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cam timing off

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by white lude, Nov 18, 2004.

  1. white lude

    white lude Member

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    :eek: Ok guys Im pretty shure i screwed up, though the engine doesent sound bad. I did the h23 - h22 swap and Finaly got everything done, and i mean everything.I fired it up and couild instantly tell it wasnt running right. practicly little to no throttle response, barely any horsepower, bogging down, it was running like shit. turns out my cam timing was off a little bit. So my question is did I bend a Valve or just tap it a little bit? Before I corrected the timing I had driven it only to the mufler shop which is about 4 blocks from where im at, and kept it in low RPM's. If you think I did mess up the valves how much do u think that would cost to be replaced/ fixed. I never heard any loud knocking maybee a little bit of spring tap or something but nothing loud.
     
  2. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    pull a compression test to see if they are still sealing

    if it still runs then i;m guessing its not too bad... but tweaked valves can seriously hurt performance as well as consume uber oil...

    are you sure the cam timing was off?
    and you;ve already fixed it?
    and how does it run after you've fixed it

    what ecu are you running? P13?
     
  3. white lude

    white lude Member

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    The p14 is in and in all honesty I got fed up with messing with it and took it to the shop to have them fix it. They r the ones who told me the cam timing was of because two of my cylinders were running cold. They r fixing it as I type but with this new news im wondering if i should just try to rep[lace any bent valves?
     
  4. TeamUrbanChaos

    TeamUrbanChaos Certified H22 Super-tech

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    i thought the p14 was NON- VTEC?? and if you have the p13 wouldnt the knock sensor retartd the timing anyways??
     
  5. white lude

    white lude Member

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  6. white lude

    white lude Member

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    Well i got a update, The timing is fine but Im still not getting alot of combustion in my first and last cylinders they r running cold. Im going to try new wires maybee that will fix it. What else do u think it could be? there arnt any engine codes.
     
  7. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    Did you change the plugs when you did the swap? New wires are a good idea. A new cap and rotor in the distributor couldn't hurt. After you replace all that, check each one of the plugs for a good spark.
     
  8. white lude

    white lude Member

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    Well the plugs looked good so I kept them in there. The distributor has the internal coil and I just hooked the jumper wire to it. Maybee this could be a problem as well.Should I put The h23 distributor on there? Man other than that I have no clue what it could be
     
  9. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    Reusing the plugs was a bad idea. Spend $8 and get some new NGK plugs.

    There could be a problem with the distro setup, but I don't know very much about converting internal/external coil distro's. My EX Accord was internal coil, and my JDM H22 was internal coil. Plug and play.
     
  10. white lude

    white lude Member

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    Thanx for the advice bro I appreciate it. i think it has to do with the ignition system somewhere Im still getting gas in the cylinders but no fire.
     
  11. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    when you use that jumper wire, all you are doing is giving the distributor power.........it's all or nothing. That jumper wire isn't "re-wiring" the distributor by any means. If you are getting spark, then you wired it correctly. However, this doesn't mean that your distributor is good, or that it won't need maintenance.

    Do the maintenance, then check it again for proper spark.
     
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