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Car isnt starting

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by DesertNightEagle, Mar 7, 2005.

  1. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    I have the frankenstein setup and had the turbo but we took that off and put on a regular header for now. I got a problem. My shop is just about done with my car but we cant get it to start, seems like the injectors arent opening. we have pressure at the filter, and have spark from the coil plug and spark plugs. we have the old h23 ecu in right now to see if we can just get it running then later swap to a different ecu. Could the problem be the ecu? Right now its throwing code 6. Whats optimum choice for the ecu? I was thinking p13 but they suggested p72(i believe thats for a GSR). Any advice on getting the fuel to the engine would help, thank you.
     
  2. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    you have an lsvtec?
    and you;re trying to run it with an h23 ecu?
    why?
    that could be a problem...
     
  3. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    He's got an H23/VTEC hybrid.
     
  4. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    the original ecu is in there for now, running short on money and i just want to be able to drive it up the trailer or drive it home so that it can sit as i build up money for the ecu.
     
  5. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    what wiring did you mess with?

    code 6 is the ECT sensor. It's the one on the head below your distributor. It's really easy to plug something else onto that sensor, like a coolant fan switch.

    Without that, your car will be coldblooded as a beoooootch. The ECU plugs in a code to tell your car it's warm. So until your car is warm it'll run like shit, if you get it started. You might try a block heater, and partial throttle. That or verify that the ECT is fine.

    Code 16 is fuel injector, in case you looked at it wrong.
     
  6. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    P28 or P72.

    P72 runs knock and IAB. P28 does not. Both have great aftermarket support for your turbo application tuning needs.

    P13 is great for stock, but the engine management support is non-existent. No Uberdata or Hondata for the P13. :shrug:
     
  7. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    cool, thanks tab. i'll head to the shop and see if that is the problem.
     
  8. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    forgot to ask, p72 is plug and play or do i need to move anything around via wiring. and would the ecu by itself be the reason why the injectors arent opening?
     
  9. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    The P72 is plug and play as far as I know. It will run lean on the maps, but the injectors should open. Just about any OBD 1 ECU should start the car if everything else is right.
     
  10. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    Well, shop plugged in p72 ecu, car still didnt start. i'm starting to wonder if they need to bleed the fuel rail or something, maybe a huge air pocket is preventing fuel from going in the engine. i'm starting to run out of ideas, i can only think of a few things that would prevent it from starting at this point, it could be the throttlebody not letting any air in, or the fuel pressure regulator isnt allowing any fuel through. any suggestions?
     
  11. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    any luck yet?

    you could bleed the fuel line easy enough, but I doubt that it's necessary. The regulator bypasses the unused fuel back to the tank, so the rail isn't really the end of the line. Taking off the fuel line to the rail and turning the key on is all that needs to be done to check for fuel. The pump comes on with the key, or should. You could also try a spray bottle with gasoline in it spraying into the intake while turning the engine over. It's crude, but might fire the car over if fuel is the problem. It won't take much, and of course don't catch yourself or the engine on fire.
     
  12. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    we got it started, but it leaks fluid like crazy. we have purplish tint fluid on the ground after its started, seems like its coming from the tranny. there also seems like a small oil leak between the head and the block. I dunno about all this, i'm thinking i should sell everything before i head into the army. Any buyers? i can probably part out then dump the rest of the car in a junkyard. I'll list some after market parts i have:
    crower cams stage 1
    aem adjustable cam gears
    aem fuel rail
    aem power pulleys
    str throttlebody
    Golden eagle Intake manifold
    dc sports header
    C&R radiator
    Injen CAI
    h22 head
    i also have parts of a turbo kit i'll sell too
    spearco intercooler with custom made tanks
    maxrev turbo manifold
    t3/t4 hybrid turbo
    maxrev downpipe (has t3 flange on it tho)
    turbonetics wastegate
    unless anyone has any suggestions that could help, i'll just have to get rid of this

    Edit: oh and for anyone that lives near baltimore, never ever take your car to North End Service Station in Aberdeen. They have no fucking clue what they are doing.
     
  13. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    Sorry to hear about all that. I hate it when you do tons of work just to be crushed. You should hold on to your stuff, and keep hope alive.

    Good luck.
     
  14. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    yeah, we're trying everything we can, we can not get cylinder #1 to work, its clean and colder than the rest, and if we have spark on it but if we plug it in doesnt fire, if we take off the wire there is no difference. however we found out its not tranny fluid thats leaking, its power steering fluid that is leaking in the compressor thingy behind the engine. we still do have an oil leak where the head and the block meets, it does idle now, just very low. I'm going to explore my options on seeing if the injector isnt opening up or the valves are opening cuz when you take out the spark plug it has oil on top of it. I just hope i get it running right before i head off to basic training
     
  15. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    score, fixed it. the injector was bad, went to pepboys and got one (cuz thats all they have in stock) and swapped it up and now that bad boy fires and idles pretty decent. also fixed the ps leak, all i need to do now is figure out how to stop the oil leak. Once again, i advise everyone to just get a full h22 motor and not do this project. in the h23 block there is a grove that is exposed, and the h22 does not fully cover nor avoids the grove. well when the car is running it doesnt leak, but as soon as it cuts out the grove fills up. i'm going to use some rtv and seal that bad boy up, hopefully it works. and after that all i need is the p28 ecu and it should be running damn near perfect maybe then i'll think about doing the turbo stuff all over again. oh plus i took off my golden eagle plate, it was getting to be to much of a hassle since i couldnt fit a real filter there, and the oil leak just made me paranoid of the oil filter relocation
     
  16. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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  17. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    hey tab, you think if i made another post showing stages i went through (although alot is excluded) the moderators will allow it? because i just took some pictures of the lude while its running. but if they dont want me to i can just post it in this section
     
  18. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    Myself and Chris are the moderators in this section. Now, unlike many others, your engine build IS swap related. From H22 and H23 parts. I will allow it, and I doubt Chris(dohcvtec_accord) will move or delete it.
     
  19. dohcvtec_accord

    dohcvtec_accord WRX Sellout

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    I'm gonna move it, then delete it, just to prove tab wrong. :lol:
     
  20. DesertNightEagle

    DesertNightEagle Senior Member

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    i found my old post so once i finish uploading my pics i'll post them there
     
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