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car wont start after puting turbo on...

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by evo8, May 11, 2006.

  1. evo8

    evo8 Senior Member

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    ok, this is my setup

    95 civic with a 94 GSR with a chipped P28
    t3.t04e
    JRC Intercooler
    Greddy BOV
    Tial WG
    Love Fab Mani
    My own DP
    450cc injectors with dsm resistor box.
    Using Jeffs(final.bin) as a basemap from http://www.xenocron.com/ that i stumbled upon.

    i just put my feed on today along with my injectors and resistor box. now, i used a multimeter to find out what wires went to my injectors... and i pluged up the white wire off of the resistor box(1 out of 5 wires) to the wires leading to the dead end connector and i wired the other 4 black wires to the ones going to my injectors... did i do this right??

    also, i am using a BURN1 Moates burner and i have programmed my chip. i followed the instructions on how to install it, its on COM2, everything was right, i programmed it, then tested it and it said that the chip was succesfull, then i did a blank test, and it said it was not blank.

    so i dont think it is a bad chip/burn, but it might be. but maybe something is wrong iwth my wiring too

    HELP ME!!!!

    thanks for reading this loooong thread

    -Mike
     
  2. kyleirwin

    kyleirwin Retired OG

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    what chip are you using? if it's an sst 27sf512, make sure that the chip offset is set to 008000.
     
  3. evo8

    evo8 Senior Member

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    no im using a AT29c259 i beleive. im at school right now and cant remember the exact numbers. i have it set to 007FFF for my offset i beleive also.

    thanks
     
  4. DelSlo

    DelSlo Senior Member

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    i dont full understand your description of wiring in your resistor box. there is a junction connector with a cap on the drivers shock tower, pull the cap off and check which wire has CONSTANT POWER. only 1 wire will have constant power and then 4 of the others are your 4 power wires going to your injectors. so pull the cap and see what terminal has battery voltage at it. when you find it, TAP INTO, do not cut, but tap in to that wire whatever way you like. this is your power wire to your resistor box. (red wire on resistor box.) the other 4 black wires go to your injectors. in that junction connector you have to test for continuity to find what wires go to your injectors, (the others go to TPS , MAP etc) so find what 4 wires in that junction go to your inectors, you can cut those and solder the 4 black wires onto them. voila done, protect any open wires, and go. basically that big connector with all yellow and black wires on it is just one big power distribution. 1 power wire in, and then its spread to about 8 other wires.


    and for your no start, check that stuff first, but also, do you have a solid cell, does the fuel pump kick on when the key is cycled?? does the engine crank, is there spark??


    you can check your resistor box. although the injectors will still fire even if your resistor box wasnt hooked up, you can still check it for resistance, unplug it, touch one test lead to the red wire and then move the other to each of hte 4 black and see if the resistance is the same on all, if i remember right it was like 6.5 ohms or something around that, dont quote me though. id suggest checking that first, cause although the injectors will fire and work without the Res. box, it will fry your ECU when you put in a res box. (i know from experience lol) also check the chip in the BURN 1 is facing the right way and you left the 4 empty pins on the proper side. if you have the atmel chip try reburning a few different times. phhhew that was alot of typing
     
  5. boostedz6

    boostedz6 Junior Member

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    make sure you have the chip in the proper location on the burn one. It should be furthest away from the lever and the half moon is facing the lever.

    [​IMG]
     
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