cheap and good del sol mods,help?

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no body said that i was the one with the money and and to let you know mr. know it all my daily is a 325i and the honda that i drive is a drag car hints the user name drg_eg. did someone get butt hurt cause they were proved wrong....;) come again

You've proved nothing here. I still fail to see the point of your first post...other then as an opportunity for you to say you proved a senior member wrong...
 
You've proved nothing here. I still fail to see the point of your first post...other then as an opportunity for you to say you proved a senior member wrong...

the point to prove here are there are such thing as cheap but good bolt ons..depending on your budget determines the quality of the product you get

example: a ford pinto bought by a not so wealthy consumer is high quality
a lambo bought by a very wealthy consumer is high quality

in this case the kid is on about $500 a month budget so a few knock off bolt on may be good quality to him.
 
the point to prove here are there are such thing as cheap but good bolt ons..depending on your budget determines the quality of the product you get

example: a ford pinto bought by a not so wealthy consumer is high quality
a lambo bought by a very wealthy consumer is high quality

in this case the kid is on about $500 a month budget so a few knock off bolt on may be good quality to him.
I firmly disagree.

intake on a d16z6=1-3whp. good or ebay, it's still a waste of money. header, good or ebay might get 3-5 whp. exhaust, maybe another 2-5whp.

$500 will buy some kick ass brakes and a good set of springs or a used suspension. I guarantee brakes and suspension will help someone go faster than wasting money on i/h/e for a d16.

unless you crack open the block and head, d16 bolts ons are a waste.
 
the point to prove here are there are such thing as cheap but good bolt ons..depending on your budget determines the quality of the product you get

example: a ford pinto bought by a not so wealthy consumer is high quality
a lambo bought by a very wealthy consumer is high quality

in this case the kid is on about $500 a month budget so a few knock off bolt on may be good quality to him.

Stop. Just stop. You're trying to come off as intellectual here, but it's not working. Your analogy is crap. A Ford Pinto is NOT a quality automobile, ever. It's a cheap, POS car. A person of low income may VALUE a Ford Pinto simply because it's an automobile they can afford, but that doesn't mean that it has high quality. It's not the same thing.

Same principle applies to the case of the OP here. Perhaps he would enjoy having a cheap E-Bay intake and fart can, but that doesn't mean those parts are "quality" in any way, and the actual power gains would be extremely minimal. This is why I, along with others, suggested that he instead spend his money on a decent suspension set up, because it will add more value then a raspy muffler will...
 
dont worry chris i neg repped the clown above me.



Come on bro you didnt answer his question AT ALL

I, quite literally, wish I could meet you, solely in order to kick you in the balls for being such a magnificent tool.

First, I couldnt give a rat’s ass about your "rep" or anyone else’s for that matter.

Secondly, what I just said is some of the best "advice" given to this kid so far. Want some better advice? Go spend the money you were going to try and make 6WHP with by buying cheap bolt-ons, and instead take some defensive driving classes. Learning how to properly drive your car on the street and at the track will benefit him WAY more than a fart can, filter on a stick and/or a header which will rust out before Obama's first term is half way over.

Whats more, the OP said he wants cheap mods to make the car "faster", not "sound faster", as you put it. Sorry, but I/H/E, hes not going to be any "faster". Hell, he won’t even be any less slow. The best he can hope for is to read the "reported gains" on the boxes in which the parts come in and have some sort of placebo/stage 2 wallet weight reduction effect. Let's not forget that the only sound these bolt-ons are going to make while attached to a stock D16 is that of utter rice.

Regardless, however, in reality all this is going to do (as I, and others have already said in this thread), is attract unwanted attention by thieves, cops, and people with "real" cars who will proceed to make fun of him.

Ill make it easier for you, since you obviously have some sort of mental retardation going on...

Read: Baring him buying and installing a cheap used nitrous kit, hes not making his car "faster" in ANY significant form by throwing eBay BPUs at this SOHC Del Slow. And I don't have the time or effort to explain how adding a used nitrous kit into the mix would be the worst idea of the century in this kid's case.

Furthermore, the OP also said that he wants to make his car "look cooler". Since you stated that I "didnt answer his questions at ALL", it appears that you need to take some reading comprehension classes. I suggested that he put an OEM hood back on the car while swapping the rims out for some OEM Honda rollers. This can be done for little to no money on his part by simply trading his current parts with someone who has OEM pieces and/or by buying very cost effective used OEM units and recouping the loss (and perhaps then some) by selling said ricer parts...

... and... like... OMG... those parts will actually be lighter and will make his car (all be it insignificantly) FASTER!

Last but not least, the OP also said that he is "open to all suggestions."

