Car will not start after swap

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turbolsvt

New Member
Here is my problem, my car will no start after i did a swap. The car is not getting spark and fuel. The car is turning over and the injector clips are getting 12v power but not noiding. The ecu is powering up and i am getting power to the coil. I have swap out the coil, bought a new distributor(which came with a ignitor) and swapped out the ecu for a stock p28 (the other p28 has hondata s300) with no luck of getting spark and getting the injector to noid. . The car is for the most part a full race car so the heater motor, windshield wiper motors and heater controlls have been removed and i have done a mild wire tuck (the only wires i cut was to the headlights which still work) and the battery has been relocated o the back of the car.

Does this sound like a ground problem? Is there any other major grounding points on or in the car besides the thermastat housing ground? I am open for any ideas!
 
Here is my problem, my car will no start after i did a swap. The car is not getting spark and fuel. The car is turning over and the injector clips are getting 12v power but not noiding. The ecu is powering up and i am getting power to the coil. I have swap out the coil, bought a new distributor(which came with a ignitor) and swapped out the ecu for a stock p28 (the other p28 has hondata s300) with no luck of getting spark and getting the injector to noid. . The car is for the most part a full race car so the heater motor, windshield wiper motors and heater controlls have been removed and i have done a mild wire tuck (the only wires i cut was to the headlights which still work) and the battery has been relocated o the back of the car.

Does this sound like a ground problem? Is there any other major grounding points on or in the car besides the thermastat housing ground? I am open for any ideas!
Sounds like a ground problem to me. The other grounding points are the tranny and valve cover bolt.
 
They way the injectors work is they are fed 12 volts always with the ignition switched on, but they don't open until the ECU grounds them to momentarily complete the circuit. For that to happen, the ECU must itself be grounded AND it must get a trigger signal from the timing sensors. If you have a pinout for your ECU, test the grounds with a multimeter. Even though the injector ground is isolated back to the ECU, the sensors it relies on for timing signals, I believe, ground on the engine. Try a jumper cable from the cam cover to a body ground point to supplement engine grounds. Are all the sensors hooked up and working? I'm a little vague on how the distributor interacts with the timing sensors as I'm not a Honda guy, but the width of the contact on the rotor makes me think the distributor is not dumb and also relies on timing sensors (cam and crank??) to to trigger and vary ignition timing.

Did I mention timing sensors?

How do you know the ecu is powering up? Are you getting the CEL light when you switch the ignition to RUN or ON or whatever Honda calls it? Usually, the ECU switches grounds to trigger the injectors or ignition, so positive power to these components doesn't mean your ecu is powering up. A functioning CEL, though, does.
 
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