Brad's DC2 GSR Tragedy

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A fuckin' sheet metal muffler with rolled seams ROFL :D

Sorry Brad.....

Wait a minute! WTF is hanging that thing at 1:07? I joked about using Plumbers Tape - it looks like a gawd dang piece of an old webbed nylon tie down strap????

Plumbing strapping snapped then yes I used a tie down strap. The shit I did...

Undergoing the axle job today. I also need to fix the exhaust, it's leaking badly from the head - manifold gasket. <_<

Already having issues. :mad:
 
15-20 year old cars seem to typically have issues. Just gotta systematically work through them all. It just sux sometimes when faced with unscheduled maintenance needs.

I got discouraged a couple of times with my hatch - then, I just had to rely on patience - which isn't easy.

Belts, hoses, lines, full brake job, wheel bearings, seals, alternator x 4, battery, complete exhaust system, radiator x 2, ignition switch, heater core, burp tank, headlamps, tail lamps, side lamps, struts, tires, wheels, bushings, tranny rebuild, clutch, before it was over. Then, the engine swap - another $4k.

Jump on it hard - belts, hoses, brake system service, cooling system flush, tranny service, tuneup and keep going till ya get there.
 
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Tell ya what hoss, my ride runs now and it's just too friggin hot down here to do anything to it for a few more weeks. So, I took on an indoor project to do in the air conditioned shop. Doing an upgrade to the Home Theatre / Entertainment system.

Part of the upgrade is adding a 15" home built subwoofer from a kit. From the ZC swap, my main workbench is still a disaster area. So, very soon it's going to get decluttered and some of the good spare/leftover parts are headed north.

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The new 68mm TB & the D16 TB and a couple of other strays like an adjustable cam pulley that works on a D16A6 and others will be heading your way in trade for the connectors. ;)
 
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:confused: That's almost related to Brad's Integration... :p
Dangerously close isn't it! :D

Truth be known, I probably have some Plumbers Tape (may have been bailing wire) on the exhaust system in my past too.....had a split sheet metal muffler once.....sounded like a tractor....

Pics are cuz I'm gonna send him some leftovers in trade for some wiring connectors. Just a preview ya know - of the cleanup project and some of the leftovers.
 
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i've used a coat hanger to rig up the exhaust on my old CRX when the hangers rusted out and busted.. just twist the coat hanger till the exhaust sits where you want it to.. lol
 
When I graduated HS I got a family hand me down for a first car:

1965 Rambler Classic 770 6 cyl, 3spd column shift, manual overdrive handle under dash.
Rambler%20Classic%20770.JPG


Talk about a NerdWagon - and no, before you even ask, I never got laid in the Rambler.
 
i've used a coat hanger to rig up the exhaust on my old CRX when the hangers rusted out and busted.. just twist the coat hanger till the exhaust sits where you want it to.. lol

Yup. Had to do the same on my Camaro temporarily once.

When I graduated HS I got a family hand me down for a first car:

1965 Rambler Classic 770 6 cyl, 3spd column shift, manual overdrive handle under dash.
Rambler%20Classic%20770.JPG


Talk about a NerdWagon - and no, before you even ask, I never got laid in the Rambler.

The Sunday Confessional - bet Brad will get all choked up when he reads it. :huh:
 
Hahaha at least you try to teach me the right way of doing things!

So the leaking manifold turned out to be 2 broken studs and a loose bolt on the #4 cyl. I got one stud replaced and the bolt tight but the last one will have to be drilled later.

The axles are too far gone, I'm going to pick up a used pair tomorrow.

The brake became very seized so I'm temporary using a DA Integra brake on the drivers side. Works fine for now.

The clutch has been fucking around hard lately. I will bleed it then the friction point is right at the floor (feels nice) then after a couple days of driving the friction point is right at the top of the pedal and the clutch starts slipping cause the pedal hits the stopper.

I'm flushing the system and adjusting the stopper now. I don't loose any fluid. Whats most likely to break? Master cylinder or the slave cylinder?
 
Looking like you're going to have to do an "End to End" on this phuker sooner than anticipated. When done, you'll have a nice ride.

Now you have to manage the 3 and maintain a DD in the process. :)
 
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That rambler would have been bad ass if it was a 2 door! Looks wise at least until you 390 or 401 swapped it.
 
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I need a hand here!!

My clutch has been NOT fully engaging the last few days. I bought a new slave cylinder (the old one was definitely bypassing/leaking) but its still not right.

The friction point started out at the floor then creeped right up to the top after a 30 min drive and I'm getting locked out of gears again.

Should I be unbolting the slave cylinder then tipping it up to bleed the air or something?

I might have to go ahead and replace the master too. Then if all else fails I'm pulling the motor to inspect the throw out bearing/clutch assy.


Good news is I picked up 2 used axles + an intermediate shaft for $100.

I also picked up some Royal Purple 10w40 synthetic for the tranny when I do the axles. This is what the auto parts guy recommended. I was looking at Redline 75w90 (I think) MTF oil but he said it may hurt it. :(
 
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You should bleed the slave while it is mounted to the trans. Sounds like your master is bad...
 
This is a good general solution to most of life's problems actually...
^_^
You should bleed the slave while it is mounted to the trans. Sounds like your master is bad...

I replaced the master today. I get better pressure feedback and feel but there is still a problem. I can cruise along and shift through gears ok but if there is any load I get completely blocked out and have to match the engine-to-trans speed. I can drop down to any gear as long as I double clutch, but otherwise no way.

I get no odd noises and the clutch always grabs fine. All I know for sure is the clutch does not fully engage when I push the pedal to the floor which obv is causing the problems.
 
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I know on my car.....there is an adjustment where the clutch pedal attaches to the master cylinder rod. See if your's is adjustable too. After I swapped out a B18B1 and put in a B16A.....I needed to adjust and it made the clutch engage earlier. It might be your problem.

Edit: I remember now.....it was when I had a leaking master cylinder and I changed it out.....thats when I needed to adjust it.
 
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it has it.. i had to adjust the clutch on the teg a couple times after replacing the master cylinder
 
Yep, I saw that when changing out the master. I've been playing with it and the stopper adjustment. Still doesn't feel nice.

If I'm using the clutch a lot in traffic something will pop out of place, the engagement point changes and the whole car will shake and shudder when disengaging the clutch (feels really bad). The pedal catches vibrations from the clutch and it feels chunky lol. Then after a while it goes back to normal, well almost. I can't explain.

The clutch still never slips or makes noise, just feels really bad. I think some teeth from the pressure plate are gone, or the throwout bearing is broken...or the clutch is shreaded. :ph34r:
 
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Pull it out and take a look. You have a couple of other cars you can drive in the meantime, and you dont want to take a chance and mess anything else up by driving the car. Once you get it out you will know for sure what the problem is rather then playing the guessing game.
 
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