MY suggestion is to slow the fawk down. He is a 15 year old kid. I remember how I was when I was 15, how my friends were, how my brother was, and so on. Yes, I’ve walked the walk and I can now talk the talk. It would be MUCH better for him to keep the car as close to stock as possible in this case for many reasons. Let’s go over a few of them...

1) Safety. Both for him, anyone driving in his vicinity, and anyone he crams into the passenger seat. It’s pure fact that (especially male) kids at this age tend to drive like assholes at least some of the time if not most of the time. Not everyone, but a LOT of them... especially the ones who wish they had faster cars and are into modifying them.

The faster the car, the more they drive like one. I am very glad that I had a stock 1991 4cyl automatic Camry for my first car. I had that from the age of 15-17 and I learned a LOT about driving, car repair, actual costs of ownership, and responsability with it. I also know that if I had anything faster (and believe me, I WANTED something faster), I would have gotten into WAY more trouble than the handful (read: 2) speeding tickets that I ended up with.

In any case, a stock D16 del sol is a perfectly fine car (all be it a bit too tin-can-ish, at least I'd think so if he was my kid) for someone his age.

2) He has some part time, near minimal wage job. He doesn’t have the resources to really build a decent ride out of this car with those resources. I've had friends in this situation. They got 2 jobs and saved forever to do stuff to polish their turds. Their school suffered big time because of the split in attention between work, the car, and school. To top it off, even after wasting all that time and money on their cars, they were STILL 15-16 second FWD Hondas. NO ONE that I know who did this in HS was happy with their decision unless mommy and daddy paid for everything.

3. Without FI, nitrous, and/or an engine swap this car will never be "not so slow" (you can forget "fast"). Once again, it would be a complete waste of money to try and "make it fast" by doing so "on the cheap". Given this kids posts, I HIGHLY doubt he is going to have the thousands of dollars and countless hours (not to mention the skills) to get this done any time soon.

4. When/if this kid finally does graduate HS, he will most likely have outgrown this car. He will probably want to move on to better things, having learned a lot, matured, and figured out whats really important (read: performance and RELIABILITY and not "looking cool"). Hes not going to exactly be bringing UP the resale value of this car by adding a pep boys special exhaust and eBay intake. Basically all the money put into the vehicle will be wasted (even more so) at that point.

5. Again reliability. At this point in his life, I am sure that having a running car is more important than having one which is "fast" but doesn’t work 3/4 of the time and/or which looks cool yet only does so while sitting motionless in his front yard due to mechanical issues. Owning a car is a very expensive ordeal in terms of maintaining it, repairs, insurance, GAS, tickets, etc. And since he obviously has a very low paying part time job, keeping up with these things even on a perfectly stock car is going to be a strain.

So, in order to get it into your myopic pea brain, let me put it in another way:

IT IS IN HIS BEST INTERESTS TO KEEP THIS CAR IN A BASICALLY STOCK FORM.

Now that I’m done with the Mensa member who likes to play with his "rep", let me further educate the OP a bit:

Take it from someone with a LOT more experience then you in both life and in cars.

1. Put that hood back to stock.

2. Trade the rims in for some nice 15 or 16" Honda or Acura rims. Some 99-00 SI or GS-R rims would be ideal. They are low key, of very good quality, look great, and dont cost a lot. You could probably even get a straight trade for them from someone who wants the ones your car came with.

3. Get some driving lesions. I dont mean the kind you get before going to the DMV to take your driver's test either. That’s a joke. I’m talking about going to a track (or a large parking lot set up as a track) and running the course with a professional instructor in the car. Do both defensive driving and track duty driving. This will not only allow you to actually drive the car well, but it may also very well save your (and others) life some day. Plus it’s a shit ton of fun. You wouldn’t believe how much faster you can go around, say, an auto-x track with proper instruction and experience under your belt. I can bet you a million dollars that a professional driver using your car can and will get a better lap time then you driving a fully track prepped Ferrari F50. There is a very good reason for this.

4. If you HAVE to modify your car (and yes, I know how it is... you REALLY want to modify your car, become a baller, impress your little friends, etc.) then do the suspension, brakes, and tires...

...TIRES FIRST. Your tires are the MOST important "mod" on your car. These should be the ONLY part of the car touching the ground at any one point in time. They have everything to do with how well you accelerate, corner, and stop. They hold court in terms of life and death in emergency situations. GET GOOD TIRES. Do the research; ask the question, and DONT SKIMP. Get the best damn tires you can afford. Make sure they work for your climate too. If it rains a LOT and or snows, DONT get an all out "summer tire". Most people in forums and places like The TireRack.com can help you make this decision.

