going to have to use WAY more skill to drive and its pretty difficult. And first gear, forget it.

Your easily on your way to a good motor on paper, but on the street, you can't even beat stock S2000 0-60.

Use a GSR crank if you can get it, GSR rods, 9.8-10:1 compression and you can boost.


If you want to boost 10 PSi, go 9:1

Jeff
 
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