bringing the CRX back to the track build/thread

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Ok. Not THAT unconventional lol. Not feeling neon green.
 
I just think green and red would look bad. Maybe if I had a white car. I still want it to look good
 
remember... its just paint

if you do something and you dont like it or you get bored of what you have going on... nothing is stopping you from striping them and painting them again
 
ive actually seen quite a few like that. i think GE does it a lot. but i could be confusing that with RR engines. not really sure why jet engine mfgs do that, 99% of people wouldnt notice.

anyway. i dont think neon green is gonna be the ticket here. hmmm, i need to think about this. i kinda wish my car was white, cause then i would do green lol.
 
your car can be white ;)
 
yea, im gonna paint it, but im a big fan of "if you do it, do it right". theres nothing i hate more than seeing a car with a nice paint job and then the engine bay is a completely different color. and i really, really, REALLY dont want to pull the engine and interior and wiring to paint the whole car. so im gonna just repaint it the same color and freshen it up a bit.
 
now you have me thinking about it... no, no i cant!
 
red is a tough color... if you are going to paint them bronze or gold, i would go with a bright gold

like this
RedSTi.jpg



a darker bronze on a bright red car is going to look dingy
like this
2242596443_f2d1be1db4_o.jpg


bronze would look a lot better on a darker red
like this
100907_15101.jpg


im not sure if this color would work on a bright red... maybe a darker more maroon type red would work better with them :shrug2:
DSC02496.jpg

but they are hot
:D :D :D

im still leaning for the safety yellow/green color
2wdaeee.jpg

100_1065%2520edit.jpg
gramlights57d_y.jpg


:werd: :D :D :D :fosho2:
 
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haha anybody notice the sticker on the focus? DOHC ZETEC, never seen that before, doin it honda style!
 
so a little update.

i was working on the driver side front suspension. i had the old ball joint pressed out, bearing pressed out, new ARP studs pressed in, new bearing pressed in. i was pressing in the hub to the new bearing and i gues i didnt support the inner race and it popped out the back side. i tried to press it back in and it seemed to go back in, but the seal got pushed in in the process. it probably would have been fine but i didnt want to chance it. so i pressed the bearing back out and bought a new one. so the front is on hold for now til i get the new bearing.

i also removed the bumpers and fenders. itll make working on the car a little easier, plus i want to do some minor body work and paint it. im thinking about getting the gear and painting it myself, though i know nothing about it and have never attempted body work before. we'll see. im replacing the fenders and doors to help get rid of the rust.

and i did some work today as well. i installed the new lower ball joint. after that was done i figured i would install the ES poly shifter bushings. got under the car and realized i had to remove the header to get the linkage off (tight fit), so i took that off and fought with the bushings a bit to get them installed.

while under there i looked up at the steering rack saw the worn/torn boots and the worn out inner and outer tie rods on the drivers side. so i said fuck it. i removed the rack and im going to rebuild it. new seals, lube, rack end bushing, etc. ill get some ES poly rack mounts too to stiffen up the connection to the subframe. i know i used to have these laying around, but i may have discarded them, ill have to look. also im throwing around the idea of using the quaiffe rack and pinion. not sure though.

i also decided that i was going to go full spherical bushings. front and rear LCAs, trailing arm, camber arms, toe arms. poly will remain in the sways, shifter, front upper control arm, steering rack. and im gonna bump up the rear springs from 400 lbs to 600 lbs.
 
Yay. More updates.

I started taking apart the steering rack. Really I just took the boots off and disconnected the tie rods. I'm going to just replace the boots since the joints are fine. I am replacing the rack ends though since they are pretty well done. Once I get all the parts I'm going to tear it down and completely rebuild it.

So I started working on the rears. I took off the hub/bearing and pressed in the new ARP studs and put it all back together withthe new rotor. I left the rears there since I'm waiting on my new spherical parts :)

No pics again. I can't work well when stopping to take pics lol. I'll get some pics when I have more exciting stuff to photo.
 
Ian,
Get the Quaife pinon for that rack for a quicker ratio. Is it a manual rack?
 
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