Break-in-process completed!

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Teambypass

Senior Member
Read my SIGNATURE FOR MODS....my break in process is complted! I now put 600 miles on my motor after all these new parts. Along with those mods, I also bought new rod bearings.....Since GSR spec for compression is within 135 to 270 max and since I had put high compression pistons on, but the compression test come out 200 and 210....is this ok for having all these mods? thanks
 
its the variance that sucks. as long as all 4 are 200 200 210 205 etc, its good. less than 10% is what you want.

-B at claytons
 
high compression pistons and your only at around 200? my 2000 civic si engine is stock pistons and compression is at 225.
 
I am so disapointed to find that those compression are not even right! I did it all wrong, I crancked it for a couple times and the compression turn out to be 180 for all 4, and then I turn the key to off position and crancked it again, I turn the key to off position and crancked in total of 3 times which add up the compression to 200 and 210, so in reality, the compressions are only 180 for each cylinder. I have no idea what's wrong with my car anymore. I got high comp 12:3:1 pistons, ultralite rods, new rod bearings, and even oil pump and water pump, timing belt. the only thing that's not new is the crank and its bearing. My method of break in....my builder said just drive like 500 miles normal and doing it this way, I will not overload the new rod bearings and everything else should be fine. so, help me out, there is nothing apprearancely wrong with my car. could it be that every mods such as the skunk2 camshafts are installed in normal spec with no adjustment at all that might had cause this..........the car is untune and runs like shit.......I am in the process of getting hodata and tune it. but i doubted that this would have anything to do with the compression ratio. Any idea of what I should check for this low compression problem????could it be that some of the crank bearings are broken or the crank itself? help please.....thanks
 
Originally posted by Teambypass@Apr 19 2004, 02:56 PM
I am so disapointed to find that those compression are not even right! I did it all wrong, I crancked it for a couple times and the compression turn out to be 180 for all 4, and then I turn the key to off position and crancked it again, I turn the key to off position and crancked in total of 3 times which add up the compression to 200 and 210, so in reality, the compressions are only 180 for each cylinder. I have no idea what's wrong with my car anymore. I got high comp 12:3:1 pistons, ultralite rods, new rod bearings, and even oil pump and water pump, timing belt. the only thing that's not new is the crank and its bearing. My method of break in....my builder said just drive like 500 miles normal and doing it this way, I will not overload the new rod bearings and everything else should be fine. so, help me out, there is nothing apprearancely wrong with my car. could it be that every mods such as the skunk2 camshafts are installed in normal spec with no adjustment at all that might had cause this..........the car is untune and runs like shit.......I am in the process of getting hodata and tune it. but i doubted that this would have anything to do with the compression ratio. Any idea of what I should check for this low compression problem????could it be that some of the crank bearings are broken or the crank itself? help please.....thanks

180 is not that bad!!!!!! I bet Your rings did not seat properly.............Did the cylinders get honed?????????? What kind of Rings where used?????????????
 
I used the rings that came with the pistons. LAST NIGHT, I TOOK IT TO A LOCAL RACE TRACK AND DID A 100 MPH AT 14.5 A LITTLE FASTER THAN MY STOCK TIME. THIS REALLY disapointed me since I have spend over $3200 for parts and labor. If the compressions are higher, then I probably hit mid 13s or somewhere around there. I will do a leak down test and find another reputable shop to check why compression was so low with high compression pistons(this is the only way to find out if they prior shop actually install all the parts that I bought). I dont know if this is the problem because of the EASY BREAK-IN (DRIVING FOR 600 MILES AND GUNS IT). I kinda skiptical to use other methods everything such as rod bearings, rings, valves and other stuffs are so new and if I use other method of hard break in, i might overload them and crack them. The possible things that could cause low compression is that the crank bearing might be broken or I might have a cracked cylinder wall since everythings are good. thanks for the helps guys.
 
Originally posted by Teambypass@Apr 20 2004, 08:45 AM
The possible things that could cause low compression is that the crank bearing might be broken or I might have a cracked cylinder wall since everythings are good. thanks for the helps guys.

NA!!!! If the bearing was broken or spun it would knock!!!!

If the cylinder wall was cracked, white smoke would come from the exhaust.

I think the person who built your engine just did a bad job!!!! Either on the Head work or the rings did not seat.

I built my own engine and the break-in method was..........Drive 300 miles easy then, I was hard on it for the next 100 or so miles off and on........Now I drive it normally. It has been 2200 miles and My Compression test came out around 205 av. on all four cylinders.

Good Luck!!!!
 
check that your valve lash is at spec. if one of your valves (or all of them) is not closing fully, you will lose compression. i would definately bring it to another shop to have it checked out. it sounds like the shop that did the work did a half assed rush job on it. your engine should be running a little faster than 14.5 good luck
 
high compression pistons have no effect on a compression test. Your compression tests aren't great but they aren't terrible. Valve lash could be part of it. And with higher lift cams there is more valve overlap that could affect your results I think. And it seems like you may have gotten a poor seal with your rings.
 
thanks guys. I really appreciated those, almost tearful comments. all I need is a p28 ecu and then my hodata system should be completed and I will tune the car and see how it runs. If it still not break into the 13s then I will have it check by another shop. thanks
 
WHAT IS YOUR METHOD OF CHECKING COMPRESSION???? this passed weekend, I went home (2 hrs drive from my school). I took the car to the shop that I got the repair done. this is how they did the compression check.....

The guy took all the injectors off (instead of taking one at a time to do the compression check and then install it back and move on to the next one). He then unclicked all the injectors' clicks (I ask why....he said that so no fuel will come out) and then he unpluge the harness(same why as I did) and then he have me start the car and ask me to step on the gas pedal(THIS IS WHAT I DIDNT DO ) so that the throtlle is wide open and the compression come out to be 240 for all four....is this the right method of doing it???? the only different about this method from what I did is that he took all the injectors off (to save time) and unclicked the injector clicks plus step on the gas to have a wide open throttle.. I think i am an idiot for doing it wrong the first place.....thanks for all the inputs
 
Originally posted by Teambypass@Apr 20 2004, 06:45 AM
I kinda skiptical to use other methods everything such as rod bearings, rings, valves and other stuffs are so new and if I use other method of hard break in, i might overload them and crack them.

Better to find problems with parts early on rather than 10,000 miles down the road. B)
 
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