Building Ls for Boost

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Yea I am going to sleeve the block for sure. I was looking to use 81.5 to ensure that the cylinder walls will be the thickest for reliability.
 
He is building an LS.

OP, my friend has a n LSVTEC with a completly stock B16 head and is making about 400whp on 16psi with a 60-1. If you do decide to buy cams anything higher than a stage1 will require springs, and if you do that then you might as well put new valves in it too.

forgot you building an ls.My bad. efhondakid is correct.

for the record: vtec cam will only go in a vtec head.they are not transferrable to an ls head.
 
So any opinion on what sleeves previous experince? I know dart and eagle have pretty good rep but is there any other brand with decent rep?
 
I did some looking into to Benson Sleeving, has anyone sent their motor to them to build including sleeving? What is your opinion on that or atleast sleeving the block? What compression ratio should I shoot for? 9 something?
 
When I was lookin at Benson for sleeving I was put under the impression that he just installs the sleeves and does all the corresponding machine work. Then, its up to you to do the final assembly. Is that not the case?

As far as CR, I am using 9.0:1. But, it all depends on what you want the car to do.
 
They do the machine work and all this....


How your block is built.....
When your block is returned from sleeving, it has been hot tanked, surfaced and bored/honed to size. We then wash your block with soap and water, blow dry it and coat it with wd40. Your crank is crack checked, micropolished and balanced. We choose CP Pistons and rings for all out builds as we consider them to be the finest piston made at any price. Pauter, Manley or Eagle rods are chosen based on your request. ACL bearings are used. All parts are precision measured and assembled. New OEM oil and water pumps are installed. Pricing is as follows:
Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
OEM (TypeR) oil pump
Lower gasket set
Blueprint and assembly
Boxing, return shipping and insurance (lower 48 only)
Total $3450

Eagle rods substituted for Pauters...$3050

Economy build (no sleeves, bored to 81.5mm) with CP's and Eagle rods...$2350


That seems a lil on the pricey side doesn't it?
 
That doesnt sound right. Is that just a shop that uses Benson?

Dont micropolish and balance the crank. Its better in the factory condition than most shops can do. Also, dont use ACL bearings, OEM Honda bearings are better.
 
That is off of benson's website. It is 975 for them to hot tank paint and install sleeves with the price of sleeves. Should I just go that route since they are charging a lil over 2k more to do rest the work when i can get cp pistons, eagle rods, and 35 lbs eagle crank for around 1200 new and then put it together myself and use oem bearings, water pump and oil pump? That way I can save the remaining 800 and buy motor mounts, tune, tb, lil stuff like that? I'm just worried about spending all this $$$ on this motor and when I put it together something gets hosed. I can tackle it no doubt, but it just takes one thing to mess everything up.
 
Keep you factory crank, and dont do a single thing to it if its still in good condition. Just run it like it is. Get a full set of OEM bearings and gaskets, and use all of em. Get your sleeves installed by the manufacturer, not a middle man shop. Get a set of forged pistons, and forged rods. Then tie it all off with ARP hardware. That will be more than enough for you.
 
Keep you factory crank, and dont do a single thing to it if its still in good condition. Just run it like it is. Get a full set of OEM bearings and gaskets, and use all of em. Get your sleeves installed by the manufacturer, not a middle man shop. Get a set of forged pistons, and forged rods. Then tie it all off with ARP hardware. That will be more than enough for you.
:yes: But stock sleeves are good till about 400hp. Its just a lot of money to spend on something you may not really need.
 
Itll still be reliable, but 400 is as far as you wanna go on stock sleeves, if you want it to last. It doesnt sound like your tryin to build a dyno queen thatll make 5 pulls and blow up, so all that bullshit you see in magazines about makin 500 horse on stock internals doesnt apply. Personally I say after 350 horse you should sleeve, but ef is right, there are plenty of ppl make 400 or a lil more on stock sleeves.
 
I will sleeve to be on the safe side. Who knows what i'll put to my motor after I build it. I don't wana be limited after build the motor.
 
I just went back and re-read the thread. If you sleeve, why not go with a biger bore than 81.5? When you sleeve it, theyre gunna bore and hone anyways, so why not go for the gold the first time?
 
I just wanted to stay reliable that is what i'm kinda worried about because this is my first build. What bore 82 83? I know 84 is pressing it but will produce most outcome? I want to personally build my motor by hand but i'm worried about trashing my motor. I know it can't that hard because so many people do it, its just one of those things your unsure of untill you try it first.
 
There are quite a few ppl makin the same power you want with an 84mm bore, so you shouldnt have any problems. Personally, Im aimin at mid 400's on a 84mm. The first build is always a bit nerve racking, but as long as you follow the tried and true methods and do everything right, the end result will be good.
 
The B20's are 84mm bores stock, and people resleeve them for reliability (because we all know how reliable stock B20 sleeves are) and show good results.
 
Cool thanks guys. I'll prolly go with 83 84 mm build then cuz that will yield the most power compared to the same setup. Do you know of any good threads that offer quality info on building a motor?
 
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