brake.. pads...

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jamesA

jamesA

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I stopped by autozone and got some cheapy valucraft pads... i'm poor, my brakes are grinding, what can i say?

Anyway, I'm going to attempt self installation tomorrow, I figure B can do it, so can I.

These are for my fronts though, I don't need any tools besides like a certain mm wrench do I?

All I should have to do is take the caliper off and replace the pads and then replace the caliper, correct?

Anything I should keep in mind before attempting this?
 
you also need a c-clamp so you can compress the pad. To do this, put the old pad back in the caliper, then compress it down. This keeps it compressing straight down.

I would defently change the rotors too. Since your car is realitively new your still going to have your rotor screws. To do this, either attempt to take the screws out (but they are just going to come out) or with a drill and a medium sized drill bit, drill it out. Takes a few minutes. Don't bother replacing them.

You need the basic honda sizes. This includes 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19 (19 to take the wheel off) Its a very easy job.
 
Use an impact screwdriver with a hammer, it will take the rotor screws out without damaging them. Reinstall them with anti seize. Why would you leave them out? I don't like my rotor being able to flop around with my wheel off.
 
Originally posted by nfn15037@Oct 10 2004, 11:36 AM
Use an impact screwdriver with a hammer, it will take the rotor screws out without damaging them. Reinstall them with anti seize. Why would you leave them out? I don't like my rotor being able to flop around with my wheel off.
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They are put on there because during manufactoring, the rotors go on realitivly early in the assembly line, and the wheels are put on last. Instead of having the rotors constanly falling during the assembly process, they put screws on them. Barely any other manufators have them. I have been without the screws for over 2 years now. They serve zero purpose once on the road. If you wheel comes off when your driving, you have bigger problems then the rotor floping around.
 
True- I still prefer to use the retainer screws though. My brakes don't have them installed- the holes don't line up with the bigger 11 inch rotors. It's no big deal.

If you're using the stock calipers, you should be able to just swing part of the caliper away to change the pads- you only need to remove the entire caliper to change the rotor.
 
Originally posted by asmallsol+Oct 10 2004, 11:10 AM-->
asmallsol @ Oct 10 2004 said:
nfn15037
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asmallsol @ Oct 10 2004 said:
@Oct 10 2004, 11:36 AM
Use an impact screwdriver with a hammer, it will take the rotor screws out without damaging them. Reinstall them with anti seize. Why would you leave them out? I don't like my rotor being able to flop around with my wheel off.
[post=400768]Quoted post[/post]​
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They are put on there because during manufactoring, the rotors go on realitivly early in the assembly line, and the wheels are put on last. Instead of having the rotors constanly falling during the assembly process, they put screws on them. Barely any other manufators have them. I have been without the screws for over 2 years now. They serve zero purpose once on the road. If you wheel comes off when your driving, you have bigger problems then the rotor floping around.
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I was referring to when I swap wheels, not so much as when my wheels fall off lol. Anyways, they make life easier, so if you can use them, I see no good reason not to.
 
Originally posted by asmallsol@Oct 10 2004, 09:48 AM
you also need a c-clamp so you can compress the pad. To do this, put the old pad back in the caliper, then compress it down. This keeps it compressing straight down.

I would defently change the rotors too. Since your car is realitively new your still going to have your rotor screws. To do this, either attempt to take the screws out (but they are just going to come out) or with a drill and a medium sized drill bit, drill it out. Takes a few minutes. Don't bother replacing them.

You need the basic honda sizes. This includes 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19 (19 to take the wheel off) Its a very easy job.
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alright... i have to go to my parents to do this anyway I'll make sure to find a C clamp first. I'd change my rotors but I really don't want to buy new ones (and the fact that I really don't have a dime to my name to purchase new ones right now) when I'm planning on that 11.75" front/ 11" rear fastbrakes setup like Cal showed me a few months ago.
 
Originally posted by revolution8k@Oct 10 2004, 03:48 PM

alright... i have to go to my parents to do this anyway I'll make sure to find a C clamp first. I'd change my rotors but I really don't want to buy new ones (and the fact that I really don't have a dime to my name to purchase new ones right now) when I'm planning on that 11.75" front/ 11" rear fastbrakes setup like Cal showed me a few months ago.
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I would at least get them turned. Any autopart store or shop can do this for you for pretty cheap.
 
when i did my rears, i broke a brake caliper tool i bought at Auto Zone. my friend called it a "Pandora's Box". anyways, i ended up having to rent the brake caliper tool kit from Auto Zone for $40 and use that to release the caliper so i could put the new pads in. was a pain in the ass. i suggest renting the tool from Auto Zone..you get your $40 back when you return it.
 
