start by buying a Helms (not Haynes) manual for the engine and for your CRX. will be the best $120 you ever spend for your car.
do you have your engine converted to obd1? or is it obd0 still? a little bit of "big picture" understanding is going to be required for something like this. what you are wanting to do is build an LS/VTEC engine and then boost it. you shouldnt worry about boost just yet. unless you are planning to spend the money on getting it sleeved. either way, theres no reason to not also go with ARP head studs too.
you will need to have the block bored and/or honed if you plan to replace pistons. then install the pistons and rings. and install the rest of the internals. you will need some specialized engine building tools as well as be prepared to pay for machine work.
unless you are just planning to slap the head on, do the vtec conversion, then try to boost with stock internals/sleeves. you can do that, but i wouldnt recommend it if you want any kind of reliability or durability.
you sound like youre getting a little over your head. if you are serious about this, i have 3 suggestions:
1. pay someone else to properly build your setup
2. do TONS of research, then do more research. look up exactly how an engine works and what is needed for disassembly and assembly. research what setups have worked for others in the past, etc. get advice from professionals, and others who have done this before. plan out the build before buy or assemble anything. figure out what tools you will need to get the job done. dont just buy a ton of parts then realize you dont have the tools to put it together. dont easy/cheap take shortcuts.
3. look into possibly forgetting about the VTEC head, and boosting the LS block as it is (or built internally for boost) . many people have been very satisfied with the results. sometimes the added complexity of the VTEC can cause issues and headaches for little additional gain.
Thanks for the info. I do apologize, I failed to mention that I'm building a complete GSR engine, block, head, valve cover, internals etc. I am going to do further research pretty intensively before I build it, I want to do it myself for the experience and appreciation of when I put the key in the ignition after swapping it. I plan on doing it over a period of 6 months (give or take a month or so).
I have a buddy that's gonna sell me a GSR block and I'll have it bored out to 81.5mm from the stock 81mm.
But, however, these are the parts I've got myself listed for the build:
CP Forged Pistons (Acura Integra GSR b18/b18c/b18c1/b18C5)
Eagle H-Beam Rods (Honda/Acura GSR b18/b18c)
Cometic Complete Bottom End Gasket Kit (Integra GSR b18c/b18c1)
Cometic Complete Top End Gasket Kit (Integra GSR b18/b18c1)
ACL Race Bearings (Acura Integra GSR b18/b18c/b18c1/b18c5)
ARP Main Studs (Honda/Acura GSR b18/b18c/b18c1)
ARP Headstuds (Honda/Acura GSR b18/b18c)
Supertech Block Guard (Honda b18/b18c/b18c1/b18c5)
Genuine OEM Honda Type R Oil Pump (GSR b18/b18c/b18c1)
Toda Heavy Duty Oil Pump Gear (Integra GSR b18/b18c/b18c1)
Gates Racing Kevlar Timing Belt (Acura Integra GSR b18/b18c/b18c1)
ATI Street Super Damper Crank Pulley (Acura Integra GSR b18c1)
Eagle Forged 4340 Crank (b18/b18c/b18c1/b18c5)
Darton Flanged Dry Sleeves (Integra GSR b18c1/b18c/b18c5 Type R)
and a b-series engine mount kit cable tranny.
Please let me know if I missed anything, any personal opinions, I'm an open person and I'd greatly appreciate some guidance.