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Building a NA LS/vtec

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by projectxspeed, Dec 13, 2003.

  1. projectxspeed

    projectxspeed Senior Member

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    The general opinion seems to be that there is a lot of power in the LS/vtec. Since I have the important pieces (ls complete setup and vtec head b16a ) I figured me too. I want to run 12-13 sec 1/4 mi times with a full interior. I want to keep the setup NA, and use all honda oem parts. (this car still needs to get me from point a to b on a daily basis) What should I use for internal on the block and head? Should I look into a port and polish? Should I bore out my block? What do I need for add on's (do I need to replace the oil pump/ water pump with like a type r?) I wanna do an NA ls/vtec, but more importantly I wanna do it right

    thx
    guys
     
  2. lsvtec

    lsvtec GNU/Linux Evangelist

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    Get the R oil pump and a B series VTEC water pump and timing belt.

    As for internals, if you want to stay Honda parts you will need B16 pistons if you don't want to modify the rods or CTR pistons if you don't mind have the rods shaved a little. I would use ARP fasteners instead of the Honda ones for a little extra insurance. What car is this going in? It may be difficult to get to 12's all motor with a full interior.
     
  3. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    look here, diy racing... will tell you everything you need to know about LSVtec :D

    Good luck!
     
  4. exospeed*com

    exospeed*com Member

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    It shouldnt be too difficult to get 12's on an All Honda parts LS/VTEC:
    heres a setup we do alot of:
    LS block with CTR pistons
    -Vtec oil pump
    Vtec head with CTR camshafts
    get some decent cam gears
    fuel pressure regulator
    JDM 4-1 Header
    stock GSR ECU

    this combination got 12.8s on one of our customers CRX.
    onn slicks of course.

    and by just upgrading to some aftermarket cams, you can pump out 210 hp to the wheels.

    Wil
     
  5. projectxspeed

    projectxspeed Senior Member

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    I have a 95 integra with the LS in it currently. I am going to be using it. I don't mind if I hit low 13's high 12's. I agree using ARP is a better way to go. What about swapping type r pisons and rods? I am open to machine work, what things should I consider.

    thx
    dave
     
  6. lsvtec

    lsvtec GNU/Linux Evangelist

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    Type R rods are not the correct length.
     
  7. projectxspeed

    projectxspeed Senior Member

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    Should I look into a port and polish for the head? What about boring out the bottom?

    thx
    dave
     
  8. projectxspeed

    projectxspeed Senior Member

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  9. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    what happend to your right front wheel?
     
  10. NotUrAverage_Si

    NotUrAverage_Si Senior Member

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    you will not hit 12's in a 95 integra with full interior.

    do not use type r rods and if you're going to use type r pistons be sure to get CTR because they make higher compression than ITR's. you will need to get some machine work done on the head. if you're going to get your head milled (which I don't reccommend because ls/vtec has no valve relief) than be sure to upgrade the valve train, since you're wanting to stay with OEM honda parts Type R valve train would be what you want. you'll also want to pick up an ls head gasket, an ls timing belt should work with an ls water pump, or pick up a gsr timing belt with a gsr water pump. if you have extra $ then go ahead and get the head ported and polished. pick up a new clutch while you're at it since you want to do things right the first time. hmm I don't think I forgot anything.

    12's are a little out of your reach my friend, and by a little, I mean alot. :thumbsup:
     
  11. projectxspeed

    projectxspeed Senior Member

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    You are wise in the ways of honda. I am leaning towards a gsr water pump for that xtra insurance. Besides the timing belt would I have to swap any other pieces? If I can't reach 12's what do you think I will hit with:: Type R parts, ls/vtec, and full interior?
     
  12. projectxspeed

    projectxspeed Senior Member

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    BTW the reason for the wheel is step one of repairs. Since then I have gotten a regular 14'' steel to replace it, and Im rolling on 4 Yoko all seasons :( lousy winter. In the spring I plan to get lightweight 15's or 16's rims with lo pro's.
     
  13. NotUrAverage_Si

    NotUrAverage_Si Senior Member

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    actually I did forget one thing, you'll need to buy steel braided hose and fittings as well to run the oil line. heres what you'll need: machine work on head, ls head gasket, new timing belt/water pump, steel braided hose, fittings, new clutch, CTR pistons/rings (standard bore will be fine so don't bore your block), possibly want to upgrade the valve train to play it safe.

    in your integra I would expect to hit mid to high 13's w/slicks, but there are also alot of things you have to take into consideration, such as the conditions of the track, the weather, your driving skills, etc.
     
  14. NotUrAverage_Si

    NotUrAverage_Si Senior Member

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    also go get your car dyno tuned by someone who knows what they're doing.
     
  15. simplyfast

    simplyfast Senior Member

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    why wouldnt you want to get oversized pistons and bore your block while youre rebuilding it? you should also machine the deck of the block to make sure youre working with a perfectly flat surface. youre also goin to have to get the rod's refitted for the new bearings, along with all other bearing surfaces. while everything is open, i'd suggest having the rods bead blasted/polished for additional strength. id also have the machine shop figure out the finished weight of the rods/pistons and have them balance out the crank. have them balance it to your redline, this will help you gain longevity out of your bottom end.

    also, have the head r&r'd. if you dont, your simply inviting problems. run a ctr intake bumpstick with just about any exhaust bumpstick of the oem variety. also have them 5 angle your valve seats, re-cut the valves, and heat the springs to gain stiffness out of them.

    also have everything in your intake line cleaned and matched to each other if thats the least you do. id have the TB polished, the IM ported/polished/matched, and the head shipped off to endyn telling them what the head is goin to be used for build wise, and everything i am gonna run with it and where i wanted my power....which should be mid powerband with more emphasis on torque so you can run a different gearbox.

    ctr pistons are over 1 ounce heavier than b16a's. the only "advantage" ctr's have is that moly coating.

    an ls waterpump will spin faster than a b16, there is a 3 tooth difference. some say you cant use it (the ls), it may be true, so there is a heads up.
     
  16. lsvtec

    lsvtec GNU/Linux Evangelist

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    How about the higher compression ratio???


    Yes the LS water pump can be used if you also use the LS timing belt. It does spin faster so it flows more coolant at lower RPM than the VTEC water pump. It also begins to cavitate at a lower RPM, this is why most of us choose to run the VTEC pump and belt. I have seen the LS pump run to 8200 RPM often and hard without failure, I just chose to play it safe.
     
  17. gocivicls

    gocivicls Senior Member

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    I wouldn't do that!!! I would get the pistons modified and not the rods. While they are out get the rods shotpeened, ARP fasteners, and resized.

    Something will have to be modified since you have a B18B. Either will work but why weaken the rods?
     
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