Car dies when coming to a stop.

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6

69crx69

Member
So every time I press my clutch in to stop at a stop light my engine RPMs drop down to 200 or the car dies all together. It only happened after the car warms up and it starts right up after it dies. I've replaced the Idle control valve with a known good one and have played with the idle screw to see if that would work. the mods on the engine are as follows:

B16 bored to 84mm with Golden eagle sleeves
CP 9:1 comp pistons
eagle rods
ported B16 head
duel valve springs w/ titanuim retainers
GSR cams
type R intake manifold w/matching throttle body

The engine has less then 4,000 miles (never raced) on it after a trip to the machine shop and fresh rebuild. It is turbo'd at the moment, hence the 9:1 compression. Tuned with Crome

I'm at a loss
 
Fuel pump maybe.

If it continues to get worse, and happens more and more often, I would replace the fuel pump. When mine went out in the accord, at first it would just die at a stop (from fuel sloshing), then I had a hard time getting it out of the driveway (road is at least a foot higher than driveway), then under acceleration, I would get stumbling and crap.
 
The only thing I have running off the engine is the alternator, and the pulley spins freely. I checked the fuel pressure when I rev'd the engine to simulate the issue and the fuel pressure drops maybe 2psi when the rpm's drop off. So I doubt that its the fuel pump.
 
I actually have the same issue, except mine IS fuel related. If my tank reads about 1/2 tank or anything less, and i come to a stop to fast the car will die unless i can balance braking and giving it throttle with the clutch in to keep it alive. I was told my issue was the sending line from my tank is about "1/2 way" up the tank and it may have a leak causing lose in pressure etc.. Does yours do it all the time or like mine?
 
The car idles at 900rpm when warm. When I push the clutch in and let it out in nutral, the rpm's don't drop. The car has zero issues with this when its cold. Its only after I drive it around when I have the issue. I can be driving down the freeway and press the clutch in and the car will stumble down to 200rpms or just die. If I hit the gas before it drops all the way it will stop dropping and idle at 900rpms.

I thought it might have been a fuel issue, but my fuel pressure doesn't drop any when I rev the engine and let the rpms fall. The fuel pressure gauge I have tees into the outlet side of my fuel filter and it is a liquid filled gauge to prevent jumping.

I even found some info where it was suggested that it might be the thrust bearing causing this issue. I checked the lateral movement of my crank, and there isn't any. I am able to rotate the crank, with a wrench, when the engine is cold and when the engine is hot. So I have reservations that this is the issue. I also worried that it was my oil pump, but I maintain a constant oil pressure of 80psi when I'm driving and 25psi when I'm idling.

Hopefully this helps narrow it down
 
So it has something to do with heat, so when the idle drops the engine dies. Fuel pressure regulator is the number 1 Troubleshooting go to for "frequent stalling" after warm up in the fuel delivery system. The Idle Adjusting Screw is 1 and the Idle Air Control valve is 2 in the Idle control system for "frequent stalling" after warm up.
 
Well, the idle control valve was replaced for a known good one. The fuel pressure regulator would baffle me, seeing as the fuel pressure doesn't drop when the rpms drop.
 
I'm still having this problem. I cleaned out my idle control valve with TB cleaner and set the idle according to the factory manual. I'm baffled! Anyone else have a suggestion??
 
Idle issue

I would check the FITV. It won't throw a code as it is mechanically controlled as oppose to electrically controlled like the IACV. Start the car and let it warm up till the fan comes on. Next cover the FITV hole in the TB with your finger. When the engine is at operating temp, there should be very little if any suction. If there's a noticeable amount of suction, there's something wrong with the FITV. Plugging the FITV hole with your finger should correct the idle because if you have suction, the car will run lean and want to stall out.

If that isn't the issue, and you're not getting a nice idle when warm, try the following:
-Let car warm up till fan comes on
-While running unplug IACV
-Adjust idle screw to 550rpm
-Turn car off
-Reconnect IACV
-Disconnect battery for a couple minutes to reset your ECU (there'll be a CEL from the IACV being unplugged)
-Reconnect battery
-Start the Car
 
The car is running a type R intake manifold and TB. It does not have a FITV. As far as the idle reset you described, it is the same as the process in the factory manual which I have already done. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
i had a similar prob

it turned out to be a bad fuel injector
 
I hope that its not an injector seeing as they are all brand new. I did notice that I had this problem prior to getting my turbo installed, but not to the extent that it does now. It might have died once or twice a week. No where close to how its running now. I just find it odd. The car pulls perfectly, without any hiccups or anything.
 
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