can i turbo my stock f22a1 ?

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jeez thats awsome really??

i really want to direct swap the f22a1

to a newer less milage one, so that i can have a stronger engine.

mine runs great

but has 200K on it

so what do ui think/>>?

you just need to sit down and see what you realistically wanna do/spend, also set up a timeline...
you best bet would be replacing the internals.. whether you use your current motor or buy another F22a and work on that so you can still have a car to drive.. replacing the pistons, rings, rods, crank (if you wish) would make the motor that much better especially if you dropped the compression and bought all forged parts.. Head work is also safe to do (on any car actually) especially if you plan on boosting your motor..

how much do you have to spend/ plan on spending for the build from start to finish??
and what are your HP goals at the end??
 
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coul di boost my stock f22a1 motor

i only wana run like 2-4 pounds but tell me what u think i really have no idea>?

back to the original question, yes, boost it. on the f22s, 4-8psi is waaaaaay safe, definitely on a stock motor, even with high mileage. hell, you could run an fmu with that low of a boost setting, piece together a setup with a dsm manifold/turbo, and you have boost for less than half the price of an h swap, with the power to shit on any n/a h swapped accord............seems like an easy decision to me;) check out homemadeturbo.com.
 
This thread is full of FAIL and MISINFORMATION. Or maybe lack of correction is a better way to put it.

PSI means NOTHING. You need to choose a POWER GOAL. Then build your car to meet that goal (i.e. choose the right internals, turbo, and manifold for that goal).

Thats the correct place to start. Not "2-4 PSI". That will not get you anywhere.
 
This thread is full of FAIL and MISINFORMATION. Or maybe lack of correction is a better way to put it.

PSI means NOTHING. You need to choose a POWER GOAL. Then build your car to meet that goal (i.e. choose the right internals, turbo, and manifold for that goal).

Thats the correct place to start. Not "2-4 PSI". That will not get you anywhere.

Fuckin :werd: I said it at the begining. You gotta learn the basics before you can attempt a turbo build. You gotta walk before you can run.
 
yes thansk to all

good post

i think im going to do this over winter
 
hey guys is there any site or anything that will help me to install my own turbo kit>??

i understand most of it but i dont get some of it liek the oil drain and a few other things


any help please



thanks
 
hey guys is there any site or anything that will help me to install my own turbo kit>??

i understand most of it but i dont get some of it liek the oil drain and a few other things

any help please

thanks

I would suggest this website: Yellow Pages Local Directory - YELLOWPAGES.COM

Look up the phone number for performance shops in your area, call them, and ask for an estimate on a turbo install...
 
??????? im trying to learn to do this myself...............

no thanks
 
??????? im trying to learn to do this myself...............

no thanks

and if you dont know what your doing your going to fuck shit up.. that little thing about the oil that you dont know is a big thing... but for a website than can help you with something to do with your honda ummmmmmmmmm www.hondaswap.com might be a good spot to check, some of those guys know what they are talking about.
 
This thread is full of FAIL and MISINFORMATION. Or maybe lack of correction is a better way to put it.

PSI means NOTHING. You need to choose a POWER GOAL. Then build your car to meet that goal (i.e. choose the right internals, turbo, and manifold for that goal).

Thats the correct place to start. Not "2-4 PSI". That will not get you anywhere.
Thank you thats what i was saying 2-4 is just about useless you would have tune down a small stock turbo to even achieve that and it would be almost unnoticeable
 
Dude we need to stop helping this kid, leaves negative rep when you say something he doesnt want to hear
 
who does?
really? we're just trying to help you ask the question and we give you the best answer we can for your situation. take it or leave it at that no need for bad rep if we are just trying to help you. Doesn't really bother me if you only boost 2-4 psi...just saying it would be more cost effective and a bigger hp gain to build up a little and boost higher. you will be much much happier with the outcome. That's just my advice.
 
??????? im trying to learn to do this myself...............

no thanks

Do you really want to do a turbo install based on a website that somebody threw together? Go to Barnes and Noble or Borders and check out their automotive section. There are plenty of illustrated books on modifying import cars written by professionals. Check out the import magazines also. I know for a fact that Project Car magazine did an in-depth write-up on a GS-R turbo install a few months back.

Also, try and get somebody who's done this before to help you...
 
hey guys is there any site or anything that will help me to install my own turbo kit>??

i understand most of it but i dont get some of it liek the oil drain and a few other things


any help please



thanks

Here. I'll write out a basic outline of how it works, just because I'm feeling nice.

A turbocharger requires some sort of lubrication so that the bearings will last. Oil is used because we already have oil lubricated cars. On some turbos, oil AND coolant/water is used to keep the temperature down, and lubricate the bearings. Well, the oil has to come from somewhere. Generally it's from your stock oil pressure sending unit location. You can "T" off of that, or run a sandwich plate on your oil filter. Most people use steel braided line for the feed line to the turbo. That will get you oil to the turbo, and now you need some way to get it back to the engine.

This is where the drain comes into play. The drain is typically faced downwards (towards the pavement) off of the turbo. A line is then run from there to the oil pan (generally high so that you're not trying to run oil into the lower portion of the pan which is usually going to already have oil in it), in a way that it can freely flow out of the turbo and into the pan.

It is absolutely CRITICAL that your lines be sealed with some thread sealing tape and that there are no leaks/clogs, etc. A drop in oil pressure in the turbo can be catastrophic, and you'll find yourself replacing the turbo faster than you had ever imagined; However, too much pressure can also be harmful. Honda's generally produce 60-80 PSI of oil pressure in the top end. A turbocharger is generally configured for ~15 PSI. This obviously creates a problem. The way to solve this is to run a restrictor on the oil feed line of the turbo. This will restrict the amount of oil that can enter the turbo at any given time.

Again, this is just an intro. Do some research to learn more about the lubrication system before you go and do this.
 
Here. I'll write out a basic outline of how it works, just because I'm feeling nice.

A turbocharger requires some sort of lubrication so that the bearings will last. Oil is used because we already have oil lubricated cars. On some turbos, oil AND coolant/water is used to keep the temperature down, and lubricate the bearings. Well, the oil has to come from somewhere. Generally it's from your stock oil pressure sending unit location. You can "T" off of that, or run a sandwich plate on your oil filter. Most people use steel braided line for the feed line to the turbo. That will get you oil to the turbo, and now you need some way to get it back to the engine.

This is where the drain comes into play. The drain is typically faced downwards (towards the pavement) off of the turbo. A line is then run from there to the oil pan (generally high so that you're not trying to run oil into the lower portion of the pan which is usually going to already have oil in it), in a way that it can freely flow out of the turbo and into the pan.

It is absolutely CRITICAL that your lines be sealed with some thread sealing tape and that there are no leaks/clogs, etc. A drop in oil pressure in the turbo can be catastrophic, and you'll find yourself replacing the turbo faster than you had ever imagined; However, too much pressure can also be harmful. Honda's generally produce 60-80 PSI of oil pressure in the top end. A turbocharger is generally configured for ~15 PSI. This obviously creates a problem. The way to solve this is to run a restrictor on the oil feed line of the turbo. This will restrict the amount of oil that can enter the turbo at any given time.

Again, this is just an intro. Do some research to learn more about the lubrication system before you go and do this.

such a sweet heart lol
Good write up though. great spelling and puncuation.
But seariously though, great write up actually learned something
 
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