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brainstorm, built b18a turbo

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by sleepercrx90, Sep 4, 2008.

  1. sleepercrx90

    sleepercrx90 New Member

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    hello fellow honda owners.
    my crx as a b18a in it but it knocks, so ive decided to pull it out and built the motor completly. this is my ideas so far, if you have any advice or tips, please inform my of them. thanks

    -stock b18a crank turned at the machine shop
    -oversized rod and main bearings(ACL race bearings)
    -Eagle H-beam rods
    -Arias turbo/nitrous pistons

    i plan on running a stock b18a head, but im not sure what kind of hp that could make and hold safely??
    i have a holset hx35 turbo that i plan on using, but im not sure that would work right on my motor.
    would i need to get my block sleeved or bored over?

    i know its alot of questions but i would really appreciate some good responses to help me out. thanks
     
  2. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    For starters, do alot of research on engine builds. The simple things such as using plastigauge to check the bearing clearances, replacing every seal, gasket, bearing, etc. can be a real lifesaver when building an engine. Torque specs must be precise, and you really need to research the parts you're putting in before you just slap them in there. Certain parts and pieces work better with some than others.

    That said, the head isn't really what you should be worried about. You should be worried about the head staying on the block, get some ARP head studs. That is one of the most overlooked aftermarket upgrades in builds that I see.

    That hx35 will work on any engine. The difference is where it spools, and what kind of power it will produce. What are you looking for? A broad powerband, or a short pull in the top end?
     
  3. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    DO NOT have the crank turned and/or use ACL race bearings. If the crank is tore up, buy a new one and use OEM Honda bearings. Honda uses a nitrate coating on their cranks and when you have it turned it grinds the coating off, and race bearings should only be used in race motors that get rebuilt once a month.
     
  4. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    Blockgaurds create hot spots, and for <10psi stock internals will be fine with the proper tune.
     
  5. lsteggy

    lsteggy New Member

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    nahhh

    if you get the right block guard it dont , it has to have the coolant passages.
    and i said 8;bs cuz thats what most kits come with
    after i fixed my ls i plan on puttin a turbo onl
     
  6. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    They all come with coolant holes in them, but they still create hot spots. They arent needed, if your under 10psi you will be fine with a good tune 11-12 on you might as well have it sleeved.
     
  7. lsteggy

    lsteggy New Member

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    alright

    you have a turbo? and why wuld they make it if it dont work. i know nothing about sleeving
     
  8. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    You know what, your right, Im just blowing steam up your ass.:disgust1:
     
  9. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    Don't mess with a honda crank unless you have money to waste.

    Look into posting the block. Posting and sleeving are quite a bit better than getting a block-guard.

    The hx35 takes a while to spool, but if you build the valvetrain, you will continue to make lots of power. Lemme rephrase:

    You need to build the valvetrain too, if you'd like to get more usable power out of the turbo.
     
  10. sleepercrx90

    sleepercrx90 New Member

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    so oem honda bearings are tougher and more realiable then ACL race bearings?
    also, what consist of posting the block? ive never heard of that. Are there any good manuals or books out there that do a good job about teaching you to assemble honda motors? i know how everything goes together, i just know how precise you have to be when assembling a motor and i just dont wanna f*** anything up since these internals are so expensive...
     
  11. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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  12. Justin66

    Justin66 The Hondaswap Canadian

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    Haynes manuals are pretty good and you can get them anywhere. He isnt saying that honda bearings are more "reliable" than ACL. ACL race bearings are for RACE engines, meaning they get ripped apart and rebuilt practically weekly. Race bearings are for huge HP and wear much quicker. Honda bearings will be fine and are probably just as "reliable". Honda are great engineers, if they make 9000RPM engines reliable, powerful and fuel efficient at the same time, their bearings are no different. Replace your seals and bearings with OEM Honda, dont over boost and tune well and you will be fine.
     
  13. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Wow seriously? I wish Blanco wasnt banned so he could holler at you.

    You best do some Googling on sleeves. Darton fool.

    "you have a turbo? and why wuld they make it if it dont work. i know nothing about sleeving"

    You have no idea what your talking about and your disrespecting what efhondakid has to say completely. How about engaging in INFORMATIVE arguments. Post data that supports your claim.

    They make lots of things that don't work. You know why? Because morons buy them. Plain and simple. A block guard will allow the stock sleeves to hold a little more boost but at the cost of coolant flow. REGARDLESS of if it has holes or not, it is a restriction above what it had stock. There is no point in increasing thermal load on the motor with turbo and then reducing it's ability to cool. Never will those go hand in hand. Sleeving is your best bet with turbo every time. Way more strengthened walls as well as full coolant flow.

    SleeperCRX90: Take your time, of course. OEM bearings are better, make sure you measure your tolerances and buy the ones that will give you the right amount of clearance. There are many sizes of OEM bearings made for the varying amount of wear the crankshaft will encounter. You want all to have approx the same clearances. Posting the block means replace the head bolts with head studs. ARP studs are the most widely used and would be recommended.
     
  14. lsteggy

    lsteggy New Member

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    .........

    relax there buddy..
     
  15. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    :yes:

    HMT FTW! :thumbsup:

    GTFO.
     
  16. Justin66

    Justin66 The Hondaswap Canadian

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    Now efhonda why ya gotta be like that lol.
     
  17. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    God damn.. epic pwnage


    Anyway, lsteggy if you know nothing about sleeving, how would you know the purpose of a block guard well enough to advise people on using one?

    Exactly. Don't give advice if you aren't qualified to do so. :thumbsup:
     
  18. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    I dont like people talking shit/disrespecting me when Im trying to help thats all, it really gets on my nerves.
     
  19. sleepercrx90

    sleepercrx90 New Member

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    so i shouldnt get my stock b18a crank turned. isnt a new oem crank like 500 bucks. What are my other options as far as the crank goes.
    i understand that oem bearings are the way to go, that makes since because hondas oem parts are very good and are garunteed to work.
    so i could use the stock crank and oem bearings with the eagle rods and arias pistons? does that sound like a strong bottom end if i post the block as well? i dont think i will get serious enough with the boost to get the block sleeved.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2008
  20. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    Yeah, your on the right track, that sounds like a good setup. :thumbsup:
     
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