AFTER you get those tires, work on the suspension and brakes. Your car weighs jack-all, so dont worry about "big brake kits" and other expensive BS. As far as brakes are concerned, get some stainless steel braided brake lines, high quality STREET brake pads (DO NOT get the "track only" brake pads, they take a LOT of heat to warm up and are NOT good for a daily driver). Something like the Porterfield R4S or the Hawk HPS brake pads are perfect. Then add quality brake fluid. Use Motul RBF 600 brake fluid. If it’s good for a Porsche 911 turbo, it’s good enough for you. Also, SCREW drilled and slotted rotors! Yes, you might think they look cool, but unless you plan on buying really expensive units (the kind which cast the rotors with the x-drilling in them from the factory), they tend to CRACK and SPLIT. For your application they aren’t going to do ANYTHING for you performance wise either. These are designed to eliminate heat faster, but your little ass car, driven on the streets, at the speeds it’s capable of, DO NOT BUILD UP THAT MUCH HEAT. So GET BLANK OEM STYLE DISKS.

Of course, if your car has rear drum brakes, you may want to look into getting a rear disk conversion. This is very easy and cheap to do as long as you stick with OEM parts off of a Honda platform which uses rear disks and the same lug pattern.

Then get on the suspension bits. You DO NOT need "real" coilovers. Expensive and too much for you performance wise. Get some decent shocks such as Koni Yellows, and a decent set of springs such as the Eibach Pro-Kit springs. Dont bother trying to "SLAM" your car. 99.999% of the time, people do this because it looks "cool" and THINK it’s better for performance. BULL. Without a ton of supplemental mods it will throw your suspension geometry out of whack and will RUIN your handling. You want a spring kit which will lower your car by 0.8-1.2" at most. This is why I suggest the Eibach Pro-Kits. They will eliminate the fender gap, making it look really nice, but won’t drop it so much as to ruin the stock suspension geometry and/or to throw the camber/toe of your car out of whack. That last bit will EAT UP YOUR TIRES LIKE NO OTHER. You will go through tires faster than a junkie goes through smack... and thats if you are babying the car around, not burning out or cornering hard or ANYTHING.

So one more time:

Cliff's Notes:

*Put the car back to its OEM look. That hood smacks of rice.
*Get some Honda/Acura 15-16" rims
*GET GOOD TIRES
*Brakes. Better pads, SS lines, and quality fluid. More than enough.
*Suspension. Quality shocks/struts and quality springs. DO *NOT* "SLAM" IT!

*ABOVE ALL, GET SOME DRIVING LESSIONS AND TRACK TIME.

Oh, and Austin; You’re a huge douche bag. "Fail" needs to be redefined to read "the time at which Austin's father's condom broke".

Now sit down. The big boys are talking.

EDIT: And one more thing to the OP. If you REALLY REALLY REALLY want your car to sound "faster/meaner/better", just stick an intake on it. Keep it a short ram intake (SRI). That, with a stock exhaust, is the ONLY way to keep your car from sounding like a frozen dog turd slow ricer POS being chased down the street by a plethora of Africanized bees. Any brand will be fine, just make sure it come with an quality conical air filter such as a K&N so you can clean and oil it.

And, NO, its not going to make your car any "faster", but you MAY get a little better MPG and it WILL sound "sportier" without sounding ricey. Be fore warned though, you put an exhaust on that car, and I promise that the people looking in your direction as you drive by aren't looking for good reasons. And yes, they will be laughing AT you and not WITH you.
 
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I quite literally wish I could meet you, solely in order to kick you in the balls for being such a magnificent tool.

that is the coolest thing I've seen all day!

listen to these guys they know there stuff besides it's your first car so yea you will most likely out grow it or wreck it ( my first car is a cube :D)
just keep it simple thats my advice
 
holy crap MisterMister.... could of have posted a longer post?

lol anyways. this thread is becoming a bash fest.

To: OP
Do what makes you happy with your car. If you love the fart can on the car that is falling off. congrats. your the one who drives it. So build it how you like it. If you want to throw on as many mods they make for that d series. well its your money, your pride, your joy. Good luck with that build kid.
 
I, quite literally, wish I could meet you, solely in order to kick you in the balls for being such a magnificent tool.
You just wasted 2 hours of your life + the 5 minutes it just took me to backspace over 250 lines of blah. If only people like you were this responsive to peoples needs in tech posts....
 
You just wasted 2 hours of your life + the 5 minutes it just took me to backspace over 250 lines of blah. If only people like you were this responsive to peoples needs in tech posts....

Ever heard of highlighting and the delete button? But anyways I see this thread being locked as noone is answering the kid's question anymore and he himself is not even responding.

I agree that no bolt-ons are going to help the cause and also suggest buying a nice set of springs and struts, or saving to get coilovers. Smaller, lightweight 15" wheels would help out more than an intake and exhaust. Good luck.
 
Really no one is answering his question? Or No one is actually reading the replies? You decide.

