Build log: b16b

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97CTR

Senior Member
I just got my block back and a few misc. parts so now its time to put it all together again. Maybe this should be in multimedia? But I plan on doing maybe a little writeup of the build process to help provide a little info. Build list:

HEAD

PR3 casting
JUN III cams
Golden Eagle cam gears
Portflow port and polish and 3angle valve job
Portflow inners type R outers
Titanium retainers
Bronze valve guides
New rocker arms
JG "sheetmetal" intake w/70mm RPM service throttle body
RC 440 injectors
GE fuel rail
Walbro fuel pump
ARC intake


BLOCK

B16b sleeved to 85mm by Benson's
GSR crank balanced and micropolished by Benson's
Probe I beam rods
CP 8.1cc strutted pistons 12.5:1 compression
Rage 4-2-1 header

ITR trans with 4.78 final drive
Hondata s200, plxm300 wideband o2

Last year at 81mm with a crap ebay header and stock manifold I put down 208whp and 140ft/lbs. I'm hoping for 240 and 160 this year, we will see!!! I should have it together within the week, I'll post up more pics as I go along. Here are some to get started.

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HR-V owner seeking more power.!!!

Hi everyone.Looking for any help tuning a european spec Honda HR-V 4x4 fitted with a D16W1 engine.Possible head swops,ecu swops.????? any help appreciated.thanks.:) :)
 
HR-V said:
Hi everyone.Looking for any help tuning a european spec Honda HR-V 4x4 fitted with a D16W1 engine.Possible head swops,ecu swops.????? any help appreciated.thanks.:) :)

start your own thread.
 
I got my my ARP main studs the other day so I put the crank in and made sure all of my bearing clearances were on.

I first chased all of the mains with the appropriate tap and cleaned with compressed air.
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Next I cleaned the journals of the crank with some brake clean. Because as many of you may know, when building an engine you can never have anything too clean.

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I put the crank in the the block, lubed up my main studs and torqued down the main caps to check the clearances with plastigauge.

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Bearing clearances all came out to .015" right where I wanted them. And yes the engine is in my custom "clean room" aka the kitchen.


Tomorrow I think I will do the rod bearings, size the rings and get the pistons installed. That is if I get the brakes done on my old lady's eclipse (so I can get it sold) and fix the suspension on my beater 96 hatch.
 
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did you have the main journals on the block resized for the arp studs? and is the tap a bottoming tap? or just a regular tap?
 
No, I didn't have the mains align bored. I did torque the bridge and caps down with the studs and used my dial bore gauge and checked them for out of round and diameter and they were all still good. I used the same color bearings with the same crank I had last year and all of the clearances still matched those that I had recorded last year so its all good. But you are right, ARP does recomend that you get the mains align bored when you change to their studs. Because of clamping force and what not.

I've had this motor for over three years now, and I blueprinted it last year. So we know each other well:cool:
 
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the type R outer springs able to take the lift of the JUN cams?

Looking good btw. That block is sexy as hell.
 
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Portflow outers, type r inners. Going slow right now, just got my pistons coated and I have been away on vacation for the past two weeks. Will start the final assembly sometime this week.
 
Got my ceramic coated pistons back this week. So I sized my rings and mounted the pistons on the rods. Should be good to go in a week or so. I'll keep postin pics as I go along.

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When you were at 81mm bore what crank were you using?
 
I was using a gsr crank, that I had micropolished. Along with probe I beams and 12.5:1 probe pistons
 
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Finally got around to putting the rods and pistons in. Its pretty much all gravy from here on out. Hopefully I can have it in and running in two weeks time.
 
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