Originally posted by TrailorParkPimp@Oct 10 2004, 03:59 PM
when i did my rears, i broke a brake caliper tool i bought at Auto Zone. my friend called it a "Pandora's Box". anyways, i ended up having to rent the brake caliper tool kit from Auto Zone for $40 and use that to release the caliper so i could put the new pads in. was a pain in the ass. i suggest renting the tool from Auto Zone..you get your $40 back when you return it.
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For the fronts they are not needed. The rears are "kinda" a bitch because the ebrake is controled by a screw. You must spin the piston to screw it back down. With the fronts, it will just go straight down.
 
I got my wheel off (pass side first) and I'm attempting to try to take out the bolt holding the calipers to the rotor piece... those are 17 mm right? I can't seem to put enough torque behnid it and where i can is a really awkward position. any advice?
 
I was going at the wrong damn bolts. :ph34r:

Thre's four bolts, two 17s holding the whole caliper setup to the control arms adn two 12 mm bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket which is held on to the cntrol arms.

I got thecaliper themselves off, (with pics) and proceeded to pull my old pads out, which iswhen I realized that I'm doing the wrong pads.. I looked at my rears and teh driver rear is grinding the rotor off in rows (pics also).

There is oen casualty though...

I broke/cracked my dads 12 mm socket pulling off the first caliper. :p


I got my new pads on adn I'm going to go put my wheel back on and pump up the brakes a bit before I go test them out. Shouldn't feel much of a differnce though as the front pads had TONS of padding still left on there.


I'd do my rears but the rotor is seriously fucked up so I probably leave those to a shop and i'll need new rotors or at least get these ground down (dunno if that'd be worth ti though)

A special thanks to Ji (with a Long I sound) :) for some 1 to 1 phone tech help. I now have a better understanding of brakes, btu I do have a couple of questions which I'll bring up when I get home with pics.
 
Aight here's my pics...

They're rather large so i'm just going to link them.

Before I started...
Found all the C Clamps I could ever want...
How do you love my bald as all hell Yoko yk420s? lol winter is sooo going to suck.
A general shot of the suspension setup. another general shot

My old pads. Shortly after pulling them off I realized that they're in great shape. After I compared my new pads vs the old pads I realized that the new pads had just a bit more surface area on the pad... so i went ahead and did it anyway.

Now... I realized what was grinding...
Driver side rear rotor. :blink:

Driver side new pads on.


Now for my few questions...
what is this piece? and the round cylinder I'm clamping here, that is the piston right?

My dads 12 mm socket... Yeah, it's fairly useless now.
 
Originally posted by revolution8k@Oct 10 2004, 06:10 PM
Aight here's my pics...

They're rather large so i'm just going to link them.

Before I started...
Found all the C Clamps I could ever want...
How do you love my bald as all hell Yoko yk420s? lol winter is sooo going to suck.
A general shot of the suspension setup. another general shot

My old pads. Shortly after pulling them off I realized that they're in great shape. After I compared my new pads vs the old pads I realized that the new pads had just a bit more surface area on the pad... so i went ahead and did it anyway.

Now... I realized what was grinding...
Driver side rear rotor. :blink:

Driver side new pads on.


Now for my few questions...
what is this piece? and the round cylinder I'm clamping here, that is the piston right?

My dads 12 mm socket... Yeah, it's fairly useless now.
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That piece is the outer tie rod. <_<
And yes, that's the piston :blink:
 
Duuude. You always wanna compress the pistonf for the caliper with a brake pad loaded in the piston to make sure it goes in straight. It can get cocked, stuck, and you end up having to buy a whole new caliper. The first time that happens to you, you never forget it! :shocked:

Anyway, glad it all went ok, I suppose. Get some Craftsman tools. They hold up better than parts store generic junk like "Great Neck".
 
Originally posted by SiR Kid@Oct 10 2004, 07:51 PM
Duuude. You always wanna compress the pistonf for the caliper with a brake pad loaded in the piston to make sure it goes in straight. It can get cocked, stuck, and you end up having to buy a whole new caliper.  The first time that happens to you, you never forget it! :shocked:

Anyway, glad it all went ok, I suppose. Get some Craftsman tools. They hold up better than parts store generic junk like "Great Neck".
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woops. :huh: Thanks for the warning. They work good though so i dunno. I guess I got lucky. Edit: actually i thought about it on the way home. there's no way I would have gotten the caliper back on with the inside pad compressed onto it... the pad needed to be slid under the caliper bracket and pushed in before the caliper would even slide over it... a feat an amateur would not be able to accomplish.

and yeah those are my dads tools, probably older than I am. I have craftsmans somewhere in my apartment.
 
no, how you do it is you take the caliper off how you have it there, then instead of applying pressure to the edge of the piston, you put a old pad on it, then compress. its very simple to do.
 
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