1. Put that hood back to stock.

2. Trade the rims in for some nice 15 or 16" Honda or Acura rims. Some 99-00 SI or GS-R rims would be ideal. They are low key, of very good quality, look great, and dont cost a lot. You could probably even get a straight trade for them from someone who wants the ones your car came with.

3. Get some driving lesions. I dont mean the kind you get before going to the DMV to take your driver's test either. That’s a joke. I’m talking about going to a track (or a large parking lot set up as a track) and running the course with a professional instructor in the car. Do both defensive driving and track duty driving. This will not only allow you to actually drive the car well, but it may also very well save your (and others) life some day. Plus it’s a shit ton of fun. You wouldn’t believe how much faster you can go around, say, an auto-x track with proper instruction and experience under your belt. I can bet you a million dollars that a professional driver using your car can and will get a better lap time then you driving a fully track prepped Ferrari F50. There is a very good reason for this.

4. If you HAVE to modify your car (and yes, I know how it is... you REALLY want to modify your car, become a baller, impress your little friends, etc.) then do the suspension, brakes, and tires...

...TIRES FIRST. Your tires are the MOST important "mod" on your car. These should be the ONLY part of the car touching the ground at any one point in time. They have everything to do with how well you accelerate, corner, and stop. They hold court in terms of life and death in emergency situations. GET GOOD TIRES. Do the research; ask the question, and DONT SKIMP. Get the best damn tires you can afford. Make sure they work for your climate too. If it rains a LOT and or snows, DONT get an all out "summer tire". Most people in forums and places like The TireRack.com can help you make this decision.

AFTER you get those tires, work on the suspension and brakes. Your car weighs jack-all, so dont worry about "big brake kits" and other expensive BS. As far as brakes are concerned, get some stainless steel braided brake lines, high quality STREET brake pads (DO NOT get the "track only" brake pads, they take a LOT of heat to warm up and are NOT good for a daily driver). Something like the Porterfield R4S or the Hawk HPS brake pads are perfect. Then add quality brake fluid. Use Motul RBF 600 brake fluid. If it’s good for a Porsche 911 turbo, it’s good enough for you. Also, SCREW drilled and slotted rotors! Yes, you might think they look cool, but unless you plan on buying really expensive units (the kind which cast the rotors with the x-drilling in them from the factory), they tend to CRACK and SPLIT. For your application they aren’t going to do ANYTHING for you performance wise either. These are designed to eliminate heat faster, but your little ass car, driven on the streets, at the speeds it’s capable of, DO NOT BUILD UP THAT MUCH HEAT. So GET BLANK OEM STYLE DISKS.

Of course, if your car has rear drum brakes, you may want to look into getting a rear disk conversion. This is very easy and cheap to do as long as you stick with OEM parts off of a Honda platform which uses rear disks and the same lug pattern.

Then get on the suspension bits. You DO NOT need "real" coilovers. Expensive and too much for you performance wise. Get some decent shocks such as Koni Yellows, and a decent set of springs such as the Eibach Pro-Kit springs. Dont bother trying to "SLAM" your car. 99.999% of the time, people do this because it looks "cool" and THINK it’s better for performance. BULL. Without a ton of supplemental mods it will throw your suspension geometry out of whack and will RUIN your handling. You want a spring kit which will lower your car by 0.8-1.2" at most. This is why I suggest the Eibach Pro-Kits. They will eliminate the fender gap, making it look really nice, but won’t drop it so much as to ruin the stock suspension geometry and/or to throw the camber/toe of your car out of whack. That last bit will EAT UP YOUR TIRES LIKE NO OTHER. You will go through tires faster than a junkie goes through smack... and thats if you are babying the car around, not burning out or cornering hard or ANYTHING.

So one more time:

Cliff's Notes:

*Put the car back to its OEM look. That hood smacks of rice.
*Get some Honda/Acura 15-16" rims
*GET GOOD TIRES
*Brakes. Better pads, SS lines, and quality fluid. More than enough.
*Suspension. Quality shocks/struts and quality springs. DO *NOT* "SLAM" IT!

*ABOVE ALL, GET SOME DRIVING LESSIONS AND TRACK TIME.

And one more thing to the OP. If you REALLY REALLY REALLY want your car to sound "faster/meaner/better", just stick an intake on it. Keep it a short ram intake (SRI). That, with a stock exhaust, is the ONLY way to keep your car from sounding like a frozen dog turd slow ricer POS being chased down the street by a plethora of Africanized bees. Any brand will be fine, just make sure it come with an quality conical air filter such as a K&N so you can clean and oil it.

And, NO, its not going to make your car any "faster", but you MAY get a little better MPG and it WILL sound "sportier" without sounding ricey. Be fore warned though, you put an exhaust on that car, and I promise that the people looking in your direction as you drive by aren't looking for good reasons. And yes, they will be laughing AT you and not WITH you.
 
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