Brake set up.any input?

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4drsleeper8

New Member
Hey guys, so I'll be gettin a turbo for the car after summer, but i want to upgrade my brakes before hand, so I wont have to deal with it afterwards. Ill be hoping for 300hp. ive got a 91 integra rs.

So what kind of brake set up?
i want something big. i was looking at the big brake kit for brembo. (wow expensive) so im thinking wilwood? but not sure if they will fit.

anyone with any suggestions would be awesome. hoping to get them soon.
 
get a set of front and rear calibers from a gsr, I don't know to much about the older integras but are your rear brakes drum or rotor?
 
nah bro all teggys besides the integra type-r are 4x100 the same setup as your car. As for your brakes get yourself wilwood calipers, and ceramic bads new rotors from auto zone or one of those places. The pads and calipers will increase stopping power and the rotors are cheap so if/when they wear out they aren't $100 to replace. Also I would do stainless steal brake lines.
 
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naw just get some blanks. i'd got with autozone duralast with the warrenties, brembo's cool too.
 
yep. You will save yourself a ton of money in brakes going with blank discs. From what I have been told drilled and slotted rotors are kind of a gimmick, they are designed to stop heat from building up so the brakes still perform as they are supposed to but with ceramic pads heat isn't as much of a problem anymore. wait for Blanco to comment on this thread he will explain in better detail than I can. But either way the wilwood calipers, 4 wheel disc brakes, new pads, and lines will make your car stop on a dime.
 
i've been hunting google for a definitive link i came across, but basicly, here's a short deally from wikipedia that says the same things i remember reading about in the article i'm looking for.

The design of the disc varies somewhat. Some are simply solid cast iron, but others are hollowed out with fins joining together the disc's two contact surfaces (usually included as part of a casting process). This "ventilated" disc design helps to dissipate the generated heat. Many motorcycle and sports car brakes instead have many small holes drilled or cast through them. This "cross drilling" was originally done in the 1960's on racing cars. Brake pads of that era would outgas at the elevated temperatures found in racing. This boundary layer of gas between the pad and the rotor hurt braking performance, and so, cross drilling was created to provide the gas someplace to escape. Today's more advanced brake pads (both racing and street) do not suffer from outgassing problems, and so, the holes' purpose is largely cosmetic today. Poorly-made cross drilled rotors (such as those made by simply drilling through a plain faced rotor) may crack at the holes under severe use, such as on the track. Other designs include "slots" - shallow channels machined into the disc to aid in removing used brake material from the brake pads. Slotted discs are generally not used on road cars because they quickly wear down brake pads. However, this removal of material is beneficial to race cars since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces. Some discs are both drilled and slotted.
Click to expand...

make sure you read the begining carefully. the ventillation of heat they first talk about has to do with a 2 layer design, like honda's front rotors. then they start talking about cross-drilled.

and it's not just ceramic pads, it's all types of modern pads. basicly any that dont use asbestos..
 
Blanco said:
Brembo blank discs, Hawk HPS pads, stainless steel lines, and ATE Super Blue brake fluid. Done.

Your brakes will never get hot enough on the street to warrant slotted discs. In turn, your brake pads will be eaten up incredibly quickly. This is what slotted rotors are designed to do. Not only do the slots allow a small amount of built up gas to escape, they constantly shave the brake pads to keep a fresh and unglazed surface. Drilled rotor are just structurally unsound and tend to crack.

So, save your money by passing on the bling-spec rotors.
Click to expand...

x2 on ATE Super Blue! for like 40 bucks i got 2 full brake system flush's worth (like 6 cans if i remember right) and off ebay tooo (not sold in stores around me).

you can buy it in blue OR amber, to better help you bleed the dirty junk out of your lines. good stuff.
 
x3 on the blue ate fuild..just incase theres any leaks u can find them eaily set aside from tranny fuild and others.i got brembos slotted/drilled and they seem to stopp on a dime very good performance
 
slotted/drilled are pointless
this has been gone over many many times
with newer pad materials slots are not needed... get good pads and they wont glaze
cross drilling does virtually nothing for heat, all it is for is weight savings... not needed or worth it for hondas... the brakes are not big enough to need or benefit from it... and you are actually losing braking performance due to less friction surface


save your money... get blanks and good pads... spend the rest on some braided lines and high temp fluid
 
I'm going to send all of you to school for brakes. Start a new thing..."get HS certified" for FREE! ACT NOW!
 
LS_VTEC said:
I'm going to send all of you to school for brakes. Start a new thing..."get HS certified" for FREE! ACT NOW!
Click to expand...

:bs:

post the part of your curriculum that talks about brakes and proves what I and E_SolSi said incorrect please.
 
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