Civic CX engine advise.

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H

hatchback

Member
I'm thinking about different options in a 92 Civic CX.. (obd1)

I'd like to stick with the d series if possible. I have a spare d16a6 on hand. The rings in it are shot, but I could easily rebuild that motor because it is just sitting in the shop. I'd also like to keep my car OBD1. My questions are:

Is it difficult to change the d16a6 to obd1?

I'd also like to swap the head with a vtec head, looking at a z6 so I don't have to deal with changing the y8 to OBD1. And I'm also possibly going to go with a small turbo. Nothing more than 10psi for certain.

Another question is: Should I just put a z6 head on my d15 that is currently in the car, or would it be better to build the d16 block? When dealing with motors this small, I'd assume that every little bit of displacement helps, And I can't immagine the cx motor being tough enough to handle boost.
 
if you have an extra motor sitting around, rebuild it and go crazy with the cx motor, i have an extra cx motor i will give you if you blow up the one in the car now. go crazy with it what's it matter, it is a hunk of crap anyway.
 
Thanks, I appreciate your willingness to help, but that didn't answer much.

I'm working on the pretense that the CX motor is junk.. Which is why I'm thinking about rebuilding the d16a6. (91 crx si engine) and installing a z6 head/intake/tb/dizzy, etc... But that block is OBD0. I think I'll run into problems with the knock sensor being non-existant??? I think that setup will give somewhere around 130hp.. which is almost double that of the stock CX. I'd be happy with that.

I read that you can install a knock sensor... I'll have to do more research, I guess.
 
why waste all that time and money on an older mini me swap for 130 HP. just go buy a d15b and call it a day...

or a z6 for that matter and change the IM/TB setup and gain the same amount of HP with higher torque #'s
 
hybrid89 @ Oct 19 2005 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
why waste all that time and money on an older mini me swap for 130 HP. just go buy a d15b and call it a day...

or a z6 for that matter and change the IM/TB setup and gain the same amount of HP with higher torque #'s
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Because I would prefer a fresh motor over a used motor. And If I'm not mistaken, The A6 block is the same block as a z6/y8/whatever.. So might as well build it, as I already have it.
 
It is the same block, but a gen older..if it goes to a smog or state ref, they could make you pull it out due to it being older than the original chassis. Plus, I have always thought that a motor with half or less the miles of another motor, is a better starting platform to begin with. Do what you want, but if you are going to build up a block to put in your car, I would go get a z6, or y8 block with less wear and tear...they are a dime a dozen and the internals will cost you the same between A6/Z6/Y8
 
If you're not in California, the Z6 head onto the A6 will be fine. I don't think the Z6 ECU setup cares about a knock sensor. All you have to do to make the A6 block OBD1 is use all the OBD1 sensors, and if you're going to use a Z6 head and ECU, you've already got most of that taken care of.
 
the only thing thats diff on OBD0 and OBD1 cars is the O2 sensor, injectors and dizzy.

nothing on the A6 block itself will need to be changed to run it in OBD1 form. and the A6 block is diff from the Z6/Y8. it has steel/iron mains as opposed to the aluminum mains on the Z6/Y8 blocks which makes it a bit stronger.

id say build the A6 bottom and throw a Z6 or Y8 head on it (doesnt make a diff they will both work just as well). there is no knock sensor on any USDM D series so dont worry about knock sensors.
 
I was going to use an A6 for my 92cx, A6 bottom and Y8 head, My A6 block had all piston seize ( from rust ) because my storage was leaking water. It has stronger main. This is what I was going to do. A6 bottom. ZC pistons and Y8 head. But I got a small turbo from a drifter friend of mine, So. Found out the A6 was to far wasted, Got a Z6, installed new rod and crank bearings, Stock piston with new rings, block guard installed, Z6 head gasket, Y8 head, use Z6 timing belt, Use the Z6 cam gear, Use the Cx distrubtor (yes it bolts up).
Using the stock pistons on the A6 will have high compression, because the pistions are flat tops. May be good for all-motor. If your going to use turbo, may need to use Z6 or Z1 (VX pistons) to lower compression a bit. As for the y8 head I used the CX dist. and the IAC from the CX. OH your going to need a 92-95 EX, DX, or SI throttle body. And 92-95 vtec harness (P28), Just use the P28 comp . only the oil pressure will be pluged into the block. OH the thermostat housing from the CX will need to be used too.The fan switch is mounted there and a 4 wire o2 will be needed for the p28 comp. the air temp sensor from the 92-95 manifold will have nowhere to bolt to on the Y8 manifold, so i straped mine to the harness.
My set up, 95 delso throttle body and fire wall mounted map sensor (because of the turbo system)
Y8 manifold and head, 95 EX wiring harness 92 CX distrubtor, 96 prelude injectors, Z6 block with new bearings and piston rings. P28 computer, 4 wire o2 sensor, DX transmission and the stock CX axles.
Maybe one day I will build that high compression D motor. Hope you can use some of this info.
 
CoreyR @ Oct 23 2005 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
the only thing thats diff on OBD0 and OBD1 cars is the O2 sensor, injectors and dizzy.

nothing on the A6 block itself will need to be changed to run it in OBD1 form. and the A6 block is diff from the Z6/Y8. it has steel/iron mains as opposed to the aluminum mains on the Z6/Y8 blocks which makes it a bit stronger.

id say build the A6 bottom and throw a Z6 or Y8 head on it (doesnt make a diff they will both work just as well). there is no knock sensor on any USDM D series so dont worry about knock sensors.
Click to expand...



alternator makes a diff too. you can rewire it but the plugs are technically different, i just bought an obd 1 alternator to change from obd II to obd I
 
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