Check engine light?

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FunForFree33

New Member
Hi. I bought a 95 civic ex and put a b18c in it. It won't rev past 3000 rpm and it has a miss. I think the light for the check engine dont work cause it's not on. Is there any other way I can check the codes Without taking the dash apart and replacing the bulb.
 
uhh, i cant remember if theres an obd1 code reader, but i think there is. ask your local autozone, they'll pull the codes for free if there is such a device

if not, your only choice is to get in the dash and replace the bulb. then jump the ecu and get the codes.
edit:
also, does the CEL come on when you turn the key to the on position at first? it should always cycle on/off with the fuel pump
 
I replaced the bulb and now the light is on. But I cant find the plug I need to jump. Near the pass kick panel is 2 blue plugs one has 2 wires one has 3 when I jump the 2 wire one the SRS blinks.. But I searched there is no more plugs. I dont know if maybe someone cut it off? Is there any other way to do it maybe by jumping the wires on the ecu?
 
Count the blinks man. Long blinks equal 10s short blinks equal ones. Example: Two long blinks, two short blinks = Code 22.
 
A friend of mine was having the same problem with the miss and not revving past 3 grand- it was his distributor...
 
Im gonna get a new one. Also when I turn the key to the on position the fuel pump runs but it doesnt shut off so I am guessing one of the injectors is staying open?
 
A 95 should have the standard OBD2 connector under the dash on the drivers side, assuming it wasnt moved or eliminated during the swap. Even though they are still OBD1, Honda was ahead of the game in crossing over, and had OBD2 connectors since 94. Again, assuming the swap was done correctly and not converted to OBD1, you should still be able to pull codes from there.

If the fuel pump is not shutting off, it has nothing to do with an injector sticking. It is supposed to prime the system when the key is turned on, and then shut off once prime is reached if the car is not started. Most likely guess would be the relay itself is no good. But your best bet would be to trace the schematic and test whatever is controlling the pump. It may be driven straight from the ECU, i forget...
 
A 95 should have the standard OBD2 connector under the dash on the drivers side, assuming it wasnt moved or eliminated during the swap. Even though they are still OBD1, Honda was ahead of the game in crossing over, and had OBD2 connectors since 94. Again, assuming the swap was done correctly and not converted to OBD1, you should still be able to pull codes from there.

If the fuel pump is not shutting off, it has nothing to do with an injector sticking. It is supposed to prime the system when the key is turned on, and then shut off once prime is reached if the car is not started. Most likely guess would be the relay itself is no good. But your best bet would be to trace the schematic and test whatever is controlling the pump. It may be driven straight from the ECU, i forget...

While it might be true some of the time, its not correct all the time. Not ALL 94-95 cars have the OBD2 connectors and has nothing to do with swapping. I was just inside a 94 civic this morning, replacing a heater core, and it was a USDM civic, and no OBD2 connector. Do not take this for fact.

Included in this is my 95 teg, which also doesnt not have an OBD2 connector and has the dual blue plug.